Choice of Medium Format film cameras

Which one?

  • Bronica Zenza with 75mm

    Votes: 2 20.0%
  • Pentax 645

    Votes: 3 30.0%
  • Hasselblad 503CX

    Votes: 5 50.0%

  • Total voters
    10

CraigBTE

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A very knowledgeable friend of mine is buying a camera for me in Korea, and over the weekend he scoped out a few for me. I'm looking for some advice and reasons on the following options.

Unfortunately I don't have exact model numbers, which I know is crucial, but comments on the systems overall and recommended models would still help.

The 3 options are

A) Bronica Zenza (not sure about model) with 75mm 2.8
$420

B) Pentax 645 (I'm hoping the NII) with similar lens
$550

Double the price

C) Hasselblad 503CX with awesome Zeiss 80mm
$1100

I could also get the Bronica with 2 lenses for about the same price as the Pentax.

What would you recommend and why?
 
Do you need a "system camer?" Because I'm a big fan of the fuji fixed-lens rangefinders (looking for the 6x7 version for myself now). They are easier to come by in asia, and in the $400-500 price range.

Kinda like a poor-mans Mamiya 7 (my recommendation if you are going to be spending $1000 on a camera)

700_f690.jpg
 
I recently got two bronicas, 4 backs, three lenses, two AEII prisms, a standard prism and a speed grip for $120 less than that.

Maybe your knowledgeable friend shouldn't hose you.
 
For me its between the hassy and the Pentax 645. I Like my Pentax 645 for the way it handles and the availability of lenses. It is a simple camera to operate. The hassy square negative never felt natural to me.

Things I like the Hasselblad over the pentax, removable back and viewfinder. The Pentax 645 doesnt have either.... it has a film insert instead of a back.

Also, the the digital Pentax 645 is the cheapest current model digital MF on the market right now at $9k usd brand new. It makes an upgrade path to digital using the same system more feasible in the near future. Digital backs for the Hassy are priced higher.
 
Quick Rules for making a decision for buying a camera:

1. The more money you spend, the "better" your kit.
2. "Better" may not mean better images. It may mean "better" features, brand name, or cosmetic appearance of the camera.
3. Your degree of poverty (or wealth) will thus determine where you want to be

The thing is, you can take excellent pictures with a 30 year old camera you got for a song off ebay, and you can take horrible pictures with a $100k camera if you don't know what you're doing. In the end, it's not about the camera it's about the photographer.

If you do some research on the different cameras you mention, you'll see these cameras may not all be the same.

The Hasselblad 503CX is, IIRC, fairly late model. This may explain the difference in price over the bronica.

Hasselblads also tend to go for a premium over other cameras because of their reputation. Rightfully or wrongly so, you'll pay more for a 'blad then for another camera.

With that said, a Hasselblad is more compact then some of its cousins. I bought a mamiya RZ67. I love it, but the thing is a beast. I paid less then the hassy, but it's bigger and bulkier.

The other thing to look at is how modular the system is. Pentax 645 IIRC doesn't have interchangeable backs. With teh hasselblad you can get a few backs, and switch between different film types. This can come in handy, and is definitely nice to have.

Lastly, if money is a concern you can find some really great deals if you take the time to search. Downright ugly mamiyas will still take great pictures. I have a Pentax I bought for about $100 USD inclusive 3 prime lenses (28mm, 50mm, 135mm) and I love the thing.

The bottom line is, if you just want to screw around with medium format and don't have a lot of money, go cheap (maybe even a roliflex or yashica). You'll still take pictures of much better quality then 35mm format -- digital or film.

If you have the money, get the best kit possible, but do your research in terms of features.

Do the Hasselblads and the Bronica use a waist level viewfinder? You might want to find out as it's a different way of shooting compared to a regular point and shoot.
 
Quick Rules for making a decision for buying a camera:

1. The more money you spend, the "better" your kit.
2. "Better" may not mean better images. It may mean "better" features, brand name, or cosmetic appearance of the camera.
3. Your degree of poverty (or wealth) will thus determine where you want to be

The thing is, you can take excellent pictures with a 30 year old camera you got for a song off ebay, and you can take horrible pictures with a $100k camera if you don't know what you're doing. In the end, it's not about the camera it's about the photographer.

If you do some research on the different cameras you mention, you'll see these cameras may not all be the same.

The Hasselblad 503CX is, IIRC, fairly late model. This may explain the difference in price over the bronica.

Hasselblads also tend to go for a premium over other cameras because of their reputation. Rightfully or wrongly so, you'll pay more for a 'blad then for another camera.

With that said, a Hasselblad is more compact then some of its cousins. I bought a mamiya RZ67. I love it, but the thing is a beast. I paid less then the hassy, but it's bigger and bulkier.

The other thing to look at is how modular the system is. Pentax 645 IIRC doesn't have interchangeable backs. With teh hasselblad you can get a few backs, and switch between different film types. This can come in handy, and is definitely nice to have.

Lastly, if money is a concern you can find some really great deals if you take the time to search. Downright ugly mamiyas will still take great pictures. I have a Pentax I bought for about $100 USD inclusive 3 prime lenses (28mm, 50mm, 135mm) and I love the thing.

The bottom line is, if you just want to screw around with medium format and don't have a lot of money, go cheap (maybe even a roliflex or yashica). You'll still take pictures of much better quality then 35mm format -- digital or film.

If you have the money, get the best kit possible, but do your research in terms of features.

Do the Hasselblads and the Bronica use a waist level viewfinder? You might want to find out as it's a different way of shooting compared to a regular point and shoot.

Couldn't agree more, i bought Hassy 501cm and RZ67II and even Fujica GSW690III [also 2 Holgas], out of all these i can choose Hasselblad as my favorite camera, but the problem is that it is the most one in my collection i have problem with focusing, but this will never stopping me to choose it over the others.
 
Couldn't agree more, i bought Hassy 501cm and RZ67II and even Fujica GSW690III [also 2 Holgas], out of all these i can choose Hasselblad as my favorite camera, but the problem is that it is the most one in my collection i have problem with focusing, but this will never stopping me to choose it over the others.


That's the one really big problem with a waist level finder... Before taking the plunge you really should try one out... Some people love them, but others hate them.

Also remember the bigger your format the shallower the depth of field.

So IIRC for 120 film you only have 2cm depth at f. 2.8 which makes focusing correctly much much much more difficult
 
Couldn't agree more, i bought Hassy 501cm and RZ67II and even Fujica GSW690III [also 2 Holgas], out of all these i can choose Hasselblad as my favorite camera, but the problem is that it is the most one in my collection i have problem with focusing, but this will never stopping me to choose it over the others.


That's the one really big problem with a waist level finder... Before taking the plunge you really should try one out... Some people love them, but others hate them.

Also remember the bigger your format the shallower the depth of field.

So IIRC for 120 film you only have 2cm depth at f. 2.8 which makes focusing correctly much much much more difficult

But i don't have this problem with my Mamiya RZ67 ProII, i use waist level finder with Mamiya RZ as well but not problem as Hasselblad, so how come? Also i have Fuji GSW690III also 120 format and it is larger film size than Hasselblad and Mamiya [6x9] and it is much easier than the Hasselblad and Mamiya [i think you will tell me it is because this camera is rangefinder which is different], but i really like the Mamiya WLF and it is brighter and more clear than Hasselblad, but the weight of Mamiya is damn crazy.
 
Couldn't agree more, i bought Hassy 501cm and RZ67II and even Fujica GSW690III [also 2 Holgas], out of all these i can choose Hasselblad as my favorite camera, but the problem is that it is the most one in my collection i have problem with focusing, but this will never stopping me to choose it over the others.


That's the one really big problem with a waist level finder... Before taking the plunge you really should try one out... Some people love them, but others hate them.

Also remember the bigger your format the shallower the depth of field.

So IIRC for 120 film you only have 2cm depth at f. 2.8 which makes focusing correctly much much much more difficult

But i don't have this problem with my Mamiya RZ67 ProII, i use waist level finder with Mamiya RZ as well but not problem as Hasselblad, so how come? Also i have Fuji GSW690III also 120 format and it is larger film size than Hasselblad and Mamiya [6x9] and it is much easier than the Hasselblad and Mamiya [i think you will tell me it is because this camera is rangefinder which is different], but i really like the Mamiya WLF and it is brighter and more clear than Hasselblad, but the weight of Mamiya is damn crazy.

The thing with medium format film is that your depth of field is shallower when measured in inches / cm, then for 35mm at the same f stop.

So it's more important that you get spot on with the focusing.

Depending on your set up (do you have a microprism in your waistfinder and a magnifier) it may be easier or more difficult to focus.
 
No, the DOF is greater the larger you go format wise. It's figured by the focal length of the lens so 50mm on 35mm film is less than 50mm on say a 6X7.

If you want to talk about perspective and DOF you have a point but it's a different thing and mislabeling leads to problems down the road. :)
 
I am not talking about the depth of field, i am talking about focusing, if i use say 2.8 on a portraits, i can focus fine with my Mamiya RZ, but very difficult with my Hasselblad 501CM, i even love that Mamiya RZ67II finder because it gives me 3D look, while with Hasselblad finder it can do that but not bright and not clear so i need a lot of light around and in the scene and i even need to focus and refocus hundreds of time to be sure on one subject and many times i miss it, but with RZ i get about 96% spot on, Hasselblad about 70-80%, not talking about how the Depth of field will be or look like, and if you mean to calculate the distance, well, this is not always making it easy to know the exact distance and as i said if i choose say f2.8-f4 i may miss a bit because i measured the distance wrong and not accurate, so how can you focus with your Hasselblad 500 series?
 
I am not talking about the depth of field, i am talking about focusing, if i use say 2.8 on a portraits, i can focus fine with my Mamiya RZ, but very difficult with my Hasselblad 501CM, i even love that Mamiya RZ67II finder because it gives me 3D look, while with Hasselblad finder it can do that but not bright and not clear so i need a lot of light around and in the scene and i even need to focus and refocus hundreds of time to be sure on one subject and many times i miss it, but with RZ i get about 96% spot on, Hasselblad about 70-80%, not talking about how the Depth of field will be or look like, and if you mean to calculate the distance, well, this is not always making it easy to know the exact distance and as i said if i choose say f2.8-f4 i may miss a bit because i measured the distance wrong and not accurate, so how can you focus with your Hasselblad 500 series?

There is something in most film SLRs / medium format called a "focusing screen." They're designed to make it easier to tell if something is in focus. You might see a circle in the middle of the screen, and the two halves only line up if it's in focus, or something like this.

You may want a different focusing screen, or perhaps you're shooting without one.

Another poster might be able to give more detail on the different screens and their uses.
 

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