Dark areas with no tripod/flash

[TamiyaGuy]

Crank the ISO sensitivity as much as you can (in your case, it'll either be 1,600 or 3,200), brace yourself of a wall of bench, or failing that, stand very firmly, with your elbows by your waist and with one foot slightly in front of the other, hold your breath, and hope for the best .

BTW, I've tried that $1 image stabiliser (55p in my case), and it doesn't really work. IS also really helps.

 

[Mav]

Point and shoots can actually work surprisingly good in these situations. It's far easier to find something steady to park a P&S on and do a long exposure than it is an SLR. You could also try one of those bean bag mini SLR mounting things and try to set it someplace too. Depth of field isn't really as much of an issue in museums since chances are you'll be shooting flat targets. Sigma 30mm f/1.4 would probably work great for museum type shots, although it's still not very wide.

 

[nweissma]

@ asfixiate:

i'm curious how your vampire bat photos turned out -- can you post some?

my situation is similar: an oppossum snuck into my urban dwelling; he made himself comfortable in two places -- the living room and the kitchen (five days to get him out!)

my equipment was a Nikon F4s and a Nikon SB-24 autofocus speedlight -- pp. 64-65 of http://www.lensinc.net/manuals/SB24_user.PDF are relevant.

i wanted to take a picture of the possum in the kitchen but i don't understand how i could have focused in effectively no-light circumstances -- no dimmer switches: either the kitchen fluorescent light is on or it's off -- i don't understand how the SB-24's "AF Illuminator" facilitates the F4's auto-focusing.

 

[KmH]

It's been 4 years + since the thread died.

The member taking the Vampire bat photos last logged onto TPF 3.5 years ago - 02-20-2009

 

[Buckster]

When you can't take a tripod, Ultra-Pod II fits in your pocket or attaches to the camera and folds up under it so that it's like it's a part of it. The Velcro strap and sturdy wide legs are awesome. I've been using mine in oddball situations like that for years. I've even used it to support and steady the camera against my own chest when nothing else is available. Bonus: it's inexpensive.

Amazon.com: Pedco UltraPod II Lightweight Camera Tripod: Sports & Outdoors

Oops on the continuation of a necro. Oh well, maybe someone will find the info useful.

 

[KmH]

Yep, which is why I didn't close the thread.

 

[3Ddeath]

When using Semi-auto fuctions ill turn my Exposure compensation down a bit in order to get a bit of a darker image just to make sure the camera isn't trying to take in too much light and scraficing speed.

High ISO, even 3200 if I really have too.

F2.8 or lower if possible.

If the shutter speed is really low, under 1/30th take multiple shots of the same thing, 5 or 6 is usually good, odds are you'll shake less on at least one of them.

If u have lots of time, look at the images and zoom in on the camera to see if its clear.

 

[SCraig]

You just do what needs to be done. There are limits to what you have to use for focal length, shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. Some cameras do do well at high ISO and if you pass that point you might as well have skipped the shot. Pick the lowest you can get by with but stretch it to the limit. The aperture needs to be the minimum to handle the depth of field that you need, and no more. The shutter speed will then be dependent on what is needed for a proper exposure.

Also use the shortest focal length you can. The rule of thumb (not cast in stone law but only rule of thumb) for hand holding is the reciprocal of the focal length. 1/50 second for 50mm, 1/100 second for 100mm, etc. If you are using a crop-sensor camera then multiply it by 1.5 (Nikon) or 1.6 (Canon).

Also keep in mind that optical image stabilization (IS, VR, whatever you want to call it) usually allows one to shoot 2 to 3 stops slower than the rule of thumb, however it can also induce some blur. If you are using a tripod or other solid means of really stabilizing the camera then turn it off (or better yet try it both ways).

Get things set for the fastest shutter speed you can work out, and then it's up to you to stabilize the camera some how. The advice above is excellent and gives some great advice. Pick what works best in the particular situation.

 

[timputtick]

I also prefer to lower the shutter speed and keep ISO under 2000, I use the burst mode and hold as still as possible and hope. I wouldn't go slower than 1/25th though.

 

[rokvi]

I use the burst mode and hold as still as possible and hope.

As "spray and pray" as that sounds, its actually another good idea. Shoot around 3 at a time so that the action of your finger hitting the button doesn't cause shake on the second and third shots.