Default Shooting an event...ADVICE PLEASE!!

[Redeyejedi]

i am not certain if this is the correct place for this inquiry, however.....

i was asked to shoot an entertainment event at a local restaurant. i am going down there this evening around the same time as the event later this week; Thursday 8pm.
it will be indoors, mixed crowd of people, and some "big" names in the music and entertainment indusrty(or so i'm told).
i will be using my d300, sb900 flash. i plan to grab a flexi-reflector this afternoon, as i have mine loaned out. as for glass, i have a 50, 28, 18-200, 105macro, 70-300.
my questions are:
what prep work should i be doing?
what more gear should i acquire?
any glass i should buy/rent/borrow?
any tips for making a fun and successful evening?
any settings tips?
thanks in advance,
Aaron

 

[Robin Usagani]

Dude, I dont mean to be disrespect, but since you ask all of these questions, you are not ready for a gig like this. If I shoot this with your gear, I probably use the 28 all night long with bouncing the flash. Forget about getting a flash modifier. Just bounce it on the wall and the ceiling. Learn how to bounce the flash, and how to drag the shutter.

 

[Redeyejedi]

non taken.
i have to start somewhere, not new to shooting, just wanted to get and idea if im on the correct track and what i may be overlooking.
i am going to the restaurant tonight to get an idea of the space, size, color of walls, heights of ceiling..etc.
i can also have a second shooter there if i choose.
thanks for the prompt reply,
aaron

 

[2WheelPhoto]

Good luck

 

[Redeyejedi]

i understand about the ambient light and the lower shutter speeds, but with TTL, i have more options to control light, DOF, and graininess, right?
are you still shooting film?
and, i thought these communities where for support, not discouragement?

 

[tirediron]

One of the most important forms of encouragement this forum provides is the encouragement of new, or inexperienced photographers to get in above their heads. Do a few searches and compare the difference in replies to a question such as, "I'm shooting my first paid wedding tomorrow, will my 18-55 kit lens be okay?" versus, "My sister is getting married in a month and she can't afford a photographer. I would like to help her by taking some pictures, can you give me some advice?".

That said, prep work: You're already doing the most imporant piece of prep work, scouting the venue. Good for you. While you're there, talk to the staff, and first and foremost, ensure that you have the owner's permission to photograph. It wouldn't be the first time a party planner and booked a photographer to shoot a location that doesn't allow photography. Ask if the layout will change, and if they have any idea of who will be where. Ask if the lighting will change. Determine if the ceiling is suitable for bouncing a flash. A high open ceiling painted matte black isn't going to be terribly useful.

Make sure you have LOTS of batteries for both the flash and your camera. Make sure you're shooting on RAW+JPG. Know what the highest usable ISO on your body is, and decide what shooting mode (I would probably go with shutter-priority). Double check your gear to make sure it's clean and all the settings are correct.

Your lens collection isn't ideal for this sort of work. If the budget allows, I would try and rent a 17-55, or failing that a 24-70. The 18-200 is too slow, the 105 too long and the 70-300 too slow and too long. The 28 and the 50 are fine, but the flexibility of a zoom will make your life a LOT easier.

As well, if you can, I would borrow a second speedlight, a couple of triggers and a monopod. If you can, then push, pull or drag someone down to act as your helper. Mount the speedlight on the monopod with a trigger and have them stay about 30-40 degrees off to one side. This will provide MUCH better light.

Good luck.

 

[Derrel]

For shooting with the ambient stage lighting, crank the ISO up a bit, to at least 1,000 or 1,250,or maybe higher. Keep in mind that with stage lighting, there is often a HUGE disparity between the light on the singer/actors and the background of the stage or set...often the backgrounds are quite dark, darned near black, and the talent is lighted up pretty well with a spot light, or a fairly narrow type of flood...this causes the camera's in-built exposure metering to give suggested exposures that are often eight, ten, or even 12 stops OVER-EXPOSED for the talent, at least when using shorter focal length lenses like 28,35,50mm. So, be aware that the light meter's suggested readings will often be wayyyyyy off. If you are using a telephoto lens, like say your 105mm macro, and the subject is pretty large within the frame, then the chances of the light meter giving the right ballpark exposure go way, way up.

You need to keep in mind that it's better to get a noisy shot with good clear focus and motion stopped, than it is to come back with low-noise, but perfectly smeared, blurry,jerky,smeary shots made at ISO 200.

When shooting with the 28 or 50mm lenses from closer distances, if you are going to use an automated light metering setting, you might think about setting the exposure compensation to Minus 5.0 stops, if the subject is spot-lighted, and the stage is mostly dark....and even then, you might still be washing out the subjects. SO, maybe you'd want to go with manual metering, and set the camera at say ISO 1600, f/2.8 at 1/125 second, and if that's bright enough, stay there;;;if they switch on a brighter spot, click the shutter up to 1/200 or 1/250.

IF there is a decent line of sight, shooting from 15-25 rows back with a fast telephoto like a 105mm f/2.8 offers you the ability to maintain pretty easy focusing across the width of the stage.

 

[2WheelPhoto]

For shooting with the ambient stage lighting, crank the ISO up a bit, to at least 1,000 or 1,250,or maybe higher. Keep in mind that with stage lighting, there is often a HUGE disparity between the light on the singer/actors and the background of the stage or set...often the backgrounds are quite dark, darned near black, and the talent is lighted up pretty well with a spot light, or a fairly narrow type of flood...this causes the camera's in-built exposure metering to give suggested exposures that are often eight, ten, or even 12 stops OVER-EXPOSED for the talent, at least when using shorter focal length lenses like 28,35,50mm. So, be aware that the light meter's suggested readings will often be wayyyyyy off. If you are using a telephoto lens, like say your 105mm macro, and the subject is pretty large within the frame, then the chances of the light meter giving the right ballpark exposure go way, way up.

You need to keep in mind that it's better to get a noisy shot with good clear focus and motion stopped, than it is to come back with low-noise, but perfectly smeared, blurry,jerky,smeary shots made at ISO 200.

When shooting with the 28 or 50mm lenses from closer distances, if you are going to use an automated light metering setting, you might think about setting the exposure compensation to Minus 5.0 stops, if the subject is spot-lighted, and the stage is mostly dark....and even then, you might still be washing out the subjects. SO, maybe you'd want to go with manual metering, and set the camera at say ISO 1600, f/2.8 at 1/125 second, and if that's bright enough, stay there;;;if they switch on a brighter spot, click the shutter up to 1/200 or 1/250.

IF there is a decent line of sight, shooting from 15-25 rows back with a fast telephoto like a 105mm f/2.8 offers you the ability to maintain pretty easy focusing across the width of the stage.

Thanks for sharing that, I'm about to do my 1st attempt at shooting a show in ambient too. I plan to tote the 70-200. I'll crank the ISO and keep an eye on the metering happenings and the light on the exposures. I may even switch to spot metering to get close, but I suspect once I find a correct exposure and set the camera up to it on manual I should be able to rock on with minimal tweaking hopefully.

 

[KmH]

You don't mention how the photos will be used.

Being in California, you may also have a legal issue if there are indeed "some "big" names in the music and entertainment indusrty [sic] (or so i'm told)".

California has 'right of publicity' statutes I recommend you look into.

Someone else mentioned using bounce flash. That is fine if the surface you bounce the flash off of won't add an oddball color cast to the bounced light.

Bounced light also tends to give people raccoon eyes (dark eye sockets) unless you use a bounce card to direct some of the light straight forward.

 

[Redeyejedi]

thank you thank you thank you!
ISO 1600, f/2.8 at 1/125 was actually right around where i am going to start to preserve background and reduce motion. i am scouting this afternoon to find out exactly what was suggested about the venue; walls' colors and angles, ceiling height, color and if there are fixtures, recessed or floods and the light type/frequency...tungsten/florescent/incandescent etc. - will bring orange n green gels / adjust WB accordingly.

i definitely understand about "getting in over ones head". they weren't even planning on having the event shot at all, and it is quite last minute, hence why i am sorta 'cheating' beckoning on my fellow photogs for a starting point and perhaps anything i am not considering.

it is a party at a restaurant and not concert style event.

i am also going to meet the owner of the restaurant to get permission and get the layout of the party, get an idea of where tables will be, guests will be entering and where the guest of honor will be.

also, if i can, plan to return with someone and do a little preliminary testing.

 

[Redeyejedi]

the images will be for their end use and my portfolio.

30-40 degrees of my focal plane or subject plane? - forgive me if that question sounds dumb.

oops duhh, its the same spot! doh!

 

[tirediron]

the images will be for their end use and my portfolio.

30-40 degrees of my focal plane or subject plane? - forgive me if that question sounds dumb.

oops duhh, its the same spot! doh!

Assuming you are looking directly at the subject, have the light 30-40 off of lens axis.

 

[Redeyejedi]

thank you very much, i really do appreciate the help/advice on a starting point and will update with the constants i have to work with.
Aaron

 

[KmH]

the images will be for their end use and my portfolio.

...

It matters who 'they' are, and what the end use is, particularly in California.

 

[Redeyejedi]

the images will be for their end use and my portfolio....

It matters who 'they' are, and what the end use is, particularly in California.

Wait, so pooparazzi can shoot away at celebs in compromising situations or at private/intimate engagements, but I have to worry bout being asked to shoot a few producers n the like? Tmz, and the sinquirer can blast away at stars on the beach or the bistro, but lil'ol me has to worry?