Direct sunlight help

luvmyfamily

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Right before the sun sets doesn't work with everyones schedules. Tips on shooting in direct sunlight?? I spent all winter shooting indoors, now having trouble with outdoors in direct sunlight...not at dusk. ugg.
 
I think you are confusing direct sunlight with harsh mid day sun. You can shoot in direct sunlight anytime the sun is out. However I think you meant photographing during the day when the sun is high and harsh. You just need fill light to combat the raccoon eyes that happen when the sun is at it's highest. You can use off camera flash, portable moonlights, or reflectors. You can also try to shoot subjects on the edge of shade or create your own shade.

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Right before the sun sets doesn't work with everyones schedules. Tips on shooting in direct sunlight?? I spent all winter shooting indoors, now having trouble with outdoors in direct sunlight...not at dusk. ugg.
I obviously can't give you EXPERT advice, but using a reflector and appyling the Sunny 16 rule has helped me. Also, trying to avoid direct sunlight is usually best. What are yo trying to photograph?
 
Thanks, I thought about making my own "shade." Sunny 16 rule, googling it.....I should probably know this by now, but have had some personal issues going on and haven't picked up my camera in a while.
 
Thanks, I thought about making my own "shade." Sunny 16 rule, googling it.....I should probably know this by now, but have had some personal issues going on and haven't picked up my camera in a while.

Well pick it up QUICk photography is therapy. and you take lovely pictures ;-)

Sunny 16 can be googled or read up on Bryan Peterson
Sunny 16:
Apeture = F16
Shutter Speed = 1/100
IS 100
Digital camera help for beginners and beyond
 
When you get the chance. Check out lightenupsndshoot.com they shoot outside on location and have some great tips.
Here is how I shoot when the sun is harsh. Mostly it happens at weddings when you have to work around ceremonies and receptions.
I meter for the sky. My setting usually are around 1/100, f16 iOS 100. I then meter my off camera light (usually with a soft box) for the same setting. I can then changed my shutter speed faster or slower depending on how dark I want the background. I want the small aperture to get detail in the sky. I like the look. If I want a blurred background I open up the aperture to 5.6 and use my 70-200 or 135mm and up the shutter speed.

Once you get the hang of location shooting you will love it

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If you wish to decrease your DOF, try a ND filter, and you can use OCF in conjunction.
 
luvmyfamily said:
Mach, my dad is a great photographer and just told me on easter about an ND filter, thanks.

No worries. I am actually planning on getting a couple.
 
You find and use open shade, or you set up an overhead diffuser to make your own open shade. You can use reflectors or strobed light for fill/accent. Avoid dappled sunlight, it's about the worst light you can use.

With open shade the sky becomes your main light. You put your subject somewhat close to the sunlight/shade line. How close depends on what the sunlit ground is like, it's color and reflectivity.

With all blue sky you have to be careful your subject doesn't get a blue castbecuase they wer to close to the sun/shadow line. You also have to mindful of green color casts from tree leaves/grass, brown color casts from dirt, and unwanted light bouncing up off of concrete.

I liked using an overhead diffuser. I would then use strobes gelled to tungsten (CTO) for the exposure on the subject. and set the camera white balance to tungsten. That gives all the background ambient light a nice, light, cool blue cast that really compliments people's facial skin tone.

Don't forget sunrise. A lot of outdoor movie/TV scenes are shot near daybreak. There is usually a lot less wind in the morning, than at sunset. In the summer, mornings are cooler, the light is not quite so orangish because more particulate matter has settled out of the air during the night, because far fewer people are out doing things at night and like I said the winds tend to diminish at night.
 
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You find and use open shade, or you set up an overhead diffuser to make your own open shade. You can use reflectors or strobed light for fill/accent. Avoid dappled sunlight, it's about the worst light you can use.

With open shade the sky becomes your main light. You put your subject somewhat close to the sunlight/shade line. How close depends on what the sunlit ground is like, it's color and reflectivity.

With all blue sky you have to be careful your subject doesn't get a blue castbecuase they wer to close to the sun/shadow line. You also have to mindful of green color casts from tree leaves/grass, brown color casts from dirt, and unwanted light bouncing up off of concrete.

I liked using an overhead diffuser. I would then use strobes gelled to tungsten (CTO) for the exposure on the subject. and set the camera white balance to tungsten. That gives all the background ambient light a nice, light, cool blue cast that really compliments people's facial skin tone.

I like the overhead diffuser idea, but scary thought on setting the WB to tungsten outdoors? Worth a try, thank you. Will borrow one of my kids in the backyard, try one with WB in tungsten with overhead diffuser, and one without and see the difference.
 
I like the overhead diffuser idea, but scary thought on setting the WB to tungsten outdoors? Worth a try, thank you. Will borrow one of my kids in the backyard, try one with WB in tungsten with overhead diffuser, and one without and see the difference.

I hope you plan on using the rest of the suggestion and use a tungsten gelled flash if you are going to set your WB to tungsten.
 

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