Duplicating results from my old camera

jeveretts

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So last year my grand daughter had a dance recital. At the time I had a Nikon D3100 with the Nikon DX 55-200 lens (Non VR). I used the wizard built into the Nikon and got spectacular results. I have since sold that camera and I now have a Canon EOS 60D. The closest lens I have is a Canon 55-250 IS II. There is another recital, in the same auditorium, I am wondering if I can use the EXIF data, and copy the ISO and F-stop and Shutter speeds, and manually set them in my Canon and (hopefully) get similar results?

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Photography is about light. Do you know that the lighting is going to be the same???
 
So last year my grand daughter had a dance recital. At the time I had a Nikon D3100 with the Nikon DX 55-200 lens (Non VR). I used the wizard built into the Nikon and got spectacular results. I have since sold that camera and I now have a Canon EOS 60D. The closest lens I have is a Canon 55-250 IS II. There is another recital, in the same auditorium, I am wondering if I can use the EXIF data, and copy the ISO and F-stop and Shutter speeds, and manually set them in my Canon and (hopefully) get similar results?

Well you can certainly try the same settings but as gryphonslair points out...

Photography is about light. Do you know that the lighting is going to be the same???

So if the lighting is not the same then the same settings will not work.
 
Photography is about light. Do you know that the lighting is going to be the same???

I realize that. I am hoping it will be the same, that's why I mentioned it is at the same auditorium. But I guess they could switch things up. It is a hard shoot for me, since flash is not allowed, and it is pretty dark, and they are far away. You can see the results I got, I was pretty pleased. Everybody else with point and shoots and phones got horrible pictures without flash. I guess I could turn flash off, and go to the green box.
 
Looking at the original file, it looks like 1/320th second exposure, ISO-3200, and F 5.6. The focal length was 185mm.
 
An ISO setting of somewhere from 1600 to 2000, to 2400, to 3200 is probably going to be a good ISO level for a lens that drops to a max aperture of only f/5.6 at its longer focal lengths. Since the dancers are likely flood- or spot-lit, the 1/320 second exposure time seems reasonable, at f/5.6, at elevated ISO levels.

One thing that can fool a camera light meter is exceptionally dark, or light, backgrounds or curtains; in the case of a black curtain behind spot-lighted performers, the typical automatic camera metering result often results in OVER-ecposed performers, with the large expanse of blackness causing the light meter to suggest slooooooowing down the shutter, which over-exposed the lighter, flood-lighted or spot-lighted people in front of said black curtain.

WHen a long telephoto lens is used, and the picture angle is narrow, and the subjects are LARGE within the frame, that same tendency toward over-exposing the performers is lessened quite a bit. As the lens is zoomed shorter, and the background takes up more of the frame, the chance for wonky light metering kind of goes up.
 
An ISO setting of somewhere from 1600 to 2000, to 2400, to 3200 is probably going to be a good ISO level for a lens that drops to a max aperture of only f/5.6 at its longer focal lengths. Since the dancers are likely flood- or spot-lit, the 1/320 second exposure time seems reasonable, at f/5.6, at elevated ISO levels.

That lighting looks about 1/200 at f5.6, iso3200 to me, (i.e sunny 16 at f1.4, maybe f1); but without knowing whether iso3200 on a certain digital camera is accurately rated, it's hard to guess. And artificial light is often quite a bit 'weaker' than it can seem.
 
Hello sir,
you can actually copy the settings of your previous shots to your new dslr camera but don't expect much when it comes to the results that they would be
the same. for one, the design and image quality of both cameras and lens can impact your photo. It is often identified that canon has more color punch in it while
nikon is somewhat contrasty. Where you focus your lens will also create different results since it will try to calculate the exposures depending on the light that
hits your subject at the moment. Changing lights can also offer a challenge to your shots. So it's not a guarantee that it will have the same effect/results. Normally,
it affects how you set your ISO and aperture. For most low light conditions, you may want to increase your ISO but not too high to cause some noise and widen
your aperture to see if that will take you closer the way you want it to. White balance is also a factor here so adjust accordingly to your liking. Try to shoot in Av/aperture
mode as well as program mode if you're still unsure just to be sure you have a back-up photo of the moment. Just to add something to what other nice photographers have
already mentioned here. So good luck sir. :)

Regards,
 
Well... as stated in another thread, I read the manual on my new camera. No need now to duplicate the settings, I have a good idea what shutter speed I need to be at to avoid blurring, and since the light will be low, I will open the aperture up all the way. So all I really have to do is use the meter to make sure iso is on.. voila!
Sure, it sounds simple but we shall se.
 

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