Dynamic Range/Image Lightening - T6i

ratbatblue

TPF Noob!
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Central Texas
Can others edit my Photos
Photos OK to edit
First, my camera insists on turning a nice sky-at-dusk scene into a brightened spectacle. (That's in Program mode; if I use Auto, it wants to use the flash.) I guess that's the camera doing its job of working "well" in low light and I need to use Exposure Comp to counter it, in order to get anything close to what my eyes are seeing? Secondly, in trying to get a shot of a pleasant sunset sky, but keep some detail of our fence line for contrast, again using Program mode, the camera wants to make the darker area invisibly black. I've been reading up on dynamic range and I understand that this is generally a problem to be solved in photography. My concern is how to tell if I'm just asking too much of the camera and, no matter how much tinkering I do, I won't get that shot, or if this is me being green as grass and I simply have to read a lot and experiment. I guess I need to mention that I'm using the 18-55mm kit lens, which I'm sure isn't helping any. But it's the camera's sensor that dictates its dynamic range abilities, right?
 
First, my camera insists on turning a nice sky-at-dusk scene into a brightened spectacle. (That's in Program mode; if I use Auto, it wants to use the flash.) I guess that's the camera doing its job of working "well" in low light and I need to use Exposure Comp to counter it, in order to get anything close to what my eyes are seeing? Secondly, in trying to get a shot of a pleasant sunset sky, but keep some detail of our fence line for contrast, again using Program mode, the camera wants to make the darker area invisibly black. I've been reading up on dynamic range and I understand that this is generally a problem to be solved in photography. My concern is how to tell if I'm just asking too much of the camera and, no matter how much tinkering I do, I won't get that shot, or if this is me being green as grass and I simply have to read a lot and experiment. I guess I need to mention that I'm using the 18-55mm kit lens, which I'm sure isn't helping any. But it's the camera's sensor that dictates its dynamic range abilities, right?

Yes, the camera sensor is the final arbiter of the camera's dynamic range. If the tinkering that you're doing is limited to the controls on the camera then odds are you're asking too much. Your camera has some fundamental limitations built-in that govern the camera's ability to generate a finished JPEG photo. Have you looked into using your camera's raw (CR2) files?

Some reading: class_notes

Joe
 
It's not the lens.

Yes, the excellent dynamic range is something that you would need to work around to get what you see.

Options:

Faster shutter speed.

Heavy on the negative EC.

Install a graduated "neutral density" filter. (I rebel against the commonly-used name of that filter) (explanation; What is neutral is the color, and the density is what keeps the light out.) Of course, I'm the only one (AFIK) who has pointed that out.
 
Last edited:
Designer is referring to the graduated neutral density filter...there are hard-edged versions of this, and soft-edge versions; The graduated ND is different from the simple neutral density filter, which is uniformly dark across the entire filter. The graduated ND filer is dark on one edge, then fades to clear, in either a wide,slow fade (ie, a "soft edge" transition) or a hard-edge fade.

Look on-line for articles or videos showing how the graduated neutral density filter can be used in landscape photography. Square types of this are commonly used, along with a slotted, front-mounted filter holder system that allows you to rotate the dark area and/or to slide the filter upwardly or downwardly, to get the right final effect in the photo.

MOST in-camera meters will tend to OVER-brighten night and twilight shots; these can often be darkened in software, later.
 
Last edited:
(That's in Program mode; if I use Auto, it wants to use the flash.)
Your camera is doing exactly what it was programmed to do in the auto or any other program mode. Get the best exposure it can. It has no idea what you want it to to.
So now where do we go from here?

1. Put down the camera Read the manual.

2. Pick up the camera, read the manual and follow along with the camera.

3. Now that you understand how the camera works. Read up on how to get good exposure, Exposure triangle etc.

4. Experiment with what you have learned.

You should be able to accomplish this in a couple of days. You will be much happier with the results.
You could also post one of the photos with the settings and we may be able to help but there is no real shortcut for learning the gear.
 
Designer is referring to the graduated neutral density filter...
Thanks, Derrel. Yes, I should have said "graduated" in the case of getting two dissimilar areas of brightness exposed correctly.
 
Something you can do without buying anything is to take a photo exposed for the fence, and one exposed for the sky. Then combine them in post processing. What your really wanting is an HDR picture. If your not familiar with HDR you might want to look it up. It can be done with the equipment you have. I don't know your camera, you may have to come out of Program and Auto modes to do it though. And you will want to come out of a Matrix metering (nikon term) and use like a center weighted metering. If you don't have photoshop or a version. There is a free processing program called GIMP. Use that to merge the photos into a single one. In true HDR you will take a whole range of pictures from way under exposed to way over exposed. But you will get a final picture I believe you desire.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top