first attempt at finding open shade...thoughts?

[paigew]

I took this photo yesterday in an attempt at shooting in 'open shade' although I am not sure if I shot it in the best open shade....or even if I shot it correctly. She was facing west(ish) with a limestone wall (house) on her left and fence all the way around it was probably around noon. What do you think? Am I far off base? One thing I don't like is her shirt. It seems a bit overexposed.

sooc

 

[MrsLittle]

The lighting is fine but the focus is not spot on.

 

[paigew]

The lighting is fine but the focus is not spot on.

thank you...when I looked at this photo in iphoto it looked very clear but I do see what you mean about the focus...I wonder why it looked more clear on iphoto?

 

[ann]

the lighting looks fine, however, i find the background a distraction. One's eyes go to those light stripes, it can't be helped that is what our brain does, goes to the light,

 

[paigew]

Thanks ann! I know the background isn't all that great; I wasn't so much bothered by the stripes as the black handle of the rake :er: . But you take what you can get right? It was in my backyard...nice and contained so I can chase around my kid with a camera. I'm not trying to be 'professional'. Just trying to learn and "see the light" hahaha

 

[KmH]

And it works better if the center of the lens is at or slightly below the subjects eyes.

Turning the camera 90°, to the portrait (vertical) orientation helps eliminate distractions and un-productive image real estate, like the gate on the right.

The bright lines from the gaps in the fence are distracting.

The idea of 'pop' is to separate your subject from the background by taking advantage of how humans prioritize what they look at.

It is human nature for the eye to be drawn to bright spots, like the bright vertical lines in the background of this photo. In the art world the precept is known as "light advances, dark receeds".

So we strive to advance our subject by making the subject brighter than the background.

A quick and dirty edit to illustrate my points;

 

[gsgary]

If you had put more thought into it you would not have shot it at F1.8, F4 it would have been sharp

 

[paigew]

If you had put more thought into it you would not have shot it at F1.8, F4 it would have been sharp

well its not really about me putting thought into it. Its about me learning what settings to use. I will try and remember that next time.

General question...is it best to learn in manual? Or to use one of the priority modes? Right now I use manual and always seem to mess up at least one setting.


Thanks Keith. Your advice is always very helpful to me and I appreciate it! When I took the photo it didn't seem like the fence lines were that bright (in person) so I need to remember to think how they will look on camera. I think my biggest hurdle is thinking/acting fast. Its not like my daughter was standing there posed. She was moving and that is the shot I happen to freeze. So I need to get quicker about turning my camera around/reframing the shot...which means I have to select a different focus point too. My respect for photographers continues to grow as my attempts continue to fail


edit to add...I just can't stop staring at those dang fence lines now....sheesh.......I think I need to take photos of strangers so I will be less biased

 

[gsgary]

If your not up to speed shooting manual try using aperture priority for portraits but keep an eye on your shutter speed it wants to be faster than the focal length used 100mm = 1/160 minimum on a crop camera

 

[ann]

It's ok to make mistakes that is how we learn. Keep taking lots of photos and practice, None of us picked up a camera and knew everything , we had to practice and fail and the practice again.

 

[KmH]

Its not like my daughter was standing there posed. She was moving and that is the shot I happen to freeze.

You will not often get portrait, hang-on-the-wall quality, in that type of shooting situation, unless you just get lucky.

Few lenses are at their sharpest when used wide open. They have to be stopped down a couple of stops or more to be tack sharp. Studio portraits are made at apertures closer to f/8.

Though many here on TPF tout a 50 mm f/1.8 prime lens, to many new shooters use them wide open not fully understanding how to get tack sharp focus with them.

The other issue is lighting. While open shade is certainly desireable outside, reflected or strobed light still has to be used to get that 'pop'.

 

[miamiller84]

Sorry has nothing to do with this, but how do you upload photos?

 

[paigew]

I upload them to photobucket then copy and paste the

 

[JH100]

Sorry has nothing to do with this, but how do you upload photos?

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...forum-functions-pictoral-guide-using-tpf.html

 

[Rephargotohp]

Paige, something i tell people that I mentor is. "Don't shoot your kids" Now I know you still will and you should.

But in the context of learning, you shouldn't shoot your kids because of the emotion you have for them. The only way to learn is to be self Critical. And you won't be when you shoot your kids because no matter what your response in your mind and heart is "She is just so stinkin cute!" Right?

I now it is hard to find people otherwise to shoot, but if you can it helps...in fact shoot someone you hate...you'll get better REAL quick...LOL