First time flash user. C&C

[CBURKE]

Got a new flash and wanted to try it out. Thank god my little one loves to have her picture taken lol. I faced the flash up to the ceiling using my 50mm. Let me know what you think.

 

[ultimadrift]

The eyes are underexposed. When you bounce the light off the ceiling and you are shooting up as well. The light is only hitting the top of her head.

 

[CBURKE]

Ok, so that is why I could not get her eyes. Thank you!
Should I be shooting down on her?

 

[Patrice]

A little bounce card made out of white cardboard or white project foam from wallmart and attached to your flash with a rubber band will direct a bit of light towards the front when you aim your flash to the ceiling. Just this little bit will help fill the shadows and create a catchlight in the eyes.

 

[CBURKE]

Ok....I think I'v seen this before. Thank you, I'll try that!

 

[Robin Usagani]

if you are in a small room, always bounce your flash head behind you at 45 degree vertical or higher. You can also rotate it horizontally if you have wall on the left or on the right.

 

[Kerbouchard]

I usually point my flash behind me and slightly to the left if I have a wall and ceiling in that direction. That way I get a softer diffused directional light instead of a flat light or a direct overhead light. As many times as I have linked this, I should be getting paid by his sponsors, but this is by far the best website I have ever read when it comes to bounce flash with a speedlight. I would recommend spending some time reading just about every article on the right. It is where I started.

http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/

 

[KmH]

Your camera perspective was a bit to low and/or you should have had her lower her chin some so we weren't looking up her nostrils.

When light is bounced it becomes an apparently much big light source, which makes for nice soft light and shadow edges. Apparently small light sources, like a hot shoe flash unit pointed directly at the subject, or direct sunlight, make harsh light and sharp edged shadows.

But, there are some issues you have to take into acount, like the color of the surface you are bouncing the light off of, because the light finally reaches your subject will take on the surface color.

Using a 'bounce card' for fill lighting has been mentioned, as has using nearby walls.

Plus you have to consider the total distance (both up and then back down) the bounced light has to travel, because that effects how much power the light has to put out. The further the distance, the more light (power)the flash unit has to put out, the quicker the batteries are drained and the longer the recycle time. The longest recycle time is after a unit has flashed at full power.

 

[kundalini]

Yep, you're not getting enough light going forward. The light falloff isn't reaching the eyes which are set further back in the skull shaded by the brow, resulting in raccoon eyes. Just to tailgate what Kerbouchard said, you can (on some flash units) reverse fire the head onto a reflector close behind you to soften the oncoming light. It's easier with an assistant, but can be done solo.

 

[CBURKE]

Thank you very much guys! I will read up as much as I can. My flash does not flip like that....Maybe I need to look at another flash for this.

 

[Kerbouchard]

Thank you very much guys! I will read up as much as I can. My flash does not flip like that....Maybe I need to look at another flash for this.

What type of flash are you using and with what type of camera system? Perhaps, we could give you a recommendation on a suitable flash for this type of work.

If your flash can only go straight up and straight forward, I would have to say the bounce card will be your best option for what you have now.

Actually, a better option might be to shoot in a portrait orientation and make use of a wall to bounce a diffused light from the side.

 

[mrpink]

Sto-Fen type diffusers work well in a pinch.

SB-600 fired on camera with a Sto-Fen, flash pointed 90* up....

DSC_7981ww by Matt Francosky, on Flickr






p!nK

 

[Kerbouchard]

Sto-Fen type diffusers work well in a pinch.

SB-600 fired on camera with a Sto-Fen, flash pointed 90* up....

DSC_7981ww by Matt Francosky, on Flickr






p!nK

That catchlight doesn't look like the flash was pointed 90 degrees up...unless you took advantage of a ceiling that isn't flat.

 

[Robin Usagani]

I must respectfully disagree with Kundalini's example. I wouldnt use any light modifier. Just bounce it to the wall behind you. If there is no wall behind you, I would point it almost vertical but still pointing to the back a little (80 degree). If you want more depth like you were using an off camera flash, bounce it to the side wall.

 

[Kerbouchard]

I must respectfully disagree with Kundalini's example. I wouldnt use any light modifier. Just bounce it to the wall behind you. If there is no wall behind you, I would point it almost vertical but still pointing to the back a little (80 degree). If you want more depth like you were using an off camera flash, bounce it to the side wall.

We may have to agree to disagree here. While I normally shy away from modifiers since they eat up power, there are lots of circumstances where they come in handy. In particular, Kundalini's example. If he would not have used a modifier, he would have been too close to the reflector for his flash to generate a large apparent light source. It all depends on what you are going for. If there is a wall 6-8 ft away that is neutrally colored and in a good position for bounce flash, than sure, a modifier just wastes battery power. If, on the other hand, you are up against the wall, literally, a modifier can give you a larger spread and a better photo.

Sure, none of it is the end all be all. But just about any light modifier on the market has it's place and has circumstances when it is beneficial.