Getting focus correct

ksasidhar

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I have taken some b'day snaps last week. While mist of them turned out fine, there were some pictures (like one posted) in which it seems that not all the important persons are in focus. In the picture, it feels to me that the girl eating the cake is on focus but the one giving the cake is slightly of the focus. I shot this with 50mm f1.4 in shutter priority to avoid any blur images. I try to focus between both children but it is impossible to do that with everyone moving quickly. What can I do to get both children in focus in such snaps?
 

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If you are shooting wide open at f/1.4, BOTH subjects NEED to be the SAME distance from the camera. So you or the subjects need to move so that they are the same distance from you.
At f/1.4 your DoF is VERY shallow, probably only a few inches.
 
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Classic depth-of-field issue. Shooting shutter-priority because of subject movement is a good idea, but your metering system does not allow for flash. You know you are using flash, but the meter doesn't, so it calculates for exposure without flash, meaning you're probably shooting wide open at f:1.4 all the time. Go to full manual, setting both shutter speed and aperture, using something like 1/125 or 1/250 and f:8 or even f:11, and leave the flash on auto-TTL. That way the flash will still auto-expose, and your depth-of-field will be significantly better.

Flash photography should not be shutter- or aperture-priority, because the meter does not accommodate for flash. Set the camera fully manual, and rely on auto-TTL for flash auto-exposure. Auto-TTL will produce the correct flash pulse for proper lighting with the given camera settings.
 
I have enhanced you image in Photoshop - to establish the focal, point - It appears to be on the girl right of shot as you will clearly see!

Depth of field appears to be the issue - like f2.8 etc - maybe a smaller aperture like say f8 / f9 will help getting all subjects in focus

Flash in TTL is a good choice but if you the facility to utilise High Speed sync ten that would be a better option and get the shutter speed up above the usual sync sped of your camera :)

Original
Zm7RSke.jpg


My Edit
lyKkDcL.jpg


Les :)
 
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I have enhanced you image in Photoshop - to establish the focal, point - It appears to be on the girl right of shot as you will clearly see!

Depth of field appears to be the issue - like f2.8 etc - maybe a smaller aperture like say f8 / f9 will help getting all subjects in focus

Flash in TTL is a good choice but if you the facility to utilise High Speed sync ten that would be a better option and get the shutter speed up above the usual sync sped of your camera :)

Original
Zm7RSke.jpg


My Edit
lyKkDcL.jpg


Les :)
Thank you for your reply. I have to do some reading on flash sync speed but understood what you mean.
 
Classic depth-of-field issue. Shooting shutter-priority because of subject movement is a good idea, but your metering system does not allow for flash. You know you are using flash, but the meter doesn't, so it calculates for exposure without flash, meaning you're probably shooting wide open at f:1.4 all the time. Go to full manual, setting both shutter speed and aperture, using something like 1/125 or 1/250 and f:8 or even f:11, and leave the flash on auto-TTL. That way the flash will still auto-expose, and your depth-of-field will be significantly better.

Flash photography should not be shutter- or aperture-priority, because the meter does not accommodate for flash. Set the camera fully manual, and rely on auto-TTL for flash auto-exposure. Auto-TTL will produce the correct flash pulse for proper lighting with the given camera settings.
Thanks for the reply. I had flash on TTL mode but with shutter priority. I will remember to use manual mode as you have explained.
 
And don't worry about high-speed-sync. That allows you to use flash at speeds above the normal flash sync speed, which depending on the camera, can be anywhere from 1/160 to 1/250. Those are plenty fast enough for indoor snapshots, unless people are really flying around the room! High-speed-sync EATS flash batteries, and reduces total flash power available, nether of which are desirable with a smaller aperture.
 
And don't worry about high-speed-sync. That allows you to use flash at speeds above the normal flash sync speed, which depending on the camera, can be anywhere from 1/160 to 1/250. Those are plenty fast enough for indoor snapshots, unless people are really flying around the room! High-speed-sync EATS flash batteries, and reduces total flash power available, nether of which are desirable with a smaller aperture.
That really depends on the flash gun used and how many shots you realistically need/use. - I use a pro gear and get up to 500 full powered shots in HSS per rechargeable battery, I have 4 of these idea for children running around etc I have 2 x Godox V1 speedlights and NEVER flatten the batteries and use these at High school proms - Weddings / Engaging parties and other social events I get booked for

Les :)
 
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That may be true, but it's still fewer shots than non-HSS with that same gear, and you have more power available in a single non-HSS flash pop than you have in HSS. The fact that seriously upgraded gear would work in his situation is beside the point, I think.
 
That may be true, but it's still fewer shots than non-HSS with that same gear, and you have more power available in a single non-HSS flash pop than you have in HSS. The fact that seriously upgraded gear would work in his situation is beside the point, I think.
I was merely commenting using the experience I have with the equipment I have :) I cannot comment on the OP's gear as I have no knowledge of what was used- HSS is a good tool to stop movement is what I was tying to convey is all

Les :)
 

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