help on taking sun ray and hazy photo

[480sparky41 40]

Careful placement of the sun within the frame can do it. All that light scattering around in a lens can reduce contrast.

But if you want a crappy filter, just buy the cheapest UV filter you can find on ebay. I doubt it'll cost you as much as lunch at Mickey D's.

 

[BrickHouse]

You could also rubber band some saran wrap over the lens and even go so far as putting some vaseline around the rim of the saran wrap (leave the center open). That'd give you pretty wicked haze.

 

[junqi]

Careful placement of the sun within the frame can do it. All that light scattering around in a lens can reduce contrast.

But if you want a crappy filter, just buy the cheapest UV filter you can find on ebay. I doubt it'll cost you as much as lunch at Mickey D's.

I do have a uv filter. But i always fail to capture hazy effect. any solution to it?

 

[TCampbell]

i have been trying to take hazy photo but somehow i can't manage to get it. do you have any tips of taking such photo. i did a google search but what i try still seems to fail. during day time i used aperture f2.8 iso200 shuttle speed 400. i am using 70-200mm f2.8 lens

F/2.8 isn't going to get you much. You need to stop down much further.

As for 'hazy', that's a function of particulate matter in the air. Dust, pollen, fog, smoke etc.

I tried to get a decent starburst recently. This is what I got by simply stopping down, probably f11 if I remember correctly.

F/8, if you really want to know.

I use f/22. The higher the f-stop the greater the intensity of diffraction spikes off the sun (or any point of light). You'll get one diffraction spike in each direction for each aperture blade, but if you have an even number of aperture blades they double-up (so it doesn't look like as many. If you have an odd number of blades you see more spikes.)

 

[junqi]

i have been trying to take hazy photo but somehow i can't manage to get it. do you have any tips of taking such photo. i did a google search but what i try still seems to fail. during day time i used aperture f2.8 iso200 shuttle speed 400. i am using 70-200mm f2.8 lens

F/2.8 isn't going to get you much. You need to stop down much further.

As for 'hazy', that's a function of particulate matter in the air. Dust, pollen, fog, smoke etc.

I tried to get a decent starburst recently. This is what I got by simply stopping down, probably f11 if I remember correctly.

F/8, if you really want to know.

I use f/22. The higher the f-stop the greater the intensity of diffraction spikes off the sun (or any point of light). You'll get one diffraction spike in each direction for each aperture blade, but if you have an even number of aperture blades they double-up (so it doesn't look like as many. If you have an odd number of blades you see more spikes.)

i understand that in order achieve the sun burst we have to use a narrow aperture but how about capturing a hazy effect during day time ? as mention from other article they told me that a wider aperture create more hazy ?

 

[KmH]

Back lighting lowers image contrast and can promote a hazy look. .

The photo you posted (post #9) has likely been edited with a Curves adjustment to add haze.
Use curves to add haze to a photo - Bing

By the way. TPF rules allow us to hot link to photos we do not own copyright to or have rights to use, but the rules do not allow us to post them.

 

[junqi]

Back lighting lowers image contrast and can promote a hazy look. .

The photo you linked to has likely been edited with a Curves adjustment to add haze.
Use curves to add haze to a photo - Bing

back lighting means narrow aperture if i understand correctly ? like f/16?

 

[480sparky41 40]

Back-lighting is not a setting... it's the physical placement of the light behind the subject, in relationship to the camera.

 

[junqi]

Back-lighting is not a setting... it's the physical placement of the light behind the subject, in relationship to the camera.

oh i get what you mean. correct me if i'm wrong placing subject in front and the sun behind the subject and focus on the subject this will make it hazy effect?

 

[480sparky41 40]

It won't be guaranteed, but it's possible. Remember, lens manufacturers try to prevent their lenses from reducing contrast when shooting into bright lights.

 

[junqi]

It won't be guaranteed, but it's possible. Remember, lens manufacturers try to prevent their lenses from reducing contrast when shooting into bright lights.

Thanks for the assistance i shall give it a shot and let you know the outcome really appreciate your help.

 

[TCampbell]

If the air is pristinely clear... you're not going to see a "hazy" effect (unless your optical surfaces are dirty -- but that won't be the type of effect you want.) Some _very_ elaborate photographers will actually resort to using a smoke/fog machine. Sometimes the time of day is a factor... I grew up near a lot of lakes and we'd commonly see the mist on and near the lake in the very early morning hours. You can watch the weather forecast and look for predictions of early morning fog in outlying areas.

Capturing such photos often involves being in the "right place" at the "right time". But unfortunately often the "right place" is remote and the "right time" is a time of day (or even a time of year) when we wouldn't normally be in such a place.

 

[table1349]

Try some of these effects.

10 DIY Photo Filters on the Cheap Photojojo

Shoot Hazy and Ethereal Photos Using a Sandwich Bag and Colored Markers

 

[3asiller]

Tahanks

 

[Derrel]

I LIKED the look from the so-called waterbottle pin-hole lens! bottle_1000.jpg
And the plastic bag + markers article had some nice effects. Really, pretty good.

In the 1980's, I had a small set of hairspray filters in 52mm diameter. One interesting tip about using filters on-lens is that how far away the filter is from the lens front, and what focal length the lens is, both have a pretty significant effect on how strong the effect is. One lens that is very good for diffusion/fog/soft focus effects is the old 55mm manual focus Micro~Nikkor, which has its front element very far back behind the filter threads; it might be the most deeply-recessed front element lens design that Nikon ever made for general use; this lens was a favorite of glamour/nude photographer Earl Miller in the 1980's, and this lens works wonderfully with a number of diffusion/white net/black net/wire mesh, and fog and soft-focus filters.