Help with Glass

[Ray Hines]

Hi all, I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me out with this problem.


Blue GlassIMGP9603-Edit by Ray. Hines, on Flickr

This is the setup I have been using for the glass shot on the right. I am trying to get a single line around the glass but am failing miserably and getting shots like the blue one, centre. The camera is set to ISO 100 Speed 1/160 and f/8. I am shooting various shots from 35mm to 70mm on a tripod. I have tried various amounts of light coming from the rear and have had the white cards held away from the glass and close to the glass and everything in between. I have tried every possible combination of focal length, white card angle and speedlight distance to the softbox. I have also set the speedlight strength from Full to 1/64. Just in case anyone thinks the softbox is on, it's not, I just use the white as a reflector for the speedlight.

Is it me or the glass? Any help appreciated. You can click the image to see a larger version on Flickr.

Thanks
Ray

 

[JacaRanda]

Does this help at all?

 

[KmH]

You find what you need to know about how to shoot glass in this inexpensive book:
Light Science and Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting

 

[Ray Hines]

JacaRanda, nice tip, but wrong subject I'm afraid. Thanks

Keith, thanks mate but that's what I'm reading I must be doing something wrong, or the glass is inferior and creates the extra lines.

Ray

 

[Ray Hines]

Well, I've gone back to basics and am relearning everything starting with a white background. The green is artistic licence done in PP using a green overlay layer in PS. The next stage will be a thinner glass to try to get those thin edges.

Thoughts and CC always appreciated.

Ray



Green Glass by Ray. Hines, on Flickr

 

[tirediron]

It looks like you're trying to do a variation of dark-field lighting, but your set-up diagram is so dark, I can't quite see what you're showing us.

 

[Ray Hines]

Thanks for taking an interest tirediron, it's appreciated.

Yes it is Dark Field but I can't take another shot at the moment as I've had to take it all apart. Here is a link to the same type of setup that I used https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2362/2266047823_35ee29b19f.jpg As I've said in my last post I'm going back to basics and starting from scratch. I've also been looking at some more glasses photographed using this technique and I think I'm trying to create the 'almost' impossible and being far to fussy. Most photos I have seen look very similar to the blue glass is my OP above. I'm just going to have to concentrate on lighting the top of the glass, and maybe find a smaller wine glass to give me more choice of focal length.

Ray

 

[tirediron]

I suspect you are trying to produce a shot that is almost un-producable. Moving the light closer and flagging one side entirely may help, but the shape of the glass is working against you' getting one side only on that narrow stem is almost impossible. Keep us updated on how it goes though!

 

[Ray Hines]

I think you're right John. I'll keep you updated.

 

[Ray Hines]

I've had another go at Dark Field, this time with a different, smaller glass. This one has ridges around it so is fairly easy to line up for the camera. The rim would have been better but I had to use a clamp to hold the black foam board background and this stopped the light a little. Enforced day off tomorrow so I'll be trying again. More to come



Dark Field Test 1 by Ray. Hines, on Flickr

 

[Ray Hines]

Well I've had another go and this is how I got there.

Top Row Left: Original
Top Row Right: Straighten, Levels to adjust the blacks, and a clean with Spot Healing Brush.
Bottom Row Left: Copy of top of the right hand side of the glass flipped and pasted to left hand side to aid symmetry. High Pass Filter sharpening added.
Bottom Row Right: Lightroom B&W Filter Preset Red Hi-Contrast Filter added to give added sparkle to the glass facets.

With what I have, and my skill level I'm happy with the result. The glass is old and a little scratched and there is dust everywhere so I'm never going to get a truly professional finish. Is the cut and paste cheating or just editing, you decide, it was the only way I could get the finish I wanted.

Comments and CC always welcome

Ray


Dark Field Test 2 by Ray. Hines, on Flickr

 

[Ray Hines]

Ok, it's not glass, but it was too light and there were too many reflections. I still wanted to do some Dark Field photos so I stuck the Giottos Rocket Air Blower on the table to have some fun. The edges were done using the usual Dark Field method, but I added a Speedlight at the front to pick up the details.


GIOTTOS by Ray. Hines, on Flickr

 

[shmne]

Not 100% familiar with the dark field method but personally for glass I almost always rely on compositing so that I can accent every detail I want without having to spend hours setting up a bunch of white cards and flags.

Compositing in this style is extremely simple since all of the "tells" that normally give away a composite are hidden - so to answer your question of "is the cut and paste cheating" - no its called working smarter not harder

 

[Ray Hines]

Nice surprise Joe, I thought this thread had run it's course. I'm with you on cut and paste being ok. As long as you you can't see the join it's fine.

 

[FotosbyMike]

So I know this as White Line/Black Line photography and this is how I do it and this is pretty easy. I use a softbox and a piece of black fabric to block the center of the light and give me a black background. Adjust the black fabric wider or thinner until you get the desired line size on the side of your glass you can also adjust the flash power too. If you would like to see a shoot without fill and rear softbox light only please let me know and I will add another image tonight.