Hate to reply to an old thread, but I put your clever little test image to good use.
And I can now answer the question of how HighPass sharpening differs from USM. They both start off the same way: by subtracting a Gaussian blurred version from the original. But the USM adds the difference directly back to the original, whereas the High Pass sharpen has to use a blend mode to do the workand the formulas are not the same.
You can view all the gory detail in my paper at
freixas's Gallery
Wow, excellent paper! Looks like a lot of research went into it. I read most of it, but don't really understand the math formulas as they're beyond my understanding.
I've used a lot of different sharpening methods. What I tend to use the most is:
1. Convert to LAB mode
2. Duplicate layer to be sharpened
3. Sharpen entire image (of the duplicated layer) using USM on LIGHTNESS channel to 100% 1.0 radius, sometimes 200%, and sometimes other larger radius
4. Add layer mask to duplicated layer
5. By painting with a brush, add or subtract areas of the layer mask so areas of an image are sharper than others. To me this is the most important step. For example, in a clean blue gradient sky and don't want any sharpening because it will just add noise. In small detail foliage and don't want much sharpening because it creates too much contrast and noise which draws the viewer's eye in where I don't want them to look. The areas that get most of the sharpening are the details of the subject. Of course, it depends on the subject. Naturally softer surfaces like people's faces or maybe flower pedals don't get too sharpened. But rough stuff like concrete looks better with more aggressive sharpening applied. So in the end it's an artistic choice.
On a flattened image I sometime repeat the above steps in an additional sharpening pass. I do the same steps but use a much larger sharpening radius (like 15). This is usually to very slightly sharpen clouds in the sky, and only those clouds -- nothing else in the image. This sharpening is very, very subtle. So it makes a very small noticeable difference but adds some 'punch' to the clouds, if desired.
I should also say that my method is used for images to be viewed on the monitor in original size, or smaller size to be posted on the web. I don't do any printing, so maybe printing would need a different sharpening method.