Hit or miss, what am I doing wrong?

[JocieValenciaPhoto]

Hey guys thanks for the responses but Id rather deal with this problem on my own =)

 

[MLeeK]

Manual focus is rarely as accurate as manual focus. Why are you shooting with manual focus? And what does manually focusing on your daughter have in bearing on the 'good light in the sky'? Light is a result of exposure and has nothing to do with focus. To expose the subject AND the sky properly it requires flash, not natural light.
I am rather concerned that you are shooting a wedding after what you just said. Studio photography in no way prepares you for a wedding. They are totally different animals and studio work does not even have a hint of preparing you for a wedding.
How long do you have to practice? Where is the wedding? Inside? Church?

Your flash sometimes firing and sometimes not is usually a result of not allowing the flash to fully recycle and/or old batteries. Battery life in a flash is a whole lot shorter than it is in anything else. You are best off to use eneloop rechargeable batteries and you will need 4 to 6 sets of them for a wedding day.

 

[imagemaker46]

You don't seem to have a grasp of the basics of understanding how light works. You have stated that you have been working professionally for a couple of years and yet you are just now trying to figure out how to use a flash or avaliable light. I won't say anything negative against the camera as using it with the correct high end lenses it has the capabilities to produce excellent images in the right hands. Seems to me that your skills will have to take a huge jump forward if you want to produce quality images for a wedding.

What lenses do you have to use with the T3i?

 

[Big Mike]

Welcome to the forum.

We seem to be dealing with a few different issues here, lets slow it down and tackle one thing at a time.
First is focus. I'm also wondering why you would use manual focus in these situations. Auto focus is much more sensitive and often more accurate than manually focusing...especially on modern DSLR like yours.
The key to using auto focus effectively, is understanding the difference between the focus modes. Firstly 'One Shot' vs 'AI Servo'...and secondly, Auto point selection vs Manual point selection.
As mentioned, your focus has nothing to do with exposure. And your method of focus (manual vs auto) has nothing to do with your Depth of Field (what is in focus and what is not).

At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter how you achieve focus...as long as you do.

As for your photos being inconsistent (especially outdoors). That may be a metering issue. You said that you shoot in manual mode, that's good. Do you always get to zero or do you know when to shoot above or below zero? Do you know how to use the various metering modes?

 

[JocieValenciaPhoto]

You don't seem to have a grasp of the basics of understanding how light works. You have stated that you have been working professionally for a couple of years and yet you are just now trying to figure out how to use a flash or avaliable light. I won't say anything negative against the camera as using it with the correct high end lenses it has the capabilities to produce excellent images in the right hands. Seems to me that your skills will have to take a huge jump forward if you want to produce quality images for a wedding.

What lenses do you have to use with the T3i?

In no way am I "just figuring out how to use flash or available light" Shooting in a studio with studio lights( I use softboxes or photofloods, neither of which are natural or mounted on my camera) are completely different than shooting with natural light or a speedlight mounted on my camera, each of those lighting techniques require different methods, and I have been shooting in a studio for years, and getting better as time goes by, but I am now interested in being able to shoot with natural light(for outdoors photography, or places where studio lights/flash is not allowed such as a church). I did not write this post to try how to figure out my studio lighting, I've got that down, I am seeking help with other types of lighting, to be a well rounded photographer. Buying a new lens is not really an option, I'd rather figure out how to be a good photographer before investing even more money, as for the wedding, I have shot other family events at no cost so this is my first non-family event, where I am getting paid(not much since I am obviously a beginner). Perhaps you misunderstood me, or I did not explain myself correctly. I am currently a STUDIO PHOTOGRAPHER looking to expand my skills and portfolio and to be able to work with other types of light. The current lenses I use are the ones that came with the kit. I was simply seeking some advice on getting better OUTSIDE of my studio.

 

[JocieValenciaPhoto]

Welcome to the forum.

We seem to be dealing with a few different issues here, lets slow it down and tackle one thing at a time.
First is focus. I'm also wondering why you would use manual focus in these situations. Auto focus is much more sensitive and often more accurate than manually focusing...especially on modern DSLR like yours.
The key to using auto focus effectively, is understanding the difference between the focus modes. Firstly 'One Shot' vs 'AI Servo'...and secondly, Auto point selection vs Manual point selection.
As mentioned, your focus has nothing to do with exposure. And your method of focus (manual vs auto) has nothing to do with your Depth of Field (what is in focus and what is not).

At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter how you achieve focus...as long as you do.

As for your photos being inconsistent (especially outdoors). That may be a metering issue. You said that you shoot in manual mode, that's good. Do you always get to zero or do you know when to shoot above or below zero? Do you know how to use the various metering modes?

Thank you, and yes there are many issues I was trying to address, but I think it might have come across a little confusing. None of these photos are professional, simply for my own pleasure, so whether they are Manual Focus or Auto Focus were really for my own amusement, I had never shot in MF, and I wanted to try it out because I wanted to shoot small details, close up and shooting in Auto Focus wouldn't let me as it couldn't focus correctly, and Manual Focus does allow me to shoot that close. It doesn't really matter if I shot all of these in MF, only the ones of the thorns or bell flowers, but that was definitely not the issue I was having. I'm aware of Depth of field and all that, just wanted to shoot closer objects. Mostly my problem is shooting in broad daylight, and trying to properly expose the sky and the main subject. When I expose the sky correctly, the rest of the picture is pitch black, which is why I use the Speedlight in those particular situations(i dont use the speedlight otherwise). Honestly, I have messed around with the metering modes on my old Nikon, but not on this one, is that what I need to figure out?

 

[JocieValenciaPhoto]

Manual focus is rarely as accurate as manual focus. Why are you shooting with manual focus? And what does manually focusing on your daughter have in bearing on the 'good light in the sky'? Light is a result of exposure and has nothing to do with focus. To expose the subject AND the sky properly it requires flash, not natural light.
I am rather concerned that you are shooting a wedding after what you just said. Studio photography in no way prepares you for a wedding. They are totally different animals and studio work does not even have a hint of preparing you for a wedding.
How long do you have to practice? Where is the wedding? Inside? Church?

Your flash sometimes firing and sometimes not is usually a result of not allowing the flash to fully recycle and/or old batteries. Battery life in a flash is a whole lot shorter than it is in anything else. You are best off to use eneloop rechargeable batteries and you will need 4 to 6 sets of them for a wedding day.

The Manual Focus and proper sky exposure were two separate things, I must have worded that incorrectly. I was shooting with MF simply to be able to shoot smaller details on flowers and thorns, and get better acquainted with it, whether it's required or not. The photo of my daughter really had nothing to do with MF, I am mostly concerned with properly exposing the sky, AND the subject(that's when the speedlight comes in). In a way I agree, studio photography and wedding photography are two completely different things, which is why I am in this forum, seeking help, to make sure I am the most prepared I could possibly be, practicing every single day. I have about a month to practice, and the wedding will be in a country club(i will be shooting indoors and outdoors), in the afternoon, so the natural light will be in my favor as opposed to shooting in midday on a sunny California day like all of the photos I posted. Thanks about the battery thing, I figured that was exactly what it was.

 

[Ysarex85 79]

....When I expose the sky correctly, the rest of the picture is pitch black, which is why I use the Speedlight in those particular situations(i dont use the speedlight otherwise). Honestly, I have messed around with the metering modes on my old Nikon, but not on this one, is that what I need to figure out?

When you expose the sky correctly and the rest of the picture is black you have a good exposure of the sky. If you want a good exposure of the black part of the photo then increase the exposure. Of course the sky will then overexpose. So then decrease the exposure for the sky but then the rest of the photo will be black so increase the exposure but then the sky will overexpose.... got it? Pick one, or change the lighting. There's no metering mode that makes the impossible possible.

Joe

edit: In the photo of your daughter why did you make the sky green?

 

[JocieValenciaPhoto]

....When I expose the sky correctly, the rest of the picture is pitch black, which is why I use the Speedlight in those particular situations(i dont use the speedlight otherwise). Honestly, I have messed around with the metering modes on my old Nikon, but not on this one, is that what I need to figure out?

When you expose the sky correctly and the rest of the picture is black you have a good exposure of the sky. If you want a good exposure of the black part of the photo then increase the exposure. Of course the sky will then overexpose. So then decrease the exposure for the sky but then the rest of the photo will be black so increase the exposure but then the sky will overexpose.... got it? Pick one, or change the lighting. There's no metering mode that makes the impossible possible.

Joe

edit: In the photo of your daughter why did you make the sky green?

I have separate lighting for the subject to be able to properly expose the sky, I think it must have just been battery problems. Anyways it's green because I wanted to change it, I like colors.

 

[o hey tyler]

Manual focus is rarely as accurate as manual focus. Why are you shooting with manual focus?

Wow.

 

[cgipson1]

Hey guys thanks for the responses but Id rather deal with this problem on my own =)

In other words... you don't want help? Or you didn't get the answer you wanted?

 

[richardcrives]

There are no cut and dry answers to photography. Every situation in photography is different and only experience will guide you to make the right decisions. Yes, sometimes you will make the wrong decisions but that's how you learn.

 

[imagemaker46]

No she got the answers that she didn't want to hear. "I have been working as a professional for two years" and the next post "I am obviously a beginner)".

I guess I misunderstood, and the original post has been edited as well.

Don't let the studio door hit you on the way out into the natural light, it's a scary thing.

 

[MLeeK]

Manual focus is rarely as accurate as manual focus. Why are you shooting with manual focus?

Wow.

OH MY GOD, A TYPO! WOW! LOL!
Didn't you have an epic flounce and leave?

OP, sorry the answers weren't what you wanted to hear, but you really need some help. Hoping you find it elsewhere because you've got a can of worms in front of you that is pretty scary!
I am happy to help with whatever you need help with, but you have to open up your eyes. You are really kind of in trouble here and don't even know it. A wedding is the hardest thing to shoot and the full light of day does NOT put the light in your favor. In fact it is probably the hardest lighting to shoot in. You simply don't know what you don't know and it's a LOT.
If you continue to flounce off in a snit because people point out to you the major errors and things you need to learn in a hell of a hurry I seriously fear for you in this wedding. You just put your studio business in real jeopardy. Yep, really.
I wish you luck!

 

[bratkinson]

Ditto on MLeek's "seriously fear for you in this wedding".

I 'came in late' to this discussion, and you've apparently edited out the picture from your first post. But from what I can gather from the responses of others as well your own, it would seem that you are walking into a lions den without even having a chair.

In one of your replies, you indicated you are not intending to buy any new lenses, and are content with the one(s) that came with your kit. I'm hoping your 'kit' came with a fast lens, such as an f2.8, or you will have serious exposure problems. "Standard" kit lenses are almost 100% inadequate for indoor photography under less than brightly-lit situations without a good flash, preferably on a bracket. As a former 35mm photographer now in the digital world (strictly amateur), I still get tricked by unusual lighting situations both indoors and out. I consider myself barely adequate (which probably overstates my abilities) to get 'enough' decent photos of an event whether indoors or out. I know enough to shoot in manual mode most of the time, but often have to take another shot or two to get an exposure I like. In a wedding ceremony, there is no '2nd shot' go get it right. For what it's worth, I was an unpaid ex-family member photographer (for my own use) at my step-daughters wedding this past March, and got into BIG trouble with white balance and exposure both due to a combination of chandelier and wall sconce lighting throughout the ceremony and banquet area at a country club-like setting. Dark wood paneling throughout didn't help, either.

I also have concern that the wedding will include outdoor shooting. One of the recent threads elsewhere on this website had wedding pictures taken outside that the metering was wrong, shooting somewhat into sun, with significantly overexposed areas. Like my own unfamiliarity with constantly-moving-constantly-shooting necessary at a wedding, that photographer also failed to notice background issues in the frame, before they took the shot. In both cases, it was lighting. One poster here several months ago had a beautiful shot of the wedding party on a terrace somewhere, but failed to notice the telephone pole in the background, apparently 'growing' out of the brides' head! Being mentally "focused" on the subject rather than seeing the "whole picture" is still a significant challenge to me.

I doubt I will ever shoot at another wedding. But should I think I may(eg, nuts), I would first 'hire on' as a 2nd shooter/helper/slave (for free, even!) for several weddings to get the 'feel' of what shots to get, what kind of surprises are there, etc. There's also a number of very useful threads on this forum about wedding photography that contain a wealth of information for those wishing to do a wedding.

While it may be too late to back out of the wedding, please don't be overly confident about your skills. Be sure to let the bride and groom know fully that you are new to wedding photography and the results may be less than expected. I'd even try to figure out some kind of contract language to that effect.

Good luck! No matter what, it WILL BE a learning experience for you...BIG TIME!