How do YOU convert a Color photo to B&W?

[PropilotBW]

As I have started taking more family sessions, I have converted the color version of the original to black and white....because sometimes that's what a family wants.

Usually, I just click on the B&W button on Lightroom, maybe adjusting a couple sliders, but not really much.

Which leaves me thinking if there's more of an artful technique to convert it.

What do you do to convert yours?

 

[weepete]

I used to desaturate, adjust exposure then set the eite and black point then play with the HSL panel then as usual: enable profile corrections, crop sharpen, reduce noise export.since the lastest version of lightroom now gives you the HSL options I'll just hit black and white instead of desaturating now, then as above.

 

[cauzimme]

I start with editing my color photo, once it's done, I do the B&W adjust the channel, dodge and burn where I need it.

 

[Derrel]

In Lightroom, I will often use the various color filter effect presets, which mimic various old-school B&W filter looks. Blue or blue high-contrast create very dark skin coloration, which on rare occasions, looks good, but usually looks awful; the infrared filter effect often creates a delicate, ethereal glowing B&W look. The green filter is VERY useful. Lightroom has some other useful base looks, like Sepia, Creamtone, Antique Light, and so on

One secret I will pass on is to combine one of the Matt's Lightroom Killer tips presets with one of the various B&W with filter effects, such as his Ultimate Fighter look combined with oh, say the Red filter or the Sepia filter, or maybe the Green filter.

I took a single old proof file, shot in 2006 with studio flash using a 20-year-old VERY yellowed-front 36x48 inch Chimera softbox, and made some conversions for this thread


This is an eyeballed WB that is pretty close to accurate for her actual hair color and cool, pale, no-makeup skin tone. All the following are made form this, exact file as the starting point.


Lightroom's "Look 4" B&W conversion.


Lightroom's "Green Filter" conversion.


Lightroom's "Creamtone" look.


Lightroom's "Sepia" look.


Matt K's Killer Tips preset "Ultimate Fighter-Medium", then the Lightroom Red filter effect applied to that...notice the delicate skin tones.


Matt K's "Ultimate Fighter-Strong" preset, then the Lightroom Sepia effect added to that.

 

[PropilotBW]

In Lightroom, I will often use the various color filter effect presets, which mimic various old-school B&W filter looks. Blue or blue high-contrast create very dark skin coloration, which on rare occasions, looks good, but usually looks awful; the infrared filter effect often creates a delicate, ethereal glowing B&W look. The green filter is VERY useful. Lightroom has some other useful base looks, like Sepia, Creamtone, Antique Light, and so on

One secret I will pass on is to combine one of the Matt's Lightroom Killer tips presets with one of the various B&W with filter effects, such as his Ultimate Fighter look combined with oh, say the Red filter or the Sepia filter, or maybe the Green filter.

I took a single old proof file, shot in 2006 with studio flash using a 20-year-old VERY yellowed-front 36x48 inch Chimera softbox, and made some conversions for this thread

View attachment 112188
This is an eyeballed WB that is pretty close to accurate for her actual hair color and cool, pale, no-makeup skin tone. All the following are made form this, exact file as the starting point.

View attachment 112189
Lightroom's "Look 4" B&W conversion.

View attachment 112190
Lightroom's "Green Filter" conversion.

View attachment 112191
Lightroom's "Creamtone" look.

View attachment 112192
Lightroom's "Sepia" look.

View attachment 112193
Matt K's Killer Tips preset "Ultimate Fighter-Medium", then the Lightroom Red filter effect applied to that...notice the delicate skin tones.

View attachment 112194
Matt K's "Ultimate Fighter-Strong" preset, then the Lightroom Sepia effect added to that.

Wow, thank you very much for those tips. That's EXTREMELY useful information.

 

[PropilotBW]

I start with editing my color photo, once it's done, I do the B&W adjust the channel, dodge and burn where I need it.

Yes, that's usually what I do. I get the color photo the way I like it, then I convert to black and white.

I'm not familiar with the term "dodge and burn". What do you mean by this?

 

[cauzimme]

I start with editing my color photo, once it's done, I do the B&W adjust the channel, dodge and burn where I need it.

Yes, that's usually what I do. I get the color photo the way I like it, then I convert to black and white.

I'm not familiar with the term "dodge and burn". What do you mean by this?

Dodging is decreasing the exposure in the area you want to be lighter. Burning is increasing exposure in the area you want to be darker.

It was first a darkroom technique, you would move a piece of carton in front of your photo in the darkroom to reduce the exposition time of an area.
In photoshop, there's a tool call dodge and burn, it's like a brush that you apply.

 

[480sparky]

I don't have one single method. I utilize at least a dozen, maybe 15 methods on a regular basis. Which one depends on the scene and how I envisioned it when I was in the field.

 

[KmH]

Me too.
What color edits I do depends on the content and my goals.
What B&W edits I do depends on the content and my goals.

 

[ronlane]

I rarely convert one in LR any more. Typically I do my LR adjustments and send it to PS. From there I can use the plug in from MacPhun (Tonaility Pro) or Silver Efex from Nik. But recently, I have been using a new technique that I learned from Scott Kelby using the Gradient adjustment layer.

I got this from his book The Adobe Photoshop for digital photographers for version cs6 and cc.

 

[The_Traveler]

Just desaturating is the least effective way to convert.
In LR, have a look at the image in BW to see how the colors look, then go back to color and adjust the tonality of the colors until a glimpse in LR BW gives the best results.
That works but lacks a bit in the ability to manage colors directly and, imo, not nearly with the specificity as in PS because of LR's limited selection tools.
If all your images are done in the studio, LR might work because you have control of clothing colors and light but, in general, global changes don't work as well as I'd like.

In photoshop, there's a tool call dodge and burn, it's like a brush that you apply.

I suggest that you don't use the dodge burn tool because it changes the underlying pixels.
If you are in PS there is a non-destructive method that is terrific.
Make a new empty adjustment layer and set the type to overlay and check the option to fill with a neutral grey.
Then use a brush set to a very low opacity (7-10%).
Brushing on white will lighten any area, conversely brushing on black will darken it.
Adjusting the hardness will have the obvious effects.

Here is a sample tutorial but there are many more.

 

[480sparky]

One method I prefer to use it to take a photo in color. Then I hop into my DeLorean, get 'er up to 88MPH, and travel back to 1885.

Bam! Instant black n white conversion!

.........................

 

[D-B-J]

I use Nik-Silver Efex. Most robust conversion software, and super super simple to use.

_RSP0845-Edit by f_one_eight, on Flickr

_RSP7966-Edit by f_one_eight, on Flickr

_RSP3039-Edit by f_one_eight, on Flickr

All processed in only a few minutes in Nik Silver Efex. Absolutely love the program.

Jake

 

[gsgary]

I just develope the colour negatives in Rodinal

 

[ronlane]

One method I prefer to use it to take a photo in color. Then I hop into my DeLorean, get 'er up to 88MPH, and travel back to 1885.

Bam! Instant black n white conversion!

.........................

Why didn't you drive that down this way a couple of weeks ago?? lol.