How to start with developing 35mm B&W film at home?

........ I also find that cutting a tiny bit off the lead corners helps it load more easily, but I'm not sure how that trick holds for the steel reels.

It doesn't because you don't 'push' the film from the outside in. You start at the inside and work your way out. The end of the film is pushed into a clip to hold it in place, and the film is then run into the spiral rails in ever-expanding arcs.

Makes sense. I knew the steel reels started from the inside and loaded to the outside, but I wasn't sure how they were fastened.

With the plastic Patterson reels that load from the outside, the sharp edges sometimes catch and the film gets stuck. With just the tip of each side clipped, they slide more easily as the film is being pushed/ratcheted.
 
Thanks everyone for all the great information. I'm going to buy some chemicals, B&W film, and supplies this weekend.

Hopefully you have a film camera.........
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haha, this all started when my grandfather gave me a very good condition canon AE-1. I have a 50mm lens, 80 - 200mm Tokina zoom lens, and a 135mm.
 
I've heard that the plastic reels in the Patterson tanks are easier to load than the steel reels - I can't say if that's true or not because I've only used the Patterson. They're not too bad, but I agree that loading the film is probably one of the more frustrating steps.

Make sure everything is perfectly dry before trying to load the film. It will make it easier to deal with. I also find that cutting a tiny bit off the lead corners helps it load more easily, but I'm not sure how that trick holds for the steel reels.
Plastic reels are easier, but the plastic reels require a bigger tank ... therefore more developer and fixer. The plastic reels have significantly more mass, so you have to agitate a tad more. You will lose some frames in the beginning with steel reels. But after you've mastered the rolling, you save some $$ and less chemicals going to the treatment plant. Less chemicals is better for all those beneficial little bugs at the treatment plant.
 
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I've always folded the end of the film then slide it under the clip in the middle. Then slight crimp the film where the film meets the outer edge of the reel ... then slowly turn the reel to get it started. I think the secret is in the crimp. Too much crimp and the film will jump to the wrong groove, too little crimp will cause you to exert more force than necessary and the extra force will cause the film to jump to the wrong groove.

But its been decades since I developed film ... my memory is probably shot.
 
Only briefly mentioned above was a dark room. Not 'sort-of dark', not 'nearly dark', not 'I can barely see' dark, either. But 100% dark...can't see your hand 2" in front of your face dark.

While building a darkroom in the basement is an option, just the studs and plywood would be in the hundreds of dollars. A better solution is a pre-existing room without windows somewhere in the house. Then all you need to do is block off any light coming around the door. Note that most interior doors are a loose-enough fit that light comes around all 4 sides, especially the bottom, due to allowance for carpeting, etc. And before you 'set up shop' in a nice-sized walk-in closet, should one be available, carefully remove any clothing or anything else that might be accidentally damaged if splashed with chemicals or might absorb the odors given off by the chemicals. If it were my parents walk in closet, I'd remove EVERYTHING first, carefully hanging what needs to be hung up in other closets.

Also not mentioned was printing. While contact prints made directly from the film are OK to look at, they are film size, eg 36mmx24mm.

An alternative is to scan the negatives into your computer. But you'll need a slide and negative capable scanner to start with. Those scanners typically have a separate film-holder tray to hold the negatives flat and have a light in the lid that shows through the slides and negatives to illuminate the scanner sensor.

Or, you can get an enlarger and table large enough to hold your largest print size and the enlarger itself. Add in trays of developer, etc for the prints. For what it's worth, there's many amateur photographers selling their darkroom equipment for a song these days. Watch Craigslist or ebay, or even check out the used equipment sources such as Adorama, B&H, and KEH.

Keep your eyes open and find a photography club in the area. There may even be one at the local university campus.
 
That's all true about the darkroom, though just to be clear, a darkroom is not necessary if you're just developing. The only part that requires total darkness is loading the film into the tank, and that can be done with a changing bag. The rest of the process can be done with the lights on (the bathroom is suggested) since now the film is in the tank, and the tank is lightproof (if it isn't, it's a defective tank.)

The darkroom is needed if you plan on wet printing.
 
Just two things I'll add to the excellent advice on this thread. First, I used Patterson tanks for quite a few years and they are easier to load. True, they require a little more solution, but it's really not that much. Second, the best way to make sure the closet, or whatever area you're loading film in, is dark enough is to sit there for a good 2-3 minutes until your eyes adjust and if at that point you can't see anything, you are good to go. Sometimes a closet needs a little help, like covering a nearby window or putting a rag along the bottom of the door.
 
If anyone is still watching this thread I just wanted to say an update. Today I successfully developed a roll of film. I am currently in the process of scanning it. I will post a link here soon for anyone who is interested.
 
If anyone is still watching this thread I just wanted to say an update. Today I successfully developed a roll of film. I am currently in the process of scanning it. I will post a link here soon for anyone who is interested.

Hey, good for you!
 

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