What's new

Hoya RM-72 photos?

Markw

No longer a newbie, moving up!
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
4,057
Reaction score
230
Location
Baltimore
Can others edit my Photos
Photos NOT OK to edit
I am thinking about gettig this filter, does anyone have any shots taken with it?

Mark
 
I have that filter and love it. The shots need some serious post-process love though to turn into anything worthwhile. Definitely a challenge but it's fun.
 
ir-covered-bridge.jpg



marcy-dam4.jpg


train-tracks.jpg


chateau.jpg
 
Does anyone have any pictures taken with this filter straight from the camera? How do you know if the pictures are exposed correctly if they come off the camera all red?

Thanks
Mark
 
Does anyone have any pictures taken with this filter straight from the camera? How do you know if the pictures are exposed correctly if they come off the camera all red?

Thanks
Mark

I use the histogram to determine proper exposure and then bracket like there's no tomorrow. I don't have any posted though to share.
 
Does anyone have any pictures taken with this filter straight from the camera? How do you know if the pictures are exposed correctly if they come off the camera all red?

Thanks
Mark

I use the histogram to determine proper exposure and then bracket like there's no tomorrow. I don't have any posted though to share.

That's how I do it, lol.

Here are a few to show you before & after custom WB (and the accompanying histograms):

As-Shot:
IMG_6714-resized-small-2.jpg
Capture-histogram-asshot.jpg


Custom WB (the tree):
IMG_6714-resized-small.jpg
Capture-histogram-customwb.jpg
 
Does anyone have any pictures taken with this filter straight from the camera? How do you know if the pictures are exposed correctly if they come off the camera all red?

Thanks
Mark

I use the histogram to determine proper exposure and then bracket like there's no tomorrow. I don't have any posted though to share.

That's how I do it, lol.

Here are a few to show you before & after custom WB (and the accompanying histograms):
Sorry to go off-topic a little bit, but I never knew IR photos needed such a radical change to look decent. Great work, I salute you!
 
If I had set a custom WB while I was shooting, they would have came off the camera looking like the second one. WB was set to Daylight on the first one.

If I knew the sky was going to look like that, I would have composed differently to include more of it. This was a longer exposure than I normally need for IR, it had a much greater impact on the movement of the clouds than I had anticipated.

My LCD is broken, so I can't see any of my pictures until I get them on the computer.

I don't think I'll know what to do when I get a new camera with a working LCD...lol.
 
So, Im confused what youre looking for on the histogram, and what bracketing is. I guess I should know these things..but if you could tell me, Id appreciate it.

Mark
 
I don't look at anything until I get it on the computer. By then, there isn't a whole lot you need the histogram for.

The histogram shows you the exposure.
The right side is the highlights, the left is the shadows.
The top is more data, the bottom is less data. If part of the histogram goes off the top of the graph, that area is either completely blown out or so dark that there is no detail - depending on what end of the histogram it's on.

If the histogram is mostly on the left side, you likely have an underexposed image - most of the data is one the dark end of the graph.


Bracketing is when you take multiple exposures, at different settings.

With IR, it's often hard to know ahead of time what your settings need to be. You can't see anything, and you can't use the meter either.

Say that the "good" exposure is 15 seconds. You might want to bracket that by one stop and take an additional exposure of 8 seconds (one stop under) and 30 seconds (one stop over).

I'll usually start at 5 seconds and take additional exposures at 5 second intervals up to 30 seconds.
 
Last edited:
Capture-histogram-asshot.jpg

In this histogram, you can see that most of the information is on the 'bright' end, and that the red channel is getting close to being blown out (if it goes off the top, it's blown out).

Capture-histogram-customwb.jpg

On this one you can see that the overall exposure is more in the middle - the brightest part (closest to the top) being the middle (neutral) section.


What to look for...?

I would look for a wide histogram, with data in all areas. I would want to get close to the top, but not go past it. If a small section goes over the top, it might be OK - sometimes it's OK to blow some details out.

A "perfect" histogram would look more like this:
Capture-histogram.jpg
 
Last edited:
With IR it's much less about knowing the exact setting than it is about experimenting. I use a similar process to what O|||||||O described but I'll randomly guess a shutter speed (I use SS priority) until the histogram shows that it's close to being a proper exposure, then use shutter speeds just above / below the one that worked.

You never really KNOW though until you get the pics home and can view them on a PC. A lot of times the underexposed shots will turn out better than the properly exposed shots.
 
Sorry to go off-topic a little bit, but I never knew IR photos needed such a radical change to look decent. Great work, I salute you!

Yeah they need a ton of PP work. Good RAW conversion software and PP skills are definitely needed. The good thing is that you basically stick to the same post-process routine with minor tweaks to change it up so once you learn it you should be all set.
 
I am thinking about gettig this filter, does anyone have any shots taken with it?

Mark

Yes the r-72 is a good filter,


the wratten 88b is better but cost a lot more.
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account on our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom