I was sick today.

[Helter]

Still really new to this and even newer to developing at home so any tips/C&C is appreciated. On the photograph itself or developing. :thumbup:

 

[timor]

Developing ? Do you mean film ? If so it looks like pretty decent job. Give us specs regarding film and the process.

 

[KenC]

There are no highlights in this, even though some of the objects are near white (aspirin, tissues). If the negative has no real highlight areas it most likely was underdeveloped, or the film was very underexposed in camera. Otherwise, the fault would be with the scan. All scanner software allows brightness and contrast adjustment of some sort, from a primitive control that's usually just called "contrast" to some sort of curves/levels adjustment. As for the composition, I would crop the top to get rid of the bright spot in the upper right corner. It's a pretty good composition, might be better if we weren't looking off the edge of the table on the right.

 

[Helter]

Timor - I used Tmax developer for 5:30, agitating the first minute continually and then a few times at the start of each minute. Then, Stop Bath for 30 secs of agitating continually. Then, Fixer for 4 minutes, agitating the first minute and then a few times at the start of each. Then, I washed it for about 2 minutes then photo-flo. The film was Kodak professional B + W400cn I think. I don't like it as much as the fine grain Ilford i've been using but it's kind of expensive and I have to order it. I was thinking of trying a few rolls of that arista.

KenC - I think it may be underdeveloped, but I'm going to play with the contrast a little too on the scanner. I just got it two days ago so still learning the curve so I'll have to mess around to find the settings. What exactly does underexposed mean, like what would I have done to make it underexposed. For the composition, for the edge of the table, do you mean the edge on the right hand side or on the right under side where the edge cuts off into the darkness? I don't like that as well, but the cut off to the wall on the right hand side of the photo doesn't bother me much?

Thanks to both!

 

[timor]

Timor - I used Tmax developer for 5:30, agitating the first minute continually and then a few times at the start of each minute. Then, Stop Bath for 30 secs of agitating continually. Then, Fixer for 4 minutes, agitating the first minute and then a few times at the start of each. Then, I washed it for about 2 minutes then photo-flo. The film was Kodak professional B + W400cn I think. I don't like it as much as the fine grain Ilford i've been using but it's kind of expensive and I have to order it. I was thinking of trying a few rolls of that arista.

So, you did use b&w chemicals on C-41 process film. Not bad. I presume Tmax Dev. was used in standard dilution of 1+4 and the temperature was around 20 C. You should wash film longer, then 2 min. 10 to 15 in continuous flow at 20 C. water right from the tap may be too cold for effective wash.
Arista; two kinds: premium - only ISO400 and it is Kodak TX, or Edu - ISO 100,200 and 400, film is made by Foma. Looks like Foma is slow with production:
Search Results For film - Freestyle Photographic Supplies

 

[KenC]

I meant the table edge on the right, where you can see part of a chair and the floor in the background. Pushing all the objects further into the middle of the table would have produced a cleaner background. Not a big flaw, but at least for me that would have been better.

 

[Helter]

Timor - I used Tmax developer for 5:30, agitating the first minute continually and then a few times at the start of each minute. Then, Stop Bath for 30 secs of agitating continually. Then, Fixer for 4 minutes, agitating the first minute and then a few times at the start of each. Then, I washed it for about 2 minutes then photo-flo. The film was Kodak professional B + W400cn I think. I don't like it as much as the fine grain Ilford i've been using but it's kind of expensive and I have to order it. I was thinking of trying a few rolls of that arista.

So, you did use b&w chemicals on C-41 process film. Not bad. I presume Tmax Dev. was used in standard dilution of 1+4 and the temperature was around 20 C. You should wash film longer, then 2 min. 10 to 15 in continuous flow at 20 C. water right from the tap may be too cold for effective wash.
Arista; two kinds: premium - only ISO400 and it is Kodak TX, or Edu - ISO 100,200 and 400, film is made by Foma. Looks like Foma is slow with production:
Search Results For film - Freestyle Photographic Supplies

Yes, I didn't quite know what C-41 meant but saw it on the box. I just went with the normal way I think? Also, do you know much about film? Do you know any cheaper rolls that are similar to Ilford Delta Pro 400? I like it the best out of what I use but ordering it is almost a luxury as I don't really have much cash for film at the moment. Oh and yes standard dilution and temperature.

 

[Helter]

I meant the table edge on the right, where you can see part of a chair and the floor in the background. Pushing all the objects further into the middle of the table would have produced a cleaner background. Not a big flaw, but at least for me that would have been better.

Oh ok now I see what you mean. It was my intention to have the couch showing for the feeling of like sitting around on a couch all day but it came out a little darker than expected but moving them to center seems like it would have made it better with still being able to do that.

 

[timor]

Yes, I didn't quite know what C-41 meant but saw it on the box. I just went with the normal way I think? Also, do you know much about film? Do you know any cheaper rolls that are similar to Ilford Delta Pro 400? I like it the best out of what I use but ordering it is almost a luxury as I don't really have much cash for film at the moment. Oh and yes standard dilution and temperature.

C-41 is a process for color negative film:
C-41 process - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Kodak BW400CN is a film producing b&w images but is developed in standard machines and chemicals for color. Like in "1-hour-photo service". Also prints on color paper.
There is no replacement for Delta 400, you can use Kodak TMY (Tmax 400) or Fujifilm Neopan 400 instead, but it will be not cheaper. This films have flat or tabular type of silver halide crystals and are the latest in b&w film technology.
Tabular-grain film - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
http://www.kodak.com/US/plugins/acrobat/en/motion/support/h1/H1_23-27.pdf
You had have a success with C-41 film, maybe you can buy from a Craigslist some film stock. Color or b&w.