I'm here To Learn

[vintagesnaps]

Since you want an Argus you might take a look at ShopGoodwill. Kind of a crap shoot, the cameras are as-is, usually no returns. The store that listed it may not know working condition and from the pictures you can't always tell.

I like midcentury bakelite, etc. so if I get one and it doesn't work I'll display it or tinker with it.

Was just thinking of Pacific Rim Camera, they aren't necessarily the cheapest (but have some fine cameras) but it looks like they have a bazillion C-3s in varying conditions. Good to buy from, you'd probably have it in a few days.

Pacific Rim Camera test

 

[limr]

Since you want an Argus you might take a look at ShopGoodwill. Kind of a crap shoot, the cameras are as-is, usually no returns. The store that listed it may not know working condition and from the pictures you can't always tell.

I like midcentury bakelite, etc. so if I get one and it doesn't work I'll display it or tinker with it.

Was just thinking of Pacific Rim Camera, they aren't necessarily the cheapest (but have some fine cameras) but it looks like they have a bazillion C-3s in varying conditions. Good to buy from, you'd probably have it in a few days.

Pacific Rim Camera test

Well, it's also true that just about every single "antiques" store (I tend more towards the junk shops rather than the "real" antiques, thus the quotation marks ) has a C-3. It's almost a requirement. It's become a game that Buzz and I play every time we go into an antiques place (and we go into a LOT of them.) "Did you find a brick yet?" "Yeah, it's in the back corner on the 3rd shelf." There's always a brick.

 

[wfooshee]

.... And you read my mind about just scanning the negatives. The place I plan on going to will put them on a CD for just a few bucks more. And I'm definitely going to invest in my own scanner when I get the money for it. Was already checking some out and it seems like a top quality one will run you about $250+.

And I will def be in the film photography forum soon.

Make sure the files put on the CD are high enough resolution. I sent a roll off and stated "negatives only - no prints" on the envelope the film went off in. They returned a CD with 1.5-mp files and NO negatives.The files were less than 1500 pixels on the long edge, when my camera files are almost 5000! I literally threw the package at the clerk and hit him in the face with it, then left before store security could show up. Not the best behavior, but there was NO recovering those shots! Those CD files might have been adequate for a 4 x 6 print but I don't think so, and I obviously had NO control over the scanning parameters.

Everything I said in my earlier post in this thread about losing control of the process applies to getting CDs from the processor. They, or their machine, decides how it should look.

I would very strongly recommend that you make SURE the CD files are at least 10 MP, which would be about 4000 pixels on the long edge. If they can't do that, go elsewhere.

 

[May Baby]

.... And you read my mind about just scanning the negatives. The place I plan on going to will put them on a CD for just a few bucks more. And I'm definitely going to invest in my own scanner when I get the money for it. Was already checking some out and it seems like a top quality one will run you about $250+.

And I will def be in the film photography forum soon.

Make sure the files put on the CD are high enough resolution. I sent a roll off and stated "negatives only - no prints" on the envelope the film went off in. They returned a CD with 1.5-mp files and NO negatives.The files were less than 1500 pixels on the long edge, when my camera files are almost 5000! I literally threw the package at the clerk and hit him in the face with it, then left before store security could show up. Not the best behavior, but there was NO recovering those shots! Those CD files might have been adequate for a 4 x 6 print but I don't think so, and I obviously had NO control over the scanning parameters.

Everything I said in my earlier post in this thread about losing control of the process applies to getting CDs from the processor. They, or their machine, decides how it should look.

I would very strongly recommend that you make SURE the CD files are at least 10 MP, which would be about 4000 pixels on the long edge. If they can't do that, go elsewhere.

Duly noted. Although I'm a little confused so I'll reach out to you for more info when that time comes.

 

[Designer]

Make sure the files put on the CD are high enough resolution. I sent a roll off and stated "negatives only - no prints" on the envelope the film went off in. They returned a CD with 1.5-mp files and NO negatives.The files were less than 1500 pixels on the long edge, when my camera files are almost 5000! I literally threw the package at the clerk and hit him in the face with it, then left before store security could show up. Not the best behavior, but there was NO recovering those shots! Those CD files might have been adequate for a 4 x 6 print but I don't think so, and I obviously had NO control over the scanning parameters.

Go ahead and publish the name and address of that store.

 

[limr]

I have to say that throwing a CD in someone's face was definitely an overreaction and poor behavior. 1.5MP is ample resolution to print much larger than 4x6 and even moreso considering most images these days never make it off the computer. Insisting on 10MP per file is like shooting at a fly with a shotgun.

 

[May Baby]

Welp here it is, my 35mm film starter kit...

The glass has a lil bit of dust which kinda worries me but they say it shouldn't affect picture quality.

Couple of scratches n scrapes but nothing too serious.

Once again, more dust on the view finder that worries me a bit.

More details of the body.

Now the lens, a lil bit of dust and some wear but looks fine to me I guess.

And last, the two rolls of film I was able to afford.

Overall I feel like it was worth $54 and perfectly matches the description of the E- grade that Adorama gave it. Will definitely purchase from them.

Now I'm going to read the manual, play with it without film in it, and continue to read some more on beginners photography before I start to shoot.

 

[May Baby]

 

[limr]

Nice! Congrats!

Don't worry about dust in the viewfinder. Doesn't affect the pictures at all. If you're worried about the dust on the inside, use a bulb blower (Amazon.com PWOW Super Blower Dust Cleaning Tools Air Pump Cleaner Squeeze-Bulb for Camera Lens UV CPL Filter CCD LCD CMOS and Other Electronic Devices Black Camera Photo Be very careful especially with the mirror. Some cleaning fluids can take the coating off, so you want to just blow it or use a gentle brush.

Now read that manual and get shooting!

As for developing, as mentioned, you have local option in Manhattan, so you're luckier than a lot of people who have no choice but to send their film out. Wherever you go, make sure they will give you your negatives back. And please don't throw anything in anyone's face, yeah?

 

[Derrel]

I'd worry more about the condition and state of repair/fitness of the foam light sealing matrial around the inner back area more than ANYTHING else...

 

[wfooshee]

Make sure the files put on the CD are high enough resolution. I sent a roll off and stated "negatives only - no prints" on the envelope the film went off in. They returned a CD with 1.5-mp files and NO negatives.The files were less than 1500 pixels on the long edge, when my camera files are almost 5000! I literally threw the package at the clerk and hit him in the face with it, then left before store security could show up. Not the best behavior, but there was NO recovering those shots! Those CD files might have been adequate for a 4 x 6 print but I don't think so, and I obviously had NO control over the scanning parameters.

Go ahead and publish the name and address of that store.

Not sure any more. I used to use Walmart and Walgreen's pretty much interchangeably, just marking the envelope "Negatives only, no prints." I always got my negatives, ready to scan, and it was much cheaper than their useless prints. One day that package came back with the CD and double prints. The clerk told me they don't return negatives any more, just the CD. I said my instruction on the package were negatives only, and if they weren't willing to do that they should have simply returned it unprocessed, because obviously I didn't want prints. When I went to show him where I'd written the instructions I saw that the package wasn't even in my same envelope!!!!

Both locations now have a sign on the box saying they don't return negatives, so they both are photolab non grata for me. I know that Walmart is not the king of photo labs, but when all you're doing is developing negatives, which is formulaic and has no judgement involved, how can they possibly screw it up? Yet they found a way!!!

 

[May Baby]

Well now I've managed to get a ****ing fingerprint on my lens!

Please give me some help on to clean it cause I'm pretty sure this will end up affecting my photo quality.

 

[vintagesnaps]

I use a microfiber cloth made for lenses or eyeglasses. I try to not use it dry especially if it's dust or debris that could scratch the lens if spread around. I get cleaner made for lenses and squirt on the cloth not the lens. Or in a pinch I do what you're not supposed to do (who knew, I find out after years of doing this) - I breathe on the lens and then use the cloth. Or the tail of my Tshirt (probably very bad bad shame on me! lol).

For dust I use a soft brush made to use on a lens. In the viewfinder, I just ignore the dust spots! lol Used to looking thru/around them I guess. But I do usually carry a microfiber cloth with me, in my camera bag in case I manage to get a smear on a lens.

 

[Designer]

Not as much as you imagine. Just get some lens cleaner. Any optometrist has the stuff. Get a microfiber cloth (same place) and put one or two DROPS on one corner of the cloth. Wipe from the edges toward the middle, and when all the liquid is gone, trade corners and lightly buff the lens.

Check the rear element too.

 

[May Baby]

I use a microfiber cloth made for lenses or eyeglasses. I try to not use it dry especially if it's dust or debris that could scratch the lens if spread around. I get cleaner made for lenses and squirt on the cloth not the lens. Or in a pinch I do what you're not supposed to do (who knew, I find out after years of doing this) - I breathe on the lens and then use the cloth. Or the tail of my Tshirt (probably very bad bad shame on me! lol).

For dust I use a soft brush made to use on a lens. In the viewfinder, I just ignore the dust spots! lol Used to looking thru/around them I guess. But I do usually carry a microfiber cloth with me, in my camera bag in case I manage to get a smear on a lens.

Not as much as you imagine. Just get some lens cleaner. Any optometrist has the stuff. Get a microfiber cloth (same place) and put one or two DROPS on one corner of the cloth. Wipe from the edges toward the middle, and when all the liquid is gone, trade corners and lightly buff the lens.

Check the rear element too.

Googled optometrist near me, found one that's literally like only four blocks away, called and said he'll give it to me for free.