In Camera sharpening D7000?

[NancyMoranG]

I have seen several comments regarding the 7000 being able to do in-camera sharpening. I do not see it in my manual, any help?
Nancy

 

[goodguy]

Set Up Menu

Then

AF Fine Tune

Had a LONG love hate relations with my D7000 all around the focusing issues with the camera, first after understanding its not the operator fault I took the camera to Nikon and they improved the problem but not complitly resolved the problem, then I went and started to research how to Fine Tune myself each lens to the camera.
That was VERY helpful sadly not 100%
Being a perfectionist with my hobbies I eventually gave up and moved to the D7100 which to my joy is Sooooo sharp that its AMAIZING!!!

Here is a clip which I found very helpful in my past quest



Good luck

 

[480sparky]

Pages 131 and 134.

 

[CaptainNapalm]

Hi Nancy,

Menu > Shooting Menu > Set Picture Control > Standard - You'll be able to adjust sharpening from there.

By default the sharpening will be set to 3, most recommend bumping it up to 6 or 7.

 

[NancyMoranG]

Wow, thanks all!
Nancy

 

[goodguy]

Hi Nancy,

Menu > Shooting Menu > Set Picture Control > Standard - You'll be able to adjust sharpening from there.

By default the sharpening will be set to 3, most recommend bumping it up to 6 or 7.

I guess I miss understood the question

 

[greybeard]

It is a process the camera applies to JPEG files the camera creates.

 

[KmH]

And it applies the sharpening equally to the entire image (globally) and offers little in the way of subtle adjustment.
Indeed, in Adobe image editing software there are as many as 4 sliders that can be adjusted.

Sharpening is a fairly involved process. Involved enough that an entire book can be written on the subject.
Real World Image Sharpening with Adobe Photoshop, Camera Raw, and Lightroom (2nd Edition)

In many instances it is counter productive to globally sharpen an image.
A typical case is when an image was made in such a way to blur the background. Why sharpen a part of the image you took pains to blur?

 

[DarkShadow]

Agree with this^^ I recently just started using Aperture and post sharpening is so much better then iPhoto or in Camera Jpeg.Aperture allows me to select the sharpening brush size and only sharpen areas I want.If I have acceptable noise in shadow areas, I wouldn't want to sharpen in that area.

 

[NancyMoranG]

Thank you Keith, DarkShadow for the follow up. Makes sense.
Nancy

 

[supercool2]

so let me see if I understand the replies correctly about sharpening affecting the areas I don't want sharpened. If I like to shoot portraits with lots of bokeh ( for my kids ) then I should make sure the in camera sharpening is less, and do more of it in post processing? OR I could just switch to "portrait" for picture controls (I usually have it standard, or some times vivid) and lower the sharpening affect for that particular setting,right?

Also another question on this topic. I thought I read some where that the in camera sharpening won't be applied to raw images, ONLY the ones shot already as jpg. Is this correct?

And going a little off topic, but to also elaborate & ask further questions:

So if that were true about it not doing sharpening with raw (in camera), what about those times I do in camera edits,where it automatically changes the new edited version of that raw to a jpg. Then does it apply the sharpening to that new edited jpg? I don't do this a lot, but sometimes I do to save time, if its something minor like a quick exposure change or feature i would otherwise be doing on my computer. I like this because it still saves the original raw also. Because when I go to do editing on the computer (basic stuff like exposure/sharpening/contrast/white balance only I don't have photo shop) I have two copies of all my "keeper" pictures onto my hard drive, and external hard drive. One copy is the original raw, and the other is the edited jpg. When I edit a raw the viewnx 2 program will keep that raw image edited, so in order for me to keep the *original* un edited raw from permanently staying edited, I have to do a "save as" convert to jpg, so I will have both original unedited raw AND the saved version as a jpg.
If you ask why do I do this, its so later on when I do learn photo shop and how to use light room, and want to choose to go back and edit my past pictures, I can have the option to do so. Saving a copy as a edited jpg is so I can use any of them for internet use (face book,etc..) or print out if I want to use them now.

 

[bc_steve]

so let me see if I understand the replies correctly about sharpening affecting the areas I don't want sharpened. If I like to shoot portraits with lots of bokeh ( for my kids ) then I should make sure the in camera sharpening is less, and do more of it in post processing? OR I could just switch to "portrait" for picture controls (I usually have it standard, or some times vivid) and lower the sharpening affect for that particular setting,right?

Not really sure what the portrait setting does, but I would recommend shooting in RAW. There won't be any in-camera sharpening, it will happen on your computer when you convert it from a RAW file (but you will have control over it). This will be a global sharpening. In something like photoshop, you can select an area of the picture and then do some additionally sharpening in that area (ie your subject, but not the background). This will keep the blurred background from becoming noisy.

Not sure what happens when you do in-camera edits .... never really done it.

 

[supercool2]

I just came across this tutorial and the ones to watch before it (to see if there is even a problem in the first place) And I found it to be informative.
I hope to make time to try this out on my D7100. What's interesting is the person making this video (its from 2010) says only the higher end cameras have those settings that he/she used for this tutorial. But i found all the same settings in my camera. The only thing my camera does not have is the connector for a remote shutter cord thing called the pc. And all the controls found on the camera body (that he was using on his D3 or D4 I think) can be found in my camera's settings,or other places. So hopefully this should still work for a d7000

 

[Gavjenks]

If you don't know what you are doing and don't want to read a lot about how to sharpen really well, and/or don't want to use RAW files, then the in-camera sharpening is fairly decent. Especially if what you do with most photos is print them at 4x5 size or post them on facebook at 1/10th their resolution.

If you are willing to put in the time to learn the skill and take a bit longer per photo, though, and plan on making large prints or need high fidelity files, then you should look into sharpening yourself, because being able to fine-tune it to the photo will yield higher results almost always.

Doing it yourself half-arsed though probably won't yield much better results than the jpeg sharpening in-body.

 

[CaptainNapalm]

The in camera sharpening is only applied to JPEG files. I assume the OP is not looking to spend much time post processing otherwise they'd be shooting in RAW, in which case it's worthwhile increasing the in camera sharpening on the D7000 because the images do come out a bit soft otherwise. I shoot both RAW and jpeg and have my sharpness up because with no post processing in more cases than otherwise the adjusted in camera sharpening results in better straight out of the camera images. If I want to invest time in doing my own post sharpening I resort to the RAW version. Nothing wrong with manipulating how your camera processes JPEGs