ISO 3200 Usable on Canon 30D?

[JerryPH]

Your biggest problem is shooting at F4 it just won't cut it you need to be at minimum F2.8 or lower your shots are at least 2 stops underexposed

2.8 to 4 is 1 stop. If he is at least 2 stops under, he's still in the same boat... underexposed. What would you suggest he do at this point? Using a lens faster than F/2.8 is possible, but then DOF is so thin that in an action shot, he will have a VERY hard time getting the fast moving subject in focus long enough to get the shot. Also, at a game most amateur photographers are not always allowed to get down to the sidelines with their 50mm F/1.8, so all you get are a lot of wide and "not very good" shots. One could use continual focus mode, that would help some, but you still are going to get a lot of pics with an uber-shallow DOF.

On my camera, I am VERY fortunate to be able to use ISO 6400 or higher, and raise aperture to something like F/5.6 and still get high shutter speeds... but this is not the case for the OP.

 

[feRRari4756]

Okay, well right now I cannot afford a fast glass or new camera, so my only option is to raise the ISO.

I was shooting in full manual, so I guess my camera was not underexposing because i had full control over the camera. I did not change the metering system though? Should I change any of those setting along with my ISO?

And I knew those santa pics were underexposed. It was like 12:30 in the morning and used NO flash and there was EXTREMLY little light (I would consider it no light at all). And I know with those conditions, the only way to get a nice exposure is turn down that shutter speed and use a tripod. And I was not doing that that late at night lol. So no, its not my camera.

 

[JerryPH]

On those conditions:
- you should be in shutter priority mode, set it for the minimum speed required so you get the shots. Start at 1/125th and go faster *if* needed.

- you should be using SPOT metering mode

- ISO should be set to ISO 3200.

- Exposure compensation should be 0

That's it.

Previously, if you were in full manual, I can guarantee you that you were not paying attention to the meter. If you did, you would have seen it was showing you the fact that you did not have enough light to take the shots. The meter should be centered for a close to proper exposure.

 

[feRRari4756]

Okay thanks. By "meter being centered" what do you mean? Do you mean the histogram? Or something with the metering modes? What should be centered?

THANKS!

 

[gsgary]

2.8 to 4 is 1 stop. If he is at least 2 stops under, he's still in the same boat... underexposed. What would you suggest he do at this point? Using a lens faster than F/2.8 is possible, but then DOF is so thin that in an action shot, he will have a VERY hard time getting the fast moving subject in focus long enough to get the shot. Also, at a game most amateur photographers are not always allowed to get down to the sidelines with their 50mm F/1.8, so all you get are a lot of wide and "not very good" shots. One could use continual focus mode, that would help some, but you still are going to get a lot of pics with an uber-shallow DOF.

On my camera, I am VERY fortunate to be able to use ISO 6400 or higher, and raise aperture to something like F/5.6 and still get high shutter speeds... but this is not the case for the OP.

Yes but he is shooting at ISO1600 so that will give him 1 more stop and if he shoot a bit slower that will give him a bit more

 

[gsgary]

Okay, well right now I cannot afford a fast glass or new camera, so my only option is to raise the ISO.

I was shooting in full manual, so I guess my camera was not underexposing because i had full control over the camera. I did not change the metering system though? Should I change any of those setting along with my ISO?

And I knew those santa pics were underexposed. It was like 12:30 in the morning and used NO flash and there was EXTREMLY little light (I would consider it no light at all). And I know with those conditions, the only way to get a nice exposure is turn down that shutter speed and use a tripod. And I was not doing that that late at night lol. So no, its not my camera.

Check the histogram, way underexposed i just had a look which means it's not camera error but user error

 

[gsgary]

On those conditions:
- you should be in shutter priority mode, set it for the minimum speed required so you get the shots. Start at 1/125th and go faster *if* needed.

- you should be using SPOT metering mode

- ISO should be set to ISO 3200.

- Exposure compensation should be 0

That's it.

Previously, if you were in full manual, I can guarantee you that you were not paying attention to the meter. If you did, you would have seen it was showing you the fact that you did not have enough light to take the shots. The meter should be centered for a close to proper exposure.

Aperture proiority will give you the fastest shutter speed for the largest aperture you have, using shutter priority will underexpose

 

[feRRari4756]

Okay so basically I use Shutter Priority at tISO 3200 and probably underexpose

OR

I use Aperture Priority at ISO 3200 and posibbly get blurry images.

 

[Joves]

Use shutter priority because the camera should hold the aperture wide open in that case. I personally might try going to the plus side on Exposure Compensation. Since it is digital you may try it before hand to see how it works before you start shooting with some test shots. If it doesnt help then dont use it, it is just that simple.

 

[Katier]

Actually fast glass need not be expensive. Just as a for example my f1.7 50mm Lens cost me around £30 ( it's a manual focus, PKA fit ) so one option if your doing indoors work is to explore that option. It's not perfect as manual focusing AF bodies can require a little practice - although I've never had a problem - and you'd need an adapter.

 

[feRRari4756]

yeah. I already have a 50mm prime f/1.8 Canon EF AF lens, but that wont be me close enough to the action.

 

[Katier]

Could try a 2xteleconverter.. That'll give you a 100mm but you'll lose some light in the process. Still should be better than f4 though.

 

[table1349]

Okay so basically I use Shutter Priority at tISO 3200 and probably underexpose

OR

I use Aperture Priority at ISO 3200 and posibbly get blurry images.

Or you get a better understanding of how they all work together and let their strengths work for you, with out making this too terribly hard.

Sports is my favored form of photography. Indoor shooting, while in some ways more demanding, is pretty consistent when it comes to lighting, once you understand what you have, it is not usually one of the thing that is all that difficult to overcome. At least compared to shooting outdoors in changing light.

First, fast glass is preferred for indoor sports for the obvious reason that it allows more latitude to use shutter speed, aperture and ISO. F 2.8 is really a minimum in most indoor venues to get the settings you want with out pushing you ISO to the limit or not having enough ISO to work. If you have no choice then you push you ISO. Use your fastest glass and crop a bit to get the photo you want. At least it gets you in the ball park.

First thing to do is get to know your venue or venues you are shooting in. Most venues, while having anything from adequate to just above midnight during an eclipse lighting, have pretty even lighting across the court. Unless the custodian is too lazy to get out the big ladder and replace a burnt out light bulb. This makes it simpler. You should be able to dial in your settings and shoot. I normally shoot manual, and always do indoors. One less thing to worry about.

Get to the venue early and meter the court. It is easier with a hand held meter, but if all you have is the in camera meter use it. Meter the different areas of the court where the action will take place. Find the dark spot, if there is one and set your camera for it. Unless the place is really freaky, you should not have any overexposure issues with other locations on the court.

If you don't trust yourself in manual then shoot AV. In AV you control you shutter speed with your ISO. You want as low of an ISO as you can shoot with, while still maintaining a shutter speed of no less than 1/250th. 1/320th would of course be better.

Set you Aperture as wide as it will go. The difference between a nice sports shot and an outstanding sports shot is capturing the action. That mean just capturing the action. Being able to read Suzie's T-shirt logo when she is in the third row is not what you are looking for. A shallow DOF will make the action pop from the background. In AV a shallow DOF will remain a constant.

Now start moving your ISO up until you have the required shutter speed. 800, Outstanding. 1250, still pretty darn good. 1600 you are good to go. 3200...Still good to go. A properly exposed shot that is in focus with the action frozen with some noise is better than a shot with motion blur or one that is out of focus. Neither of those problems is correctable in post processing, noise can be.

Next thing, practice, practice, practice. The athletes on the court or field do, so should you. Before any season starts, I get with the coachs of the college I shoot for and get a practice schedule. I get out there when they practice and shoot them. Gets me thinking about the sport I am going to shoot, as they all have their own nuances when shooting.

One of those nuances is the players themselves. Get to know them and what the can and can't/don't do on the court or field. Sports photography is about anticipation. If you know who your shooters are concentrate on them when they have the ball. On defense, concentrate on the better defensive players.

Lastly, I tell this to all parents that shoot. If you kid is playing you have only one of two choices. Be a parent and watch the game, or be a photographer and record the action. You can not do both. If you are watching the game you are not anticipating what will occur. By the time you recognize that there was something to shoot, it is too late. That camera should be glued to your face and you should be tracking the action through the viewfinder. You don't care about the score, who wins or looses or anything else except good action. If you do, then you are going to miss great shots. Sports photography is demanding and you have to concentrate on it entirely when you are shooting or you will miss shots. Good luck and have fun.

 

[feRRari4756]

Thanks everybody for all your help! Especially "gry" for taking the time to write that extensive and conclusive post.

I MAY be able to get out to the gym this week (before the weekend) because I am shootin cheerleading in in next weekend.

 

[gsgary]

Use shutter priority because the camera should hold the aperture wide open in that case. I personally might try going to the plus side on Exposure Compensation. Since it is digital you may try it before hand to see how it works before you start shooting with some test shots. If it doesnt help then dont use it, it is just that simple.

That is rubbish, aperture priority will give you the fastest shutter speed with correct exposure but becaus his lens is not capable of shooting in these conditions you will always have problems