The more specific you can be about what you want to achieve, the more satisfied you will be with what you purchase.
Most buyers start by saying "I just want something that can take great landscape photos". That's a wonderful place to start. But if you can become more specific, you will be happier in the end.
For example, knowing what I love about landscape photos already, I would say I need two different lenses; an ultrawide, and a normal zoom. I would also need neutral density filters, and a good tripod.
What I would say is this: "I want a lens for landscapes that can elongate the foreground, and help reproduce the drama that I feel an environment." It is my philosophy that photography isn't about capturing what is objectively in front of you, but instead producing an image that reflects how you feel about what you are seeing. In many cases, those two things are indistinguishable from one-another to someone. That is, the girl who says "Why don't my sunset photos ever look like what I want them to look like" is really saying (unknowingly): "I wish my photos reflected what I feel I am seeing." When you experience a sunset, you combine what you see with how you feel about what you see. A quick snap usually won't capture that. A carefully constructed photo can.
Here is an example of a photograph that has been carefully constructed:
Celestial Bridge. While the author says it is a panorama of 21 images, it is likely an HDR panorama. What that means is that it is likely 7 frames shot portrait style, each frame with 3 exposures, and stitched together to make a landscape oriented photograph. Such a photograph can be achieved in less frames (1-3). However, this photography illustrates Astrophotography and long exposure photography mixed together. Note that astrophotography usually demands a long exposure, but primarily for the purpose of capturing enough light. By contrast, the water in the photograph is glassy due to the long exposure.
Long-exposure photography is a form of photography that helps fuse time into a photograph. Infusing time into a photograph is something a lot of people want to do, but they don't know they want that... and most people certainly don't know how to do so.
The long-winded answer to your question comes to this: Look at different forms of landscape photography. There are many. One lens can achieve many different looks, too. A 24mm lens can still do long-exposure as much as a 10mm lens can. However, a 24mm lens will capture about how much you see in an environment, but stretch it out a little more than you see it. A 10mm lens will capture more than you see in an environment, and stretch it out a lot more. A 35mm (DX) lens will capture less than you see, but things will be no more elongated or shortened than what your eye sees. You might purchase a 24mm lens with the intention of stitching panoramas together (since 24mm primes will be fairly good for producing straight lines, with some minor adjustments in Lightroom or Photoshop).
A shorter answer is as follows: If you're looking to do astrophotography, and general landscapes, first cut out any lens that shoots slower than f2.8. Then look at what fits your needs. I would suggest that you start with the 11-16 Tokina f2.8 (newer pro version), so long as ultrawide is what you want.
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