Becky:
Whoops! I stand corrected; but that's what happens when I post a response late in the evening. Actually, a 50mm F/1.0 lens transmits
four times as much light as a 50mm F/2.0.
The difference between F/stops is also a mathematical relationship. If you square a F/1.0 lens aperature, i.e. "1", you'll get "1"; but if you square an F/2.0 lens aperture, i.e. "2", you'll get "4". By dividing the higher number by the lower number, i.e. 4 divided by 1; there will be a four times
greater difference in the transmission of light.
F Duddy: As a matter of fact, the area of a circle is calculated "different" in my area of the world, especially, when it is late at night and my mind is in the "foggy bottoms". In the morning, when I am awake, there is still another method of calculation. :>) I am surprised that you didn't know that. ;>)
Becky:
I am not really certain that BernieSC's comments are all that helpful, since you seem to be at a point where you are choosing your basic camera gear and/or deciding whether you will purchase an additional lens to your basic camera gear.
Perhaps, the following story will be of some help.
Decades ago, I purchased a used Honeywell H3V camera, a manual camera that didn't have a through the lens metering system, but rather had a clip on meter that was integrated with the shutter speed. This camera came with the "standard" 50mm F/1.8, which was entirely suitable for this then beginning photographer.
Since I enjoyed doing candid portraiture - shooting pictures of people without them knowing it (mostly) and since I thought that I would also enjoy the photography of small animals, I "decided" that the "wisest" choice would be to choose the 200mm F/4.0 Honeywell (Takumar) lens.
It was the poorest choice that I ever made - photographically. If I tried to take candid portraits in the home; the magnification of the lens (4 times in comparison to the 50mm lens, i.e. 200 / 50 = 4) was so great that I would have had to shoot through either a window outside of the house or walk into the next room in order to get some distance between me and the subject - just to get a nice "head" shot.
By the same token, this 200mm lens was too "short", i.e. didn't "magnify" the subject sufficiently enough (bring the subject close enough) when I wanted to take photographs of birds, squirrels, and/or pets. In order to take photographs of such small animals, I would have had to move in closer to fill the frame, something which would have, of course, scared them away in most cases.
So my supposedly "wise" choice at that period of my photographic endeavors was practically useless.
In the meantime, I decided that what I really (mainly) wanted to photograph was candid shots of people under all sorts of available light conditions and I wanted to be certain of rapid and accurate focus as well as far better photographic results, so I traded all of my small Pentax collection in for a Leica M-4 rangefinder camera with the DR (Dual Range) Summicron lens - F/2.0, which was then about a $100.00 more than a Pentax, Canon, or Nikon camera with a 50mm F/1.4 lens.
My first additional Leica lens was the 135mm Hektor F/4.5 and I choose that because one of our customers in the camera shop where I was working traded in his Leica rangefinder equipment for the then new Leicaflex SL. Obviously, this person was a doctor and I was then relatively poor and was able to charge it (about $115.00) to my account at the shop.
Although it is an older design, I wouldn't part with this old lens for the world. For one, it suffers from a little "curvature of field" at wide open, which makes it a wonderful portrait lens, since the image - wide open - gives a nice "soft" effect on the edges when used wide open to about 1 stop closed down. If I stop the lens down further F/6.3 or more, the images are sharp and full of fine detail from corner to corner.
In addition, this old lens closes down to F/32, which makes it very suitable for a little extra depth of field, when and if needed, when I am using the lens head in conjunction with the Visoflex III and the Bellows II for macrophotography - photographing at a ratio of reproduction from 1:3 to 1:1 or greater.
Although the addition of the 135mm Hektor F/4.5 was my first (wiser" choice, I found that this focal length put a greater distance between me and the person whom I was photographing. Although I wanted to shoot portraits in a candid fashion, I also found out that I enjoy talking with the people I was photographing. So my next purchase was the 90mm Summicron F/2.0.
The "moral" of this story is that there is no "ideal" camera/lens combination simply because one's photographic endeavors or interests do change.
Although I do have a zoom lens for our Canon AE-1 and A-1 cameras - a Canon FD 70 to 150mm, both Sue and I use our "prime" (fixed focal length) lenses 90-95 percent of the time, because they are simpler to use; generally have a wider aperture - thus greater light transmission to both the viewfinder and to the film; and they weigh less.
In addition, lens designers cannot possibly make the needed optical corrections to all of the focal lengths within a zoom lens focal length, i.e. the 28mm to 90mm range that you seem to be interested in purchasing. At one or at several points, the optical image is going to suffer and you won't be able to obtain the best photographic results in comparison to a "prime" lens. And at one point in the zoom's focal length, your images may suffer from either "barrel" or "pincushion" distortion - where straight lines at the edges will either "barrel" out or "pincushion" inward. On the "positive" side, zoom lens design has improved over the years, but I still suspect that highly corrected and high quality zoom lens are few and far between.
If you wish to check out some reviews of a high quality zoom lens; here's a link.
http://photosig.pcphotoreview.com/cat/pcphotoreview/digital-accessories/lenses/35mm-zoom/leica/PRD_83476_3128crx.aspx
From the brief information you have given, I suspect that you may have a limited budget. If that's the case, you may wish to - tentatively - purchase the 28mm to 90mm zoom lens and then spend a great deal of time - like a year or two - exploring all aspects of your initial investment, before choosing to add another lens to your pallet of choices.
More to come - later.
Again, I hope that this discussion has been useful.
Best wishes in your photographic endeavors!
Bill