Macro Question

[kaseamfoto]

How do people take extremely close macro photos of bees, spiders, etc. I recently got the canon 100mm f 2.8 non L lens, and I can't for the life of me focus my lens manually to get a sharp photo like some people here. Are those people using other special equipment allowing them to focus at a much closer distance?

 

[2WheelPhoto]

How do people take extremely close macro photos of bees, spiders, etc. I recently got the canon 100mm f 2.8 non L lens, and I can't for the life of me focus my lens manually to get a sharp photo like some people here. Are those people using other special equipment allowing them to focus at a much closer distance?

I use a cheap set of kenko extension tubes, google them-

 

[kaseamfoto]

ahh, so it is the extension tubes that allow people to focus easier on closer subjects. What size extension tube is good for the 100mm?

 

[2WheelPhoto]

i bought the set of 3, the more extension you have the closer it will focus.

probably still not as good as a macro specific lens but it works well

 

[2WheelPhoto]

this is what I use: Kenko Auto Extension Tube Set DG for Nikon Lens AEXTUBEDGN B&H

 

[kaseamfoto]

I got the 100mm f/2.8 USM macro lens though. Would I still need tubes?

 

[Josh66]

I got the 100mm f/2.8 USM macro lens though. Would I still need tubes?

Only if you want to get closer than 1:1.

What camera are you using? A bigger, brighter viewfinder helps a lot for manual focusing.

Is the diopter adjusted properly?

 

[Overread16 4]

You should be able to get some very clear and sharp shots with the 100mm L macro - and some very close ones:

a bare macro lens with no extension tubes or any other adjustments to the lens save focusing.

If you can't get a clear shot at regular macro distances then adding extension tubes, or any other method of magnification gain is going to just present more difficulty whilst your still trying to master the basics.

First up if you've a few shots it would be handly to have a look at them - along side info such as:
1) settings used - aperture, ISO, shutterspeed (rightclicking on a photo file on your computer - going to properties and then details in the properties window should show the shooting settings. Most editing software will also have a menu option to show this data (called EXIF data).

2) lighting - were you using any, what was it like? Flash, sun, spotlights, reflectors etc...

3) Weather - was it still or windy - sunny or cloudy?

4) Your overall method of approach to taking the photo - just a general idea of how you've approached taking the photo, combining all the above points to give us an idea of how you're shooting and how you're going about things.

 

[Hatch1921]

If you can't get a clear shot at regular macro distances then adding extension tubes, or any other method of magnification gain is going to just present more difficulty whilst your still trying to master the basics.

Very true. Lots of good points by Overread.

Hatch

 

[kaseamfoto]

Nice info overhead.
1) I'm using 9-11 aperture , 100-200 iso , 1/250 shutter speed
2) using a external flash and a bright radiant sun.
3) not enough wind to cause motion blur.
4) using manual focus to get my shots, I would focus the subject, and approach it closer and closer until I can't focus the subject no more. There is a point where if I get to close to the subject I won't be able to focus in on it, so I got no idea how you got a great photo like that without any special equipment. Gosh, I suck at macro photography lol.

Also, what is the diopter? Is it that little wheel that adjusts the clearness of the Focus points in the viewfinder?

 

[Josh66]

4) using manual focus to get my shots, I would focus the subject, and approach it closer and closer until I can't focus the subject no more. There is a point where if I get to close to the subject I won't be able to focus in on it, so I got no idea how you got a great photo like that without any special equipment. Gosh, I suck at macro photography lol.

It sounds like you're just getting closer than the minimum focusing distance. If you want 1:1, set the lens to the shortest focusing distance, then slowly rock back and forth until the focus is where you want it.

I can't remember off the top of my head, but I believe the minimum focusing distance of that lens is something like 10 or 12 inches, which is measured from the sensor/film plane - so about 6 inches from the end of the lens.

Also, what is the diopter? Is it that little wheel that adjusts the clearness of the Focus points in the viewfinder?

Yes, that's it. Adjust it until the marks on the focusing screen (AF points and such) are at their sharpest.

 

[kaseamfoto]

Is there a particular way to achieve focus easier while trying to capture a subject on a 1:1 ratio? Would my only option be to walk back and forth until I get the focus I want?

 

[clarnibass]

Is there a particular way to achieve focus easier while trying to capture a subject on a 1:1 ratio? Would my only option be to walk back and forth until I get the focus I want?

For MF, either put the lens on the shortest focus distance, then get physically closer or away to focus, or hold the camera/lens at a distance not under the minimum focus distance and rotate the focus ring to focus. To me it also sounds like you are possibly trying to focus from too close than is possible for the lens.

 

[arne saknussen]

I found some really cheap close-up lenses. They screw onto your lens like a filter. They also work on the 100mm canon macro. I bought a set of four for under $12. Search for Neewer.
I would also suggest practicing on non moving objects. like coins, to get the hang of macro.

 

[Josh66]

Is there a particular way to achieve focus easier while trying to capture a subject on a 1:1 ratio? Would my only option be to walk back and forth until I get the focus I want?

Well, you wouldn't be walking back and forth... At 1:1, you'll just be sort of rocking your body - and not much either. The DOF is so small that you really only need to move the camera a half inch or so to focus where you want.


I don't know what else to tell you other than when it's sharp, take the picture, lol. If you're using a crop body with a penta-mirror instead of a penta-prism, and a tiny viewfinder - manual focusing is harder.

They make magnifiers that you can put on the viewfinder, that might help.

Canon Angle Finder C 2882A001 B&H Photo Video

This looks interesting too:
Seculine S2 (Type A) Digital Angle Finder S2A B&H Photo Video