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Major problems, blown LCD panel.

PhotoWrangler

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We used to have a Cactus trigger for our studio strobes. It got trashed when a light stand fell, but I kept the trigger part. The other day I ordered a cheap radio trigger just to trip the strobes. Since the old trigger and the new trigger looked so much alike, and they were both the same price/style, I figured they were both just cheap China knockoffs or whatnot. So I started using them both, and when they were both on the same channels they both tripped the strobes.

Until yesterday or day before. I started noticing that the strobes were firing too fast, or too slow. Below are the examples.

I also think that I just blew the LCD panel inside my viewfinder, which sucks because this D90 is brand friggin new. The little green meter and fstop information isn't lit up. Is it possible to blow something like that with the wrong trigger?

Old trigger,

Problems by ChristopherCoy, on Flickr

New trigger,

Problems-2 by ChristopherCoy, on Flickr

Old trigger on left, new trigger on right

Problems-3 by ChristopherCoy, on Flickr

Old trigger on left, new trigger on right

Problems-4 by ChristopherCoy, on Flickr
 
Great! Thanks for all the info!

I have a Chevy Camero and the tramsmission went out. I found this Ford transmission on sale and picked it up since they looked the same as the Chevy one. Had to drill a few new holes to mount it to the engine but it seemed to work only it shifted at a pretty high RPM. A few days ago I had to get clear up to 90mph to get it to shift into highway drive. What really sucks is now my speedometer has quit working and I have got 9 speeding tickets in the last three days. Do you think that putting a Ford transmission in my Chevy broke my speedometer and shouldn't it shift at the proper RPM's?

Just because they look the same does not mean they are the same or will work together properly. Do they operate on the exact same frequency? Are the channels on the exact same frequency when changing channels? Do they cause interference with each other in any way? As for the camera LCD who knows. Depends on what the electrical issues are with the different transmitters and receivers. Sounds to me like a trip to Nikon factor service is in order to find out what is wrong with the body and time to open the wallet and buy a set of triggers that work together.
 
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@Grypho - funny and harsh :)

@ Chrys - I personally never heard of trigger blowing out LCD screens. I've heard of flashes burning the cameras and flashes melting but never really triggers. The problems image, seems like you shot above the sync speed.

If you feel your gear is wacked out, call Nikon, tell them what you have going on and they might be able to troubleshoot you over the phone.

Good Luck
 
@Grypho - funny and harsh :)

Maybe so. But there are times it is better to ask questions before you try something rather than after to see if anyone has experience with the situation. Cheap is not always best. If NASA hadn't gone with the lowest bidder maybe there would be crews from Challenger and Columbia here on the ground. Both the O ring issue and the fuel tank foam issue were known, but no measures were made to correct them.

I use PW's because they function flawlessly and with each other. I have a multimax for triggering and PW II's for the studio. I hate paying for them cause they are expensive. But if one goes out, I will suck it up and replace it with another compatible PW product even though I detest the expensive price.
 
I use CyberSyncs. LOVE THEM!
:)
 
On the flip side my friend keeps fixing his Volvo with Ford parts because he works at a Ford workshop. This is more of an example we have here.

The vast majority of these simple triggers are clones of one another. They often use the same frequency and often don't do something as basic as send ID data to prevent setting off triggers from other manufacturers. I agree it pays to check, but very often with cheap electronics you get the exact same thing just with a different thing written on the box.
 

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