My first camera with manual controls (C&C?)

[simo110]

Nice pictures, only if you tried some interesting and creative compositions

 

[Glycerol Sound]

I don't know how to get more light in the foreground without overexposing the sunrise. I took a series of the same shot ranging from ISO-80 @ 15" to ISO-1600 @ 0.6" most at F2.0.

What you'd do to achieve this effect is shoot 3 or four different exposures of the same picture (at minimum, one "properly exposed", one over and then one under) and combine them in some sort of software like Photoshop or any other HDR software so you get the most definition out of each exposure in one exposure. This is called high dynamic range photography, and can be achieved a couple different ways, but this is the most common. I personally like the way you exposed it and have no issue with overbearing shadows (to a point of course). But to each his own.

A couple other things you could do now that you've already shot it:
1. Lower the contrast. This will lessen the extreme difference between light and dark in a photograph and this is my personal favorite method of solving the issue of here, it gives a very "dated" look that I like, especially in black and white.
2. Fake an HDR. Export a couple different versions of the photo, where you've adjusted the exposure in post production, and then combine them. You might not get quite as much definition but you will be a little bit closer.

Also, straighten your horizons

I really like these otherwise though, good work.

 

[Corvphotography]

the first pic is great in my opinion. maybe a tad longer of an exposure would have been pretty cool to see. I love the hole in the sky.

 

[Bobabooey24]

Great first pic!

 

[thatfornoobs]

Pictures seem overcrowded with darkness.

 

[aprock83]

I really like the 2nd pic, the way the light is shining through the clouds give it a nice feel.

 

[3bayjunkie]

I am not sure why your sky is so blown out. It kind of ruins the photo.

Set your ISO to 100 or 200 (the lowest your camera allows)

Set your camera to aperature priority mode and set your F/stop to somewhere around 11 or 22. this will give you the largest depth of field so you can get everything in focus.

Then make sure your camera is on a tripod. you might also want a circular gradient to darken the sky so you can see everything and not blow out the sky.

Make sure you take the photos about a half hour before sunrise.

 

[lynchnaut]

I am not sure why your sky is so blown out. It kind of ruins the photo.

Set your ISO to 100 or 200 (the lowest your camera allows)

Set your camera to aperature priority mode and set your F/stop to somewhere around 11 or 22. this will give you the largest depth of field so you can get everything in focus.

Then make sure your camera is on a tripod. you might also want a circular gradient to darken the sky so you can see everything and not blow out the sky.

Make sure you take the photos about a half hour before sunrise.

I don't have a DSLR. I do realize that I should use a gradient filter for sunrise and sunset pictures but I can't just put one on. I need a lensmate adaptor or other.

I used various ISO settings from 80 on up and the shutter is limited to 15sec. F-stop is limited to 8. Also, my image sensor is much smaller than what most of you use.

There's a lot of darkness because...well, it was dark!

Simo110, can you give me an example of "some interesting and creative compositions"?

 

[JoshC.]

Those are nice for your first shots. I like the second edit better. Like the others said, a little under exposed. But good composition.
Looking forward to seeing more from you

 

[enzodm]

DSLR was out of my range so I bought another point and shoot! - but with manual controls,

The least appealing feature of the pictures is horizon not on level. If you like to shoot manual (although horizon is not given by that), take into account also the extra time needed to postprocess - in this case, leveling them is very easy and at least they will not more have a very basic mistake. You can use just the software coming with the camera, good also for some basic color adjustments, sharpening, and so on.


A side note: S95 is not an alternative to a dSLR from the price point of view, but just on size. S95 is an expensive, good quality point&shoot. Its price is very close to an entry level dSLR like Rebel Xs (or Nikon d3000) with similar lens extension.
Canon has many P&S with manual controls, even much cheaper, of course having something less (e.g. f/2) but also something more, like longer zooms (e.g. SX 130is).

 

[lynchnaut]

Point and shoot with longer zooms have smaller image sensors don't they? I like shooting with no flash. It's just something i've always wanted to do, and tried, but resulted in a horrible grainy mess, which is why I try to avoid high ISO which results in low exposure due to a 15 sec limit. I have much more opportunity to practice manual shooting with the S95 because I just don't see myself carrying a larger camera everywhere with me.

I suppose a level on a tripod would help, especially when it's too dark (with my aging eyes) to barely make out my own feet! - but it would be more effective to be more aware of the horizon in the screen before I shoot. My tripod lacks a level anyway. I'm not sure if it's truly the horizon or actually the shoreline because when the trees are standing upright the horizon (shoreline) looks worse. If I were to adjust the horizon in the first pic, it would have to rotate left which would make the trees lean way over to the left (would it not?). The photos are looking down river not directly across the river.

I have just learned how to use the trimming angle editor. Can I use a gradient in photoshop to bring up the brightness levels without blowing the sunrise? Can it be a substitute for a real gradient lens filter?

 

[enzodm]

Point and shoot with longer zooms have smaller image sensors don't they?

yes, S95 has a slightly larger sensor than SX130is (7.6x5.7mm vs. 6.2x4.6mm, versus 22.2x14.8mm on 1000D/Rebel).[/QUOTE]

If I were to adjust the horizon in the first pic, it would have to rotate left which would make the trees lean way over to the left (would it not?). The photos are looking down river not directly across the river.

sometimes is matter of perspective; on short focal lengths you may have falling lines at the borders. I do not know why in your first two pictures the scene is the same but the second one has horizon more on level and trees more straight.

I have just learned how to use the trimming angle editor. Can I use a gradient in photoshop to bring up the brightness levels without blowing the sunrise? Can it be a substitute for a real gradient lens filter?

I do not own Photoshop, however there is the way for doing it. In Canon DPP you have a couple of sliders for Light and Shadow that do (more or less) the job). In Lightroom there is something similar.