My macro shots...

[davholla14 1]

Yes, but with popup flash, without any kind of diffusion, you will get very hard light.
You can also use the flash off camera

Cheers

Very true, it is a difficult compromise.

 

[kalgra]

How do you use CO2 to anesthetize them?

Get a jar or container that has two small holes punched in the top of the lid, one on each side. Obviously the holes should be smaller than the bug so it can't get out. Capture the bug In the jar and start releasing a slow flow of co2 into one of the holes. The co2 is more dense than the air in the jar and will fall to the bottom displacing the air/oxygen in the container there by pushing it out the other hole. Once you are sure all the oxygen has been purged it will take about 2-3 minutes for the bug to go to sleep. Some are rather dramatic about it wriggling all around others just kind of curl up and fall over.

The insect will appear dead at first but I assure you it's not. You will then have anywhere between 10-20 minutes to work with the insect without it waking. I use some dental tools and tweezers to carefully place them and move them about. You can repeat this process many times as needed. Many insects respond differently some move slightly some not at all. Some awake suddenly others it's a slow lethargic kind of thing.

For a co2 supply I prefer using a smaller paintball canister fitted with a valve and a basket ball pump needle that can fit into the hole on the jar. All you need to do is just ever so lightly crack the valve open to let the the gas flow.

 

[Emanuel M]

Today was the Tokina 100mm test

#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

#6

The light is harder to control because I am "so far" from the subject.
With the 40mm I have to be right above the bugs, and I don't need to power up the flash to the maximum nor bumping the ISO.
On the other side, the higher distance makes it easier to catch the insects without disturbing them.

Cheers

EDIT: I don't know what kind of fly is that on #2, #3 and #4.
I call it the Duck fly because of that beak

 

[kalgra]

Those are really nice!

 

[Emanuel M]

Thanks

I did also try a new thing - Reversed my 50mm 1.8 on top of the Tokina 100mm.

Here's the first attempt.

With the 50mm on top of the Tokina I get about 2.8 or 2.9x magnification (100mm / 50mm = 2X + the 0.8 or 0.9X of the 50mm inverted).

Cheers

 

[Emanuel M]

Here's another...

With the 70-200mm f4 VR + 68mm of tubes + Raynox 250.

Cheers

 

[jcdeboever]

Here's another...

With the 70-200mm f4 VR + 68mm of tubes + Raynox 250.

Cheers

Amazing detail. Good composition.

 

[Emanuel M]

Thanks mate.

I just did this one.

I changed the eye color to blueish

Cheers

 

[kalgra]

Really like this last one. How many images in this stack?

 

[Emanuel M]

Thanks
I think it's a 60 image stack....

This is so random.
My best extreme macro lens is not a macro lens
70-200mm f4 VR + Raynox 250 = amazing

 

[kalgra]

Thanks
I think it's a 60 image stack....

This is so random.
My best extreme macro lens is not a macro lens
70-200mm f4 VR + Raynox 250 = amazing

Nice! you did a really good job. I think the angle of the fly worked well for a deep stack like that. Did you use Helicon or Zerene? I played around with both programs and while I will no doubt end up buying both at some point I think I like Zerene better and will probably buy that one first.

I have a Raynox 250 as well I bought it when I got my very first macro lens and dint like the results I was getting so I tucked it away somewhere and have not used it since. I realize now I probably just wasnt skilled enough at the time to get good results from it. I should probably try it out again.

Was that last one done with the 70-200?

 

[Emanuel M]

Yes
Today was the 70-200 macro day

I use helicon focus and helicon remote...

Cheers

 

[Emanuel M]

 

[Tallgrass1]

How do you use CO2 to anesthetize them?

Get a jar or container that has two small holes punched in the top of the lid, one on each side. Obviously the holes should be smaller than the bug so it can't get out. Capture the bug In the jar and start releasing a slow flow of co2 into one of the holes. The co2 is more dense than the air in the jar and will fall to the bottom displacing the air/oxygen in the container there by pushing it out the other hole. Once you are sure all the oxygen has been purged it will take about 2-3 minutes for the bug to go to sleep. Some are rather dramatic about it wriggling all around others just kind of curl up and fall over.

The insect will appear dead at first but I assure you it's not. You will then have anywhere between 10-20 minutes to work with the insect without it waking. I use some dental tools and tweezers to carefully place them and move them about. You can repeat this process many times as needed. Many insects respond differently some move slightly some not at all. Some awake suddenly others it's a slow lethargic kind of thing.

For a co2 supply I prefer using a smaller paintball canister fitted with a valve and a basket ball pump needle that can fit into the hole on the jar. All you need to do is just ever so lightly crack the valve open to let the the gas flow.

An easy alternative is to make an anesthetizing jar. Use any old glass jar and pour a little plaster of paris in the bottom. After cured, pour a little acetone (finger nail polish remover). The plaster will soak it up. Capture the critter. Let them breath the happy gas until they're still. You should get a good 15-20 minutes of work time before they wake up (unless you leave them too long, then they don't wake up).

Depending on how often the jar is open, the acetone will last quite some time. If they're not anesthetizing quickly, add a little more 'juice'

 

[Emanuel M]

I've migrated to the MFT system.
But I kept my Tokina 100mm 2.8 and I use it with an adapter.
Here are the first results with the E-M5 and GX8.

At 1:1, I gain 30% more magnification, and I lose 20% of DOF, but it feels familiar to shoot with this combo

Cheers