Need explanation please

[keethjon]

I agree with the previous answers that the camera aperture setting is causing one of the subjects to be out of focus. One way to experiment with the aperture settings is to use the camera's program mode. You just choose a smaller aperture setting like f8 or f11 and the camera will set the shutter speed. However, make sure to check the shutter speed that the camera sets. It could very a slow shutter speed that might cause blur due to camera shake. If that is the case, use a tripod or place the camera on a steady surface to minimize camera shake. If you would like to read more about exposure settings in general, take a look at Camera Exposure Basics: Shutter Speeds, Aperture, F Stops, and ISO

Keith

 

[Hibiscus]

No laughing here! It's a learning process. Depth of Field takes a while to sink in--not only in how to manage it in its own right, but how doing so affects other things. For instance, going with a small aperture (large f/number) in order to improve your chances of getting all subjects in focus might mean that your camera needs to keep the shutter open too long to allow you to get a hand-held shot without motion blur. So in that case, you'd get another blurry photo, just with a different root cause.

Another good practical thing to remember is that, all else being equal, the closer your subjects are to you, the shallower the depth of field.

As for your lens, truth be told, it's probably a better "walkaround" lens than it is a portrait lens. You're not likely to find many serious portrait photographers using it day-to-day, but fret not--you can still obtain some great results with it once you learn how to control the settings and lighting conditions such that they are within the "performance envelope" of the lens.

Also, the lens will perform better at some apertures and focal lengths than it will at others, so you want to find out where the "sweet spot" is. I have that lens and after using it extensively for 2 years, I can tell you that my copy seems to provide the sharpest results at about 35mm and f/8.0. These are not very good portrait settings, unfortunately.

Thank you very much for taking the time to explain!
i really have the feeling now that depth of field is more challenging to control than I initially thought...
I actually take a lot of portraits (that, and of my kids running around).
for portraits, what would be a good lens?

 

[Hibiscus]

I agree with the previous answers that the camera aperture setting is causing one of the subjects to be out of focus. One way to experiment with the aperture settings is to use the camera's program mode. You just choose a smaller aperture setting like f8 or f11 and the camera will set the shutter speed. However, make sure to check the shutter speed that the camera sets. It could very a slow shutter speed that might cause blur due to camera shake. If that is the case, use a tripod or place the camera on a steady surface to minimize camera shake. If you would like to read more about exposure settings in general, take a look at Camera Exposure Basics: Shutter Speeds, Aperture, F Stops, and ISO

Keith

Will do! Thanks for the link, the info is really clearly explained. Need to put in practice!

 

[cynicaster]

Thank you very much for taking the time to explain!
i really have the feeling now that depth of field is more challenging to control than I initially thought...
I actually take a lot of portraits (that, and of my kids running around).
for portraits, what would be a good lens?

A "standard" answer for somebody like yourself--i.e., a beginner with a Canon looking to buy a new lens--is to recommend the so-called "nifty fifty". It's a 50mm f/1.8 prime lens (prime = fixed focal length; no zooming) that costs about $100 and represents amazing bang-for-your-buck. It's a pretty decent portrait lens if you've got room to move around and frame your shot, but you'll want to stick with your 18-55 for capturing your kids running around.

Beyond that, there are all kinds of people on this forum who could answer the lens question better than I. I'd recommend you hit up the "gear" section of the forum and read up on what people are saying.

Just be aware that if you're looking to upgrade to a lens that is markedly superior to your 18-55 and the nifty fifty, you should be prepared to open your wallet quite wide.

 

[Hibiscus]

A "standard" answer for somebody like yourself--i.e., a beginner with a Canon looking to buy a new lens--is to recommend the so-called "nifty fifty". It's a 50mm f/1.8 prime lens (prime = fixed focal length; no zooming) that costs about $100 and represents amazing bang-for-your-buck. It's a pretty decent portrait lens if you've got room to move around and frame your shot, but you'll want to stick with your 18-55 for capturing your kids running around.

Beyond that, there are all kinds of people on this forum who could answer the lens question better than I. I'd recommend you hit up the "gear" section of the forum and read up on what people are saying.

Just be aware that if you're looking to upgrade to a lens that is markedly superior to your 18-55 and the nifty fifty, you should be prepared to open your wallet quite wide.

I won't buy a new lens right away. I think I have a lot to learn with the one that I have already!
thanks for the tip though, I will keep that in mind.
I'm sure one can spend quite a bit of money on camera gear!
thanks for your help tho, much appreciated!

 

[TCampbell]

When you allow the camera to use all focus points, that means the computer will EVALUATE focus at all those points. But in reality it is only going to use one focus point to lock focus.

The focus point a Canon camera will chose, is the point which is able to achieve focus lock at the CLOSEST focused distance to the lens.

In other words... baby on daddy's lap... baby is closer. Baby wins. Camera will focus on baby.

It may light up more than one point if after focusing it turns out that more than one focus point is able to achieve acceptable focus lock at that same distance.

To force the camera to use a specific focus point, you have to select the focus point you'd like to use. You can compose the shot so that your focus point is on the subject or element of detail (e.g. the subject's "eye") then half-press the shutter button to get it lock focus. Once it has locked -- while STILL half-pressing that shutter button (don't let go) -- recompose the shot to frame up the way you want, then fully-press the button to take the shot. Just be careful in that sometimes when you re-compose the shot, you could actually change the focused distance to your subject. But if the re-compose is minor then it's unlikely to be a problem.

 

[The_Traveler]

As a general summation of what everyone has said, you have just run right smack into the base of the learning curve.

You cannot expect expensive complicated gear to read your mind.
No more than you would expect to takeoff and fly a jet airplane, you will have have spend some time learning how to use your camera.


Everyone here is on your side and will help you as much as we can to get over the bumps in the road but the basic learning part is up to you.

For you, as it has for all of us, there will be two discoveries, it will eventually become second nature and all the effort will be worth it. :hug::

 

[falcontertomt]

One of the things that helped me out when I was starting is the the youtube video:
[h=3]The 15 Features of Your DSLR That Every Photographer ... - YouTube[/h]Please take this with a grain of salt, as this is ONE photographer's opinion. But this did give me the confidence to get out of the automatic modes and start playing with other settings on my camera