# of exposures

[rbconbautista]

Interesting thing about getting 'just' 35 frames: You'll get an entire roll into just one binder sheet (7 rows of 5 frames each).

Only good thing about getting only 35 frames. But I'd like to get the full 36 so I have my money's worth. I'll prolly switch to 24exp rolls to save money and because it takes me awhile to get through 36exp.

 

[480sparky]

Interesting thing about getting 'just' 35 frames: You'll get an entire roll into just one binder sheet (7 rows of 5 frames each).

Only good thing about getting only 35 frames. But I'd like to get the full 36 so I have my money's worth. I'll prolly switch to 24exp rolls to save money and because it takes me awhile to get through 36exp.

I used to shoot only 35 frames on purpose (except for slides) for this reason alone. Any 'savings' gained by getting that one, single negative was more than lost on all those extra sheets I had to buy just to put one loose negative in one row of the sleeve. One roll to one sheet of negs made storage a lot more organized.

 

[rbconbautista]

I still wanna get all 36exp to get my moneys worth. My class actually uses the sleeves that do 7 strips of 6 frames. We also have the sleeves with a separate compartment for that rolls contact sheet.

 

[petrochemist]

When I filed negs in sleeves I used to group the left over strips in a sleeve of their own every 5 or so films. Perhaps not quite a convenient for indexing put it never added more than a few seconds to finding a neg.

 

[webestang64]

For some reason your infrared winding sensor is skipping frame number one. My ESO A2E places the frame exactly at frame one and shoots a perfect 36 exp.

 

[dennyr]

Is the 36 frame there but black?

Its actually shot number 1 but its clear as if nothing was shot on it

Just of interest, which brand of film are you using.
Whilst it’s been a v long time since I bought 36 exp rolls on account of buying 5 meters rolls I do rem some brands allowed more film at the start of the roll than others,

It was Kodak TMax 400 ASA also shot HP5+ but I accidentally opened the camera back on the first few frames so it was completely black for the first few shots

There is a contradiction going on here.
Clear means no exposure to light, but complete development.
Black (negs) were exposed to light and then saw proper development.
Unless......did your camera miss Frame #1, spool it, ans then you opened the back to light.?

 

[pjmdy]

How come when I shoot a 36exp roll of film Im only getting 35shots

I used to do photography while in the USAF. A trick we used was to insert the new spool in the camera, then grasp the leader and carefully tighten the roll with the rewind knob. This takes up the slack in the roll and sometimes if you are lucky, you can even get an extra frame or two.

 

[webestang64]

An EOS camera loads the film automatically. THERE IS NO WAY TO LOAD IT MANUALLY. So if you have film loaded and you open the back, when you close the back your camera will think it is a fresh roll and advance 3 spots to what it thinks is number one.

 

[jeryst]

Auto load cameras often wind too much film into the camera on the initial load. I had several, back in the day, that did the same thing. A repair center may be able to recalibrate the initial winding sequence, but honestly, its not worth the trouble. As far as cost goes, well, you are losing a potential photo, but you are also not paying to process that photo, so you come out ahead unless you are developing/printing your own. You may have the same issue with a 24 exp role. You might try some different types/brands of film just to make sure your cameras sensors arent just being finicky. If they work, maybe your sensor just needs cleaned.

 

[480sparky]

Roll your own, and you can make sure you get as many as 37 or 38 frames.

 

[rbconbautista]

Roll your own, and you can make sure you get as many as 37 or 38 frames.

I honestly would but me being the cheapskate I am, I would still make the rolls in the darkroom even if I'm using a daylight bulk loader. You still waste film putting the film onto the spool and you have to leave some film out for the leader. This is to ensure Im really getting what I paid for. Any recommendations on what film stock to buy in 100ft rolls. I really like TMax ASA 400 but its a lil pricey (cheaper than buying that much in pre rolled cassettes tho).

 

[480sparky]

Roll your own, and you can make sure you get as many as 37 or 38 frames.

I honestly would but me being the cheapskate I am, I would still make the rolls in the darkroom even if I'm using a daylight bulk loader. You still waste film putting the film onto the spool and you have to leave some film out for the leader. This is to ensure Im really getting what I paid for. Any recommendations on what film stock to buy in 100ft rolls. I really like TMax ASA 400 but its a lil pricey (cheaper than buying that much in pre rolled cassettes tho).

The cost of a few frames lost in order to spool it up is more than made up in the overall savings spread out over the cost of a 100' roll.

 

[rbconbautista]

Roll your own, and you can make sure you get as many as 37 or 38 frames.

I honestly would but me being the cheapskate I am, I would still make the rolls in the darkroom even if I'm using a daylight bulk loader. You still waste film putting the film onto the spool and you have to leave some film out for the leader. This is to ensure Im really getting what I paid for. Any recommendations on what film stock to buy in 100ft rolls. I really like TMax ASA 400 but its a lil pricey (cheaper than buying that much in pre rolled cassettes tho).

The cost of a few frames lost in order to spool it up is more than made up in the overall savings spread out over the cost of a 100' roll.

I guess that’s true. But what if let’s say you’re on shot 36 and shot 36 is what you had to expose in order to get the film onto spool into the cassette and your camera still takes shot 36 you just ruined your shot.

 

[dennyr]

Or just use a different camera.
Frugal and Cheapskate are two different things.......

 

[480sparky]

Roll your own, and you can make sure you get as many as 37 or 38 frames.

I honestly would but me being the cheapskate I am, I would still make the rolls in the darkroom even if I'm using a daylight bulk loader. You still waste film putting the film onto the spool and you have to leave some film out for the leader. This is to ensure Im really getting what I paid for. Any recommendations on what film stock to buy in 100ft rolls. I really like TMax ASA 400 but its a lil pricey (cheaper than buying that much in pre rolled cassettes tho).

The cost of a few frames lost in order to spool it up is more than made up in the overall savings spread out over the cost of a 100' roll.

I guess that’s true. But what if let’s say you’re on shot 36 and shot 36 is what you had to expose in order to get the film onto spool into the cassette and your camera still takes shot 36 you just ruined your shot.

Then you're more concerned with counting pennies than counting images.