P mode?

[fjrabon]

I use it almost all the time. I leave my cameras defaulted to P mode. Think of it as A(Av) and S(Tv) modes available simultaneously. In P mode the camera uses the meter input and then sets both the shutter speed and f/stop based on a program that's typically biased toward keeping the shutter speed fast enough for hand-holding and otherwise selecting medium values for both shutter and aperture. The advantage when using a modern camera is that you typically have a wheel you can turn that will shift you through the entire available EV set for your ISO and the metered light. In that way P mode is A(Av) priority if you use the wheel to move to the f/stop you want and it's also S(Tv) priority if you move to the shutter speed you want -- that makes it very fast and efficient.

For my camera that wheel is directly behind the shutter release and is accessible with a slight shift of my index finger. In the event that you deem it necessary to shift the exposure from the camera's metered exposure, all modern cameras are equipped with an EC control. For my camera that's a wheel directly under my right hand thumb. So with the camera in P mode I'm ready to set the f/stop and/or shutter speed I want and also compensate as needed for the metered exposure. P offers the greatest flexibility, speed and efficiency giving it an edge over the other options.

All the control modes on a modern camera have a place. S(Tv) can be critical for fast moving sports action when you want to be certain of your shutter speed. A(Av) is the one it wouldn't hurt to lose. M is necessary when using flash (real flash) and doing things like panoramas. M is also an important mode for a lot of male photographers who otherwise wish they had a longer lens.

Joe

M is VERY important if you want your images in a series to have a consistent feel to them. Try shooting an event in A, P or S and then see how the feel of the pictures jumps all over the place as the camera constantly changes its mind on how to expose the shot, when the exposures should actually be relatively similar.

Also, as you gain experience as a photographer, you can look at a scene and know what you want from it in manual. Using P mode and then adjusting can in fact be less efficient, because you are having to get the exposure it's suggesting, then make changes, and then hope that the light didn't change to throw off what it thought. P mode is good because it's instantaneous, but if you have to change it much at all, it's actually more efficient to just use manual (assuming you have dual command wheels).

 

[SCraig]

Anyone here ever shoot in P mode on a regular basis? When and why? I use A, S and M with varying degrees of frequency, but don't even fully understand P mode (I know I could RTFM to understand it, but I'm curious when it's even used). I've got to assume Nikon wouldn't include if there wasn't a decent use for it.

Nope. I don't even know what it does or how it works, nor have I ever had the urge to find out.

 

[480sparky]

I use P when I'm shooting fast action stuff, especially in sunlight or bright areas. AFAIK, it's just like Auto 'cept no auto- pop-up flash.

 

[fjrabon]

Anyone here ever shoot in P mode on a regular basis? When and why? I use A, S and M with varying degrees of frequency, but don't even fully understand P mode (I know I could RTFM to understand it, but I'm curious when it's even used). I've got to assume Nikon wouldn't include if there wasn't a decent use for it.

Nope. I don't even know what it does or how it works, nor have I ever had the urge to find out.

I was that way until about a week or two ago, I decided it had to have some use. So basically I made myself use only P for natural light or TTL flash for the last however many days. I like it for street. I just plain get more shots with it that are usable when I'm shooting in an unpredictable environment. Now, if you're doing the whole 'find your frame and wait for the actors to align' then just quickly shift over to M, sure. But it certainly has its uses. I was surprised at how many respected street and photojourn guys/gals use it in certain situations.

That being said, I think it is important that you don't use P mode as a crutch, but simply a tool that has its best applications in certain situations. You shouldn't be using it all the time, or you're probably either being inefficient (sometimes making adjustments out of P mode, when the camera is way off from how you envision the shot is like going around your elbow to get to... you know) or taking shots that could be better (ie always letting the camera decide).

 

[pixmedic]

The thing I think people fail to understand is that you really can end up getting the same results regardless of which mode you use, they just attack the problem from different angles.

P mode starts with what it thinks the best combination of shutter speed and aperture are, and you can then adjust from there. So, for example when you know you're just going to want relatively straightforward exposures, it may be easier (or in terms that won't offend experienced photographers 'a more efficient workflow') to start with P and adjust as necessary. So, you see what P gives you, and you decide you want a bit more shallow DoF, then just adjust, P will fix the shutter speed for you, or you can change the ISO. I've began experimenting with P when doing street photography sometimes. In street, sometimes the moment is on you before you have a chance to get everything set up. If you see a shot coming and you can anticipate it, sure, then switch to manual or A or something. But having your camera ready to go with a relatively high ISO and in P mode guarantees that if something comes on you in a hurry, you get the moment. Which is much more important than some ephemeral badge of honor of shooting it in manual.

A (Av) mode attacks the problem by again giving you what it consider's a proper exposure, but holding the aperture constant. As aperture is usually more important for artistic elements in photography, this is often something photographers do want control over. You can then decide you want a darker or brighter exposure than the camera thinks by using exposure compensation. Really, if you use EC heavily, A or S mode are literally the same exact thing as shooting in manual, just that the camera changes it's setting first and then you adjust, instead of having to adjust whenever the scene changes. For some shooting scenarios A is more efficient, in some M is more efficient. One isn't more of a 'true photographer' skill than the other. Just different approaches to the same problem.

S (Tv) is pretty much the exact same thing as A, except it gets used a bit less, because usually shutter speed doesn't change the artistic feel of the photo, unless you're using flash or shooting fast moving subjects.

M is sort of obvious in that you need to decide if the settings need to be changed.

The funniest thing in the world to me are the people who "always shoot in M, because I'm not an amateur", but essentially just shoot to center their light meter every time. Don't they realize that if you shoot that way, you're essentially shooting in A mode, but forcing yourself to turn the command dial instead of letting the camera do it? If you're going to shoot in M, then the whole point is ignoring what the in camera light meter is reading to some extent. The whole point of shooting in M is to use the light meter as a tool, but not a thing that tells you how to shoot. Yet some people will center the in camera light meter on literally every single shot they shoot in M. That drives me more crazy than the people who shoot in full auto.

^^this should be a sticky.

 

[swiftparkour94]

Just throwing this out there, I would never shoot in P mode for street. Why? Because I shoot RAW. I have to be quick and shoot at a higher shutter speed that'll make the whole shot look very underexposed if I'm worried about blur and easy to fix in post. I just have to pay attention to the histogram. I wouldn't want something changing my plans by compensating exposure values which may ruin the exposure (this applies when zone focusing too with a high f-stop).

 

[fjrabon]

I use P when I'm shooting fast action stuff, especially in sunlight or bright areas. AFAIK, it's just like Auto 'cept no pop-up flash.

P mode doesn't choose ISO or WB for you. Full auto does. There is also no flash auto, which is auto,but without a flash. If you have your camera set to auto ISO and auto WB, P and no flash auto are the exact same as far as I know.

 

[fjrabon]

Just throwing this out there, I would never shoot in P mode for street. Why? Because I shoot RAW. I have to be quick and shoot at a higher shutter speed that'll make the whole shot look very underexposed if I'm worried about blur and easy to fix in post. I just have to pay attention to the histogram. I wouldn't want something changing my plans by compensating exposure values which may ruin the exposure (this applies when zone focusing too with a high f-stop).

wait, what? You'd rather get a bad exposure that has to be fixed in post than shoot in P mode? Shooting underexposed images, even when shooting in raw (also, raw isn't an acronym and shouldn't be capitalized), is a recipe for noisy images. If you never shoot in P mode for street, it better be because you're ungodly fast with the command wheels or always wait for your shots, not because you can 'just fix it in post'.

Can you give a tangible reason why shooting in P mode is actually bad?

edit: and yes, I'm aware that the phrase "Just throwing this out there, I would never shoot in P mode for street. Why? Because I shoot RAW." is probably just him trolling again, because it's that funny of a statement, but some people might take it seriously, so...

 

[amolitor]

I assume that what he means is that he's ok with being +/- a stop or two, since he shoots raw, and that shutter speed is what matters. There are, of course, a bunch of variations that would work fine for him here. Still, it's arguably pretty convenient to leave the shutter at the minimum acceptable speed, and then shoot M while mashing the aperture around until the needle is 'close enough'.

 

[unpopular]

:shock:

^^ agree. that quote is pretty reaching.

---

P mode offers the same level of control as Tv and Av mode. It's unsettling to use, but it's really not the fauxtographic technique people make it out as.

I think Mike is referring to full auto. where it literally controls every singe aspect, allowing for no deviation, except focal length, where the lens is aimed, and when the shutter is pressed.

I know but there are other advantages to a DSLR other than full manual. Many P&S offer full manual.

 

[fjrabon]

I assume that what he means is that he's ok with being +/- a stop or two, since he shoots raw, and that shutter speed is what matters. There are, of course, a bunch of variations that would work fine for him here. Still, it's arguably pretty convenient to leave the shutter at the minimum acceptable speed, and then shoot M while mashing the aperture around until the needle is 'close enough'.

Sure, but he literally said 'very underexposed'. and P mode's whole point is that it picks a fairly good minimum acceptable shutter speed. But then again, that whole post is so weirdly worded that I literally have no idea what he's talking about, so perhaps I'll just wait for him to clarify (if at all) before I comment further.

 

[pixmedic]

Just throwing this out there, I would never shoot in P mode for street. Why? Because I shoot RAW. I have to be quick and shoot at a higher shutter speed that'll make the whole shot look very underexposed if I'm worried about blur and easy to fix in post. I just have to pay attention to the histogram. I wouldn't want something changing my plans by compensating exposure values which may ruin the exposure (this applies when zone focusing too with a high f-stop).

shooting RAW? i recommend a condom. less risk that way. as for shooting quick...I really cant help you there. I would talk to your doctor.

 

[Ysarex]

Also, as you gain experience as a photographer, you can look at a scene and know what you want from it in manual. Using P mode and then adjusting can in fact be less efficient, because you are having to get the exposure it's suggesting, then make changes, and then hope that the light didn't change to throw off what it thought. P mode is good because it's instantaneous, but if you have to change it much at all, it's actually more efficient to just use manual (assuming you have dual command wheels).

I'll agree as long as you are then entirely ignoring the camera meter and not basing your exposure on any kind of reading from the built-in light meter. I'm quite comfortable doing that but I doubt too many photographers are, and as soon as you're going to rely on the camera meter then P mode gets the edge in efficiency over a large sampling of photos.

Joe

 

[shadowlands]

I use it sometimes when I'm traveling and want something like "full auto" since the D300 doesn't have a full auto setting.

 

[Ysarex]

Just throwing this out there, I would never shoot in P mode for street. Why? Because I shoot RAW. I have to be quick and shoot at a higher shutter speed that'll make the whole shot look very underexposed if I'm worried about blur and easy to fix in post. I just have to pay attention to the histogram. I wouldn't want something changing my plans by compensating exposure values which may ruin the exposure (this applies when zone focusing too with a high f-stop).

Woah! I only shoot raw as well -- mostly in P mode, but under the circumstance you note I'd consider using S(Tv). What I would not do is deliberately get underexposed photos.

Joe