Pentax K1000 light meter problem

il_mix

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Hi everyone!


Just joined the forum to get help with my old Pentax K1000.


I took this camera from my father, with the light meter dead. My father had already asked some local repair shops without luck (tipical answer, "it costs more to repair it than to take a new camera". No info about WHAT could be the problem).
I've read here and there, and before opening the camera, I tried to "clean" the exposure time potentiometer by turning it clockwise-counterclockwise for seeeeeeeeveral time.
Well... it worked :)


Everything was good for some months.
Now a (maybe) new problem occured.
Really often, the light meter indicator get semi-locked to the + sign. It goes down only on really dark areas. When I get home and leave the camera in the locker for some times, it starts to work again
I've found the technical manual, where it's stated which are the involved voltages in the light meter circuitry (just did a fast read at the moment). I have some electronical knowledge, but I suck in the mechanical part.
Again, before opening the camera (I already see the cartoon scene where dozen of springs jump out from the camera as soon as I open it...), I ask here for advice about:
- what can be the problem
- easy (well, not-so-hard) possible solutions
- any other hint


Since I'm quite newbie, I really need the light meter information.


Thanks for your help!
MIX

 
As I recall, there is NO On/Off switch for the light meter. Covering the lens with its lens cap is the "On/Off" system. Are the batteries exhausted?
 
I confirm that there is no on/off switch.
I thought about the batteries. But usually, when the batteries are exhausted, the light meter will be in the middle position (the circuitry simply doesn't work). Or maybe before complete discharge the light meter goes nuts? Could it be possible?
 
Time for an upgrade !!
 
Nope!
You'll never have me, digital world!
 
Nope!
You'll never have me, digital world!

By "upgrade", I'm pretty certain he meant, "Buy a NIKON!"

Nikon, Shmikon.

The meter in my K1000 is fine, but the one in my Spotmatic is useless because I can't get the battery out to replace it. I just use a light meter. If the meter in the OP's K1000 can't be fixed, he can still use it. It's more convenient with the light meter, but the camera is still perfectly functional without it.
 
I would say it is the battery. There are no more original batteries for Spotmatic and today's equivalents have different characteristics; they drop the voltage. Alkaline batteries have ability to restore a bit the EMF when rested, that's why it seems, that things come back to normal after period of rest, but just for a moment. Change the battery, Vein cell might be best choice:
WEINCELL MRB625 BATTERY (PX625) $H900012
But the best solution is this:
$sek_studio.jpg
Battery independent, camera independent, you will always get the right exposure, especially in situation, when in camera meter might be easily fooled. Costs some dough, but is like diamond - forever.
 
Well, I first thought about some serious issues due to the previous light meter's problem, where changing the battery didn't restore the functionality.
Also, seing the meter pointing on + and not lying in the middle suggested that the meter have some power to use. Not "good" power, it seems.
I will try to change the battery with a standard one, firs. If the it starts working again, next time it pops up I will search for a more suitable battery (hope I'll find some one in local stores).

The external light meter looks like a good "upgrade" :) Sekonic have a lite version, too.
I'm already traveling with 3 lnses, a x2 adapter, filters and so on; if I can avoid further equipment I'll be happier. ...well, true speaking I love wasting time playing with all these stuffs, changing lenses continuosly, mounting things...
Also... 100 euro for such a "dumb" electonical device... come ooooon!
Googling around, I found this :)
Converting a Foot-Candle Meter for Photography
 
Side note.
I took the camera, removed the lens cap, pointed out the window with settings such that the meter is in middle position.
After 2+ hours of exposition (i.e. light meter powered and doing its job), the meter is still ok.
If the problem is the battery voltage, I suppose I had to see the light meter struck at + by now, don't you think?

I rearely use the camera at home. So I've seen the problem when I take it with me around.
Example:
I go by car somewhere, and check the camera light meter before starting trekking. It is ok.
Then start walking. After 30 minutes, time for photos! Remove the cap, light meter locked on +. FFFFFF....
Maybe the walking bumping it's causing this...

Well, I will make a new battery test anyway.
 
Hi. Remember, THIS IS OLD CAMERA. :D Actually it lives beyond its intended life span. Electronics then were not as good, as today. Only technician will tell you, what is failing, but that will already cost you more, than a different, functioning body. If you need working light meter in camera body, get different, good body. Chances are you will have some other issues. In my philosophy as long as the shutter is correct, body is light tight, film transport works camera is fine. Light metering inside the body wasn't that good anyway in SP, Minolta had better at the time. External light meter should not be looked upon as an upgrade, good light meter is an essential tool. If you never used it before, you gonna have to take my word for it, but the immediate difference is 95% of good frames versus less, sometimes much less and reliability. Specifically this model of Sekonic. It is industry standard, still used in cinema despite all this digital cameras of today.
 
If you want a low-cost external light meter, get one of the smart phone applications. I have one for my iPhone, and the light meter is in direct agreement with my expensive Minolta flash meter's readings. The advantage of a smart phone meter is that you will most likely, have the "meter" with you at most times.
 

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