Please HELP :-)

[Big Mike]

Thank You for all of your helpful comments. I like the effect in pictures where you are focused on the eyes and everything blurs outward from that point, what do I need to get that effect?

That look is the result of a shallow Depth of Field (DOF). The DOF is determined by a few different factors. Primarily it's the aperture of the lens....the bigger the aperture (lower F number) the more shallow your DOF will be. You would have a hard time doing that with an F3.5-5.6 lens for example...but an F1.8 lens could do it very easily.
The focal length also makes a difference, longer lenses can get shallower DOF. Also, the distance to the subject...the closer you are, the more shallow the DOF.

 

[asa143]

Thanks for elaborating, I think I got that one

 

[asa143]

I was also wondering how some of you put a black haze around the corners of your photos? I can do that using a Gaussian Blur in photoshop, is that how everyone else does that?

 

[Big Mike]

I was also wondering how some of you put a black haze around the corners of your photos? I can do that using a Gaussian Blur in photoshop, is that how everyone else does that?

That's called a vignette. There are several ways to create a vignette in Photoshop, Google 'Photoshop+vignette'.

 

[Samanax]

I was also wondering how some of you put a black haze around the corners of your photos? I can do that using a Gaussian Blur in photoshop, is that how everyone else does that?

You can do it the old fashioned way (in-camera) by stacking a bunch of UV or Skylight filters together or by using a lens hood that isn't designed to eliminate vignetting (too big, too long).

But seriously, I've seen actions for Photoshop that just add vignettes to pictures. Here's one.

 

[asa143]

Thanks. This is all really helpful

 

[Big Mike]

You can do it the old fashioned way (in-camera) by stacking a bunch of UV or Skylight filters together or by using a lens hood that isn't designed to eliminate vignetting (too big, too long).

One way they used to do it, was to hold up a card that had an oval cut out...sometimes with 'fingers' so that it's not a solid cut out. They then just hold it up in front of the lens...varying the amount of vignette by moving the card closer or farther from the lens.

 

[asa143]

That makes sense, Thank Goodness for Technology. Is there any Photo Programs that would make anything easier for me. I am pretty good with photoshop, is that sufficient?

 

[Big Mike]

Photoshop is the 'best' photo editing program...there isn't much it can't do.

However, for working with a large number of files (especially RAW files (which you should be using)), Adobe Lightroom would be a good program to get. It doens't necessarily replace Photoshop and they can be used together...but Lightroom can really speed up your workflow.

 

[TheOtherBob]

If you don't have them already, I would HIGHLY recommend you and your husband invest in a couple of Canon Speedlite 430EX or 580EX; one for each camera. Then start studying the link Samanax provided entitled, Flash Photography Techniques

I'd also recommend at least a 50mm 1.8 lens (under $90). If you want background blur, you need something faster than what you have -- and that little lens (while not ideal) would be a lifesaver if it rained and the wedding went indoors.

But...well, there is something a little unfair about the idea of you dropping $800 on two new flashes and a new lens for her wedding. :er: I mean, for that kind of money you could probably hire a pro. Maybe you could rent gear, to keep the cost down? (But then you wouldn't be able to practice, of course...)

I hate to say it, but she may just have to get the photos that you're able to take with your gear and the skills you have. In the end, she can't say that you didn't warn her.

 

[asa143]

I have the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Image Stabilizer
Autofocus Lens
Whatever that means, someone told me that the Image Stabilizer was good to have, can anyone tell me anything about it?

 

[Big Mike]

again

The 18-55mm is the focal length & range.
The F3.5 to F5.6 is the maximum aperture range. The maximum aperture gets smaller (F5.6) as you zoom the lens out. This is considered a 'slow' lens, and not great for wedding & action shooting.
Most wedding photographers prefer to use zoom lenses with a maximum aperture of F2.8. Not only can it give you a shallower DOF...but it can also give you the ability to get faster shutter speeds, which can mean the difference between sharp and blurry shots.

IS (image stabilizer) is very nice to have. It combats blur that might occur at slower shutter speed because of the movement of the camera in your hands. So it can help you get sharper shots. However, it won't help to freeze the movement of your subjects. In other words, it's great for shooting things that don't move...but not as helpful for shooting people. For shooting people, you will want/need a faster shutter speed (see above).

 

[asa143]

Thanks, you are a lot of help
I have these also, anything I need to know about these, or do you know anything cool that can be done with these?

Canon Zoom Telephoto EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 III Autofocus Lens

0.5X Professional Deluxe Wide Angle Lens Black

2x Telephoto Lens

 

[Big Mike]

Canon Zoom Telephoto EF 75-300mm f/4.0-5.6 III Autofocus Lens
Might be useful, if the light is good. The key will be to watch your shutter speed. If you can't get up to 1/300 (give or take), then don't bother. You can raise your ISO to increase the shutter speed but the trade off is digital noise....your call.

0.5X Professional Deluxe Wide Angle Lens Black
Might be fun for a few shots...but only a few...don't use it all day.

2x Telephoto Lens
I wouldn't bother.

 

[asa143]

Great, Thanks