Portrait equipment question

[curly]

Hi all

I have been a photo enthusiast/hobbyist for quite some time now. My first and only DSLR has been the Nikon D40, and I also just purchased the 50mm 1.8 lens. I've also played around with film SLR and medium format.

I am really interested in people photography, both portraits and situational/candid shots.

What would be your recommendations on which equipment to go for next to improve on my people photography skills? Which would be your top suggestion:

1. New camera body (maybe a D7000, etc) - would you sell the D40 to put money towards a new body?
2. Different lens for portraits (if you don't recommend the 50mm)
3. Lighting - I have looked at a few entry level soft boxes on Amazon
4. Speed light (SB-600, SB-800, etc)
5. Something else?

Thanks!

 

[jaomul]

Lighting. Soft boxes and a speedlite would give way more options. On you tube search for single light portrait set ups and you will see whats possible.

 

[Designer]

Ditto lighting.

If you can't afford both a light and some modifiers, get the light and learn to modify the light using found and homemade modifiers.

 

[cgw119 145]

Tripod???

 

[tirediron]

As mentioned, portraits are all about lighting and posing. Your D40 is fine for now, and your 50 1.8, while a little shorter than ideal, will also do. Adorama's 'Flashpoint' series of lighting equipment is without a doubt the best bang for the buck in entry-level gear, but like all things, it depends on your budget. If funds are tight, you can do a lot with sunlight and a single reflector which you can make out of Coroplast or posterboard.

Tell us how much you want to spend, and we'll be better able to guide you.

 

[curly]

At this point I have about $300 (maybe more after I sell some musical equipment and older film stuff) that I can devote to some lighting right now. I quickly looked at the Adorama Flashpoint equipment and it looks like something I'd be interested in getting based on price.

I do have a tripod.

Also, do I need a mix of continuous and strobe lighting? Is one better than the other? What is the best way to control a remote flash with a D40?

I was looking at the Yongnuo speed lights with remote triggers. Would this work?

Would a combo of the speed light plus the Adorama stuff be a good combo for different lighting situations?

 

[curly]

Bump

 

[lovelifefamily]

I say speedlite and reflector will get you a bit further. There is a lot you can get accomplished with a one light set up.

 

[lovelifefamily]

My first flash was a Yongnuo and to be honest, I'd check out Craigslist for a used SB-600. The recycle time is better.
This is a pretty decent inexpensive trigger set. Hope this helps.

 

[Derrel]

At this point I have about $300 (maybe more after I sell some musical equipment and older film stuff) that I can devote to some lighting right now. I quickly looked at the Adorama Flashpoint equipment and it looks like something I'd be interested in getting based on price.

I do have a tripod.

Also, do I need a mix of continuous and strobe lighting? Is one better than the other? What is the best way to control a remote flash with a D40?

I was looking at the Yongnuo speed lights with remote triggers. Would this work?

Would a combo of the speed light plus the Adorama stuff be a good combo for different lighting situations?

A lot of questions...okay, "my opinions". NO, do not bother mixing flash of any kind with continuous lighting. Too many hassles. The D40 does not have a remote flash commander built in, and it has no on-camera PC outlet. The "easiest" is a relative term. I personally have a lot of PC connection cords, of many types, built up over 30 years...1-foot, 3-foot, 10-foot, 20-foot cords, extensions, etc., etc. The Nikon AS-15 is what I used to use on a D40 when I needed to connect a PC cord to the D40. It's also what I used with my Canon 5D, to put the PC connection on TOP of the camera, and not under the idiotic left-hand grip location Canon so stupidly put the PC outlet...the AS-15 is VERY handy for a D40 owner who wants to get a PC outlet on his camera!!!

To "me", the "easiest" solution is a PC connection from the camera, connected directly to "one" of the flash units, and then an optical slave on second, third, and or fourth flash units. Why? The PC cord needs no batteries, has no channels, and tend to work for YEARS. Unlike cheap Chinese triggers, you will not need to spend 10,15,20,30 minutes futzing around with it, wondering, "WTF is the issue, exactly, with this danged thing?" With a PC connection, all you do is plug it in at both ends, and it works. For years.

Flashpoint 320M monolight...low-cost...affordable...simple...the right power level. Mixing a speedlight with a monolight? Yes, it works, but it's inelegant, and the speedlight has no modeling light, and is NOT the same thing as a studio flash unit. The biggest problem with speedlights is that the user is shooting "blind". With a device where all modifiers are basically, afterthoughts, engineered by 3rd parties. Speedlights are HARDER to "get just right" than studio flash units, because they are meant for different uses. Speedlights were never really designed for studio flash work. Speedlights can overheat. They force you to have a second modifier system/mount/accessory kit. You are never visually aware of EXACTLY where speedlight light is going to go on a subject that's moving or has freedom to move through a range of poses. For the money, TWO Flashpoint 320M's is a better deal than one monolight and one SB-600. Flashpoint monos are low,low,low cost!