Question re: 35mm lens

[Dao]

You may want to understand Depth of Field (DoF). And the relationship between DoF, focal length, subject distance and aperture.

Online Depth of Field Calculator

And learn about the lens' *sweet spot*. Browse around some technical review sites of the lens you have and see how your lens performs in different focal lengths (zoom lens) and apertures settings.
According to Photozone
Nikkor AF-S DX 35mm f/1.8 G - Review / Test Report - Analysis

Your 35mm AF-S lens performs the best around f/4 - f/5.6 based on the MTF chart (we normally refer that as sweet spot).

But if you take photos at f/4, you may run into issue with not everything in the photo are in focus. i.e. The person in the front is in focus, but the person at far back is not. In that case, you may need to use your knowledge about DoF and your lens to find out what is the best settings for you.

 

[photomama3]

Dao, i have been doing some reading - thank you also for the info.

So based on that info above - I would have got a more clear shot using the 55-200 lens...and for the close, soft shots I desired of my baby, I should have switched the lens to the 35mm??

BUT...

I shot some pics this morning of some of the boys toys in the back yard and I got the best focus with my 18-55 lens, but the images were not as pretty (for lack of a better word - kind of harder edges) as they were when shot with my 35mm. People photograph differently than the toys do. I seem to pay too much attention to details on the face, where as the toys I wouldn't do that - they can appear grungy and dirty, but faces need to be soft and flawless. So, after this experiment, I would have still chosen the 35mm. I am confused! Any advice?

 

[o hey tyler]

Dao, i have been doing some reading - thank you also for the info.

So based on that info above - I would have got a more clear shot using the 55-200 lens...

Not true. You'd probably get a 'sharper' image with the 35mm used at a correct aperture. In the f/4-5.6 rang like Dao suggested. You just need to adjust your aperture to that and give it a whirl. Just make sure your subject is staying relatively still, or that you have a high shutter speed.

 

[shufti]

Some of the following statements are generalizing..

F4: fast shutterspeed, less resolution, shallow DOF.
F8: moderate shutterspeed, high(est) resolution, median DOF,
F16+: slow shutterspeed, less resolution, greatest DOF,

F4: chromatic (color) aberrations. color fringing, harsh boke highlights, more pronounced coma
F8: least chromatic aberration, minimal or no color fringing, smooth boke, reduced coma
F16+: diffraction effects (loss of 'sharpness'..acuity and contrast)

If any of this is inaccurate or wrong, please let me know!

 

[photomama3]

Dao, i have been doing some reading - thank you also for the info.

So based on that info above - I would have got a more clear shot using the 55-200 lens...

Not true. You'd probably get a 'sharper' image with the 35mm used at a correct aperture. In the f/4-5.6 rang like Dao suggested. You just need to adjust your aperture to that and give it a whirl. Just make sure your subject is staying relatively still, or that you have a high shutter speed.

My children aren't still in the least, and I can rarely get them to cooperate, so it is tough for me to get good clear shots of them --- that is probably due to my lack of knowledge. The best advice I was given was - when shooting in M, make sure I pay attention to my exposure meter inside the view finder (bottom). As long as the shutter speed is set to where it doesn't exceed too far right or left of the middle, I should get a good exposure. If I change my ap, I just make sure I adjust my shutter speed as necessary.

O hey tyler, if I set my shutter speed too fast, I would have over exposed the photos. So in the setting I was in, outside in the daylight, with reflecting water -- I couldn't set is much faster than 500...am I right??

 

[shufti]

Take into account which metering mode you are using. Your camera will modify shutter-speed based on this. Evaluative will find an exposure for the whole scene. Center-weighted will use the center and the central 20% or so of the scene. Spot will use just 5 or 10%. Selectively metering something darker than its surroundings may blow the brightest aspects of a scene. That may or may not be acceptable (to you) depending on your objective.

 

[KmH]

My children aren't still in the least, and I can rarely get them to cooperate, so it is tough for me to get good clear shots of them --- that is probably due to my lack of knowledge.

Experienced sport shooters don't have any trouble getting sharply focused photos of quickly moving subjects.

You're maybe discovering there is a lot more to doing quality photography than you antisipated.

What metering mode and focus mode are you using? Is your focus set to release priority or focus priority?

 

[photomama3]

Km, there is and it allows me to appreciate it so much more!! I am aiming for quality images!!

Question re: my original post - do you think my ISO was set too high (on auto)? It was avg between 800-1600.

I have my focus set to auto. I wanted to nail down proper exposure before I attempted manual focusing. Do u suggest otherwise?

 

[photomama3]

Km, there is and it allows me to appreciate it so much more!! I am aiming for quality images!!

Question re: my original post - do you think my ISO was set too high (on auto)? It was avg between 800-1600.

I have my focus set to auto. I wanted to nail down proper exposure before I attempted manual focusing. Do u suggest otherwise?

Metering mode is set to matrix

 

[shufti]

Question re: my original post - do you think my ISO was set too high (on auto)? It was avg between 800-1600.

Your camera shoots clean shots at 1600ISO from the look of the pictures. Auto modes on DSLRs often are limited to 1600ISO max anyway, regardless of the cameras higher capabilities. At the same time, if these were all made at F22, you probably could have shot 400ISO, F5.6 - F8 at a similar shutterspeed or faster. Faster would've frozen the waves breaking..the spray.

Just looking at one of your shots in a editor, and playing with the tone-curve, it occured to me you could've maybe got benefit from using a diffuse flash in the shots.

 

[photomama3]

Question re: my original post - do you think my ISO was set too high (on auto)? It was avg between 800-1600.

Your camera shoots clean shots at 1600ISO from the look of the pictures. Auto modes on DSLRs often are limited to 1600ISO max anyway, regardless of the cameras higher capabilities. At the same time, if these were all made at F22, you probably could have shot 400ISO, F5.6 - F8 at a similar shutterspeed or faster. Faster would've frozen the waves breaking..the spray.

Just looking at one of your shots in a editor, and playing with the tone-curve, it occured to me you could've maybe got benefit from using a diffuse flash in the shots.

I don't have a diffuser for my flash...is it something I might use often? Putting it on my list of things to research.

I am going to try this again tomorrow - with a much lower ISO, opening my aperture to about 5.6, but still use my 35mm lens. I will definitely post the results tomorrow night. You have been so helpful. Thank you

 

[o hey tyler]

You can open your aperture wider than f/5.6. But if you're having trouble getting focused shots on your children, try focusing on a stationary object like a fence or tree and see the difference between that, and a smaller aperture like f/16 or f/22.

 

[shufti]

If i had to second-guess a repeat performance, in the same light conditions, i would try 400iso (and maybe 800iso if it gets overcast, later in the afternoon), F5.6 and F8. Try bracketing each photo op..a couple at F5.6 then two more F8. Each time, two at F5.6 then two more of the same F8. Av mode - aperture priority.

Yes - buy a flash with an articulating, bounceable head and buy a diffuser attachment, for use a bit further down the road.

Question re: my original post - do you think my ISO was set too high (on auto)? It was avg between 800-1600.

Your camera shoots clean shots at 1600ISO from the look of the pictures. Auto modes on DSLRs often are limited to 1600ISO max anyway, regardless of the cameras higher capabilities. At the same time, if these were all made at F22, you probably could have shot 400ISO, F5.6 - F8 at a similar shutterspeed or faster. Faster would've frozen the waves breaking..the spray.

Just looking at one of your shots in a editor, and playing with the tone-curve, it occured to me you could've maybe got benefit from using a diffuse flash in the shots.

I don't have a diffuser for my flash...is it something I might use often? Putting it on my list of things to research.

I am going to try this again tomorrow - with a much lower ISO, opening my aperture to about 5.6, but still use my 35mm lens. I will definitely post the results tomorrow night. You have been so helpful. Thank you

 

[photomama3]

ISO is set low here - 200
Aperture 2.1

I was content with the sharpness of these photos. Should have I aimed for a crisper result? I am trying to determine what is preferred re: how sharp, crisp or clear an image is.

Can anyone post a pic or point me to a pic that would be considered the ideal sharpness?

Nevermind, I am done trying to post pics for now

 

[shufti]

I think everyone might point you to a different photo tbh.