RAW images look darker on laptop :(

nkashyap

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Hi,
I have a situation here..i am a beginner in SLR photography and i usually shoot in RAW using NIKON D5000. Last night i shot a local function in my community and as thr was not enuf light, i had to use ISO 1200 with shutter speed of 60..When i checked the results on camera LCD, the images looked properly exposed and light balance was all perfect.

Today when i transferred these pics to my laptop and opened them in VIEW NX2 to have a look, i was confused..the images were dark..no proper brightness and heavily dark at some parts of the image..i dont understand if the images looks perfectly fine on my camera LCD, why are they lookin so dark and heavily contrasted on my laptop..

Please throw some light on this..

Thanks,
Nishant
 
Laptop screens are not the best for judging photos.
 
Discrepancies in calibration and image interpretation.

Also check the brightness of your LCD in your camera menu if it allows you I change the brightness
 
I had the same issue and it turned out my LCD brightness on the camera was set to +3. I keep it at -2 now and get positive results. Also check the histogram in camera.
 
I know what you mean. your .jpg version is brighter than your raw version. RAW will be a little darker in lightroom and other post production software because lightroom takes the RAW image and creates its own thumbnail based on the RAW data (it does not use your cameras thumbnail which is used when previewing the picture on your camera) .JPGs are brighter because they already been set by your camera. With RAW photos its just raw data that is recorded and lightroom will take that data and create its own default thumbnail which is usually darker but meant to be editing anyways.

Hope that helps
 
Using a calibrated screen maybe a better choice for photo processing. Also, take a look at the histogram. The histogram of the image should give you some idea whether the photo is over or underexposed.
 
One of the very first things I teach my students in my DSLR class...is not to trust the image they see on the camera's LCD screen. To take that a step further, you have to be careful about trusting what you see on your computer monitor as well. Monitors aren't automatically correct. To be accurate enough for photo editing, you really need to calibrate your monitor with a calibration device.
X-Rite ColorMunki Display CMUNDIS B&H Photo Video
datacolor spyder4express | B&H Photo Video

But when you use a laptop, there is another issue. The screens usually use 'TN' technology, which will mean that different viewing angles will affect how you see the display...and because it's a laptop, your viewing angle will likely be inconsistent...and you may use the laptop in inconsistent locations (with different lighting etc.).
So the moral of the story is that laptops are a poor choice for photo editing.

Another thing to consider is that there is a difference between the preview you see (on the camera or thumbnail on computer) and when you open the Raw file. The Raw file is 'uncooked' and needs to be processes before it will look it's best.
 
Mike,

I have a question regarding laptops. Most of the forums say that laptops are bad for photo editing. I understand the monitor is a big problem but are there any other downfalls. I was thinking about getting a laptop with an external monitor. I will be doing portrait work and thought it would be good to have my laptop connected to my camera as I was working so I could preview my work while the client is with me.

Thanks.
 
The camera's rear LCD screen cannot effectively be used to judge color or exposure, because the amount, color temperature, and angle of ambient light falling on it is to variable. Plus the rear LCD cannot be calibarted.

Laptop screens also are subject to variations in the amount, color temperature, and angle of ambient light falling on it.

A few laptops have IPS type TFT LCD screens. Most have the much less desireable, very narrow accurate viewing angle, TN type TFT LCD displays.
TFT LCD - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
If they're way off, the most common explanation is that an adjustment has been made to your LCD's brightness. I usually find I get good results in normal indoor lighting with my LCD at -2, and outdoors with it at +2. Your histogram is your best bet for proper exposure. Also, learn how to find a neutral reference point and spot meter.

ie you should be able to point at some grass (as long as it's in the same light as your subject) and that should give you a neutral reading in your in camera light meter if you're metering in spot mode.
 

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