Really strange question

[Tight Knot]

Hi all,

Really strange question.
I have been asked to photograph and possibly video a welder whilst he is welding TIG and ARC, so he can use the photographs and video for educational purposes.
The goal is to actually show what the weld looks like while in progress, very up close and personal to the weld.
We have already tried using a video camera with a welders glass over the lens, and the centre came out way too over-exposed and the outside edges were under exposed.
The question also, is can the extreme bright light damage the camera?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Bruce.

 

[Edsport]

What if you put a piece of glass in the center like a lens from sunglasses to darken the center?

 

[Tight Knot]

Thanks for the idea, but unfortunately, it won't work as it wouldn't be dark enough. The welding glass we used was a #13, the darkest they make.

 

[fokker]

Maybe an infrared camera would be what you need - off the top of my head most of the light from a welding spark is in the UV end, so if you're only seeing in infrared you should be able to see the weld itself better in comparison to the flame - I think.

 

[Tight Knot]

Maybe an infrared camera would be what you need - off the top of my head most of the light from a welding spark is in the UV end, so if you're only seeing in infrared you should be able to see the weld itself better in comparison to the flame - I think.

Very interesting idea. I'll look into it, and let you know what happens. Thanks.

 

[RobNZ]

Video would be extremely difficult, massive dynamic range. A weld in progress is brighter than the sun, if your eyes are unprotected from an arc flash for a split second you will get local blindness for a few minutes, continous unprotected exposure will lead to arc eye and serious eye damage, so my guess is you could damage your sensor.

For stills, perhaps an extreme HDR shot? Fastest shutter speed available and stopped down to suit the weld, combined with a couple of ND filters if required?

 

[KVRNut]

Try using a pair of stacked circular polorizers against each other along with a ND8 or greater filter. Try it out by looking at the filament of a halogen light bulb. If not dark enough, stack another ND filter.

 

[Geaux]

Why not use actual welding #10 glass over your lense? Amazon.com: Filter Lens, 4 1/2" x 5 1/4" , Shade 10 (FPW1441-0049) Category: Welding Helmets and Glasses: Home Improvement


You can always take a picture of them pretending to weld, and add in the welding lighting in post lol

 

[FitzTML]

Have you looked into solar filters used by astronomers?

 

[Tight Knot]

Have you looked into solar filters used by astronomers?

Now that's a good idea:thumbup:. I will definitely look into that.

 

[sobolik]

Use 1 or more 500 watt shop lights to massively illuminate the work area. Keep the rest of the procedure as you did before (welders glass shield over camera lens) The solution to this is to get the dark areas lit up as much as possible. 1-3 shop lights is the place to start.

"The question also, is can the extreme bright light damage the camera" YES with out a doubt but not if you use the welders lens.

Another thing is if the weld melting metal is still washed out overexposed, break off or cut a dime size piece to stick to the original shield to double up the amount of welders shield filtration over the actual white hot weld. You just have to keep the doubled area lined up on the weld center when photographing.

 

[Bitter Jeweler]

Frankly, I don't think you will ever be able to photograph the weld, as it takes place, exposing both the weld AND the surroundings.

To those that say it is possible, I invite you to surf the net and find an example and post it. Both the weld action AND the suroundings.

 

[tirediron]

Frankly, I don't think you will ever be able to photograph the weld, as it takes place, exposing both the weld AND the surroundings.

Bitter's got it in one. The only way you might be able do this is to shoot one sequence for the arc, and a second for the workpiece. Not sure what sort of filtration you'd need, probably something in the order of a couple of #10s stacked, and even then, shooting the work it is going to be very difficult since the arc is so bright.

 

[pgriz]

Frankly, I don't think you will ever be able to photograph the weld, as it takes place, exposing both the weld AND the surroundings.

Bitter's got it in one. The only way you might be able do this is to shoot one sequence for the arc, and a second for the workpiece. Not sure what sort of filtration you'd need, probably something in the order of a couple of #10s stacked, and even then, shooting the work it is going to be very difficult since the arc is so bright.

Well, IF you shoot with two cameras, one filtered to show the bright weld, and the other somehow able to show the surrounding detail (maybe through the use of an occluding shadow?), and then the two would be overlaid.... Sounds like a challenging project for a technical keener. I'm too old for this stuff, but there are lots of really bright people on this forum... Isn't this where Garbz pops up and makes it simple?

 

[sobolik]

Frankly, I don't think you will ever be able to photograph the weld, as it takes place, exposing both the weld AND the surroundings.

Bitter's got it in one. The only way you might be able do this is to shoot one sequence for the arc, and a second for the workpiece. Not sure what sort of filtration you'd need, probably something in the order of a couple of #10s stacked, and even then, shooting the work it is going to be very difficult since the arc is so bright.

Well, IF you shoot with two cameras, one filtered to show the bright weld, and the other somehow able to show the surrounding detail (maybe through the use of an occluding shadow?), and then the two would be overlaid.... Sounds like a challenging project for a technical keener. I'm too old for this stuff, but there are lots of really bright people on this forum... Isn't this where Garbz pops up and makes it simple?

You will never "show the weld" in progress it is too hot and too bright and will always be washed out itself.. All you can attempt to do is brighten everything else to attempt to get closer to the dynamic range of the camera. i.e. prevent underexposing the surroundings.

welding - Google Search
http://www.nr.edu/welding/images/process2_lrg.jpg
http://www.nr.edu/welding/images/process1_lrg.jpg
http://www.nr.edu/welding/images/process3_lrg.jpg