Welcome to the forum.
Rather than throwing out a bunch of lenses that cost 2, 3 or 4 times as much as your camera...lets take a step back and go over the 'lingo'.
When looking at lenses, the first thing is the focal length (always given in millimeters). As you hopefully know, the longer the focal length, the smaller your field of view...usually for shooting subjects farther away. So for sports or wildlife, where you can't be right up close to the action, you would want a longer lens. 200mm, 300mm, 400mm etc.
A shorter focal length will give you a wider view, simple enough.
When it comes to zoom lenses and quality, we usually want to avoid the ones with a really large zoom range. For example, an 18-200mm lens will never be as good as a 24-70mm lens. So while a large range is convenient, it sacrifices quality.
The next thing to look at with lenses, is the maximum aperture. (given as an F number). The name of a lens always lists the maximum aperture. The lower the F number, the larger the aperture...and having the option to use a larger aperture is a great feature of a lens. For example, the 'cheap' kit lenses usually have a variable maximum aperture of F3.5 to F5.6 (it changes as you zoom the lens). A lens with a larger max aperture would be something like F2.8 (for a zoom lens) or even bigger on prime (non-zoom) lenses. F1.8, F1.4 or even F1.2.
A larger aperture is nice for a couple reasons. Firstly, a larger aperture allows you to use a faster shutter speed, which probably means sharper photos. Secondly, a larger aperture can give you a shallower Depth of Field (DOF), which can allow you to blur the background of a portrait, for example. Lastly, lenses with larger apertures usually tend to be 'top of the line' and are thus of a better overall quality than the 'cheap' lenses.
So now that we've looked at the focal length and maximum aperture, there are a few features to consider. One is stabilization (IS in Canon terms). IS will help to get sharper shots when shooting with the camera in you hands. It won't help to freeze the motion of moving subject, but it does help to avoid blur from camera shake.
Some Canon lenses have 'USM' in the name. This is the better type of auto focus motor.
As mentioned, Canon's top of the line lenses are designated with an 'L' (and a red ring around the front). It's hard to go wrong with an L lens, but they aren't cheap.
And of course, there is the quality of a lens....both image quality and build quality. This is harder to figure out...you usually have to get a few opinions, read a few articles & reviews etc. But as a quick point of reference...price is usually a good indication of quality.
There are certainly options from other brands besides Canon. Tamron & Sigma are two that make a full range of lenses that will work on your Canon camera. My 'rule of thumb' is that a top of the line Sigma/Tamron lenses are 80-90% as good as the top of the line Canon lenses...but at half the price. So if you don't need the very best and want to save a lot of money, Sigma & Tamron do have some good options.
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