Resealing a Canon QL?

jc.dempsey

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I've been into photography for a couple months (with a canon 70d), and as with all things I'm interested in I go all out.

I found a Canon QL TL ( or is it TL QL) at an antique store for around $30. It functions mechanically as far as I can tell, as the aperture stops down and the curtains are in good condition. I found a battery for the light sensor and I believe that works.

After doing some research I found a company that sells light seals ready to be mounted for $12.

My question is how would I go about removing the old light seals, as they are degraded and look extremely messy.

Any help is much appreciated.
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I found wooden tooth picks the best tool to remove the old foam in my Pentax.
You can cut the end at different angles to fit the various grooves and corners.
Always work away from any delicate parts like the curtains or view screen (when you change the mirror damper)
old foam will be nearly impossible to remove from the curtain/view screen without damage.
 
What would be a good solvent to use to remove any residue with minor effect on the camera?
 
naphtha.
if you google "solvent to clean camera seal" brings up some good 'how to' guides
 
I have used 97% isopropryl alcohol that you find in drug stores with q-tips.

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Thanks for the info. I'm going to try the isopropyl alcohol with q tips and tooth picks once the seals arrive. I don't think I'll have a problem with the door channel or hinge seals but I couldn't tell you about the mirror pad. That's going to be a fun one.
 
You can use many of the commercially-available solvents (like Goof-Off), but you simply need to be very careful when applying them. You can't get sloppy and slobber it all over or you may damage other components of the camera.

Installing new light seals is not a quick-n-dirty affair. You need to have finesse and patience.
 
You can use many of the commercially-available solvents (like Goof-Off), but you simply need to be very careful when applying them. You can't get sloppy and slobber it all over or you may damage other components of the camera.

Installing new light seals is not a quick-n-dirty affair. You need to have finesse and patience.
I agree, the last one I did I used automotive wax and grease remover very careful not to over apply and it was way more effective than cvs alcohol. I think alcohol is best if doing first time but takes a lot longer.

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I'm not worried about how long it takes I want to do it right.
 
One or both of the hinge pins on the back is probably spring-loaded which allows you to remove it, making clean-up of the foam goo easier on the back and body. Personally, I think foam kits are a waste of money. Get some thin adhesive-backed craft store sheet foam for the hinge seal for around a buck. As advised, keep the old foam debris away from the shutter--a film-size piece of index card or thin cardboard taped over the shutter frame on the film rails helps.

Do the door hinge first--the prime source of light leaks on most old SLRs. I'd not worry about the seals along the length of the door. They're usually there only to keep out moisture and dust.
 
I think I'm going to replace the hinge seal and then try a test roll with varying lighting conditions to see what happens.

Also; I've read about replacing the mirror padding as well. Is that really necessary?
 
If the mirror pad has crumbled into dust, it may not dampen the mirror when it comes up. You can either cause camera blur, or damage the mirror.
 
I think I'm going to replace the hinge seal and then try a test roll with varying lighting conditions to see what happens.

Also; I've read about replacing the mirror padding as well. Is that really necessary?

You can but just be sure to keep sticky old foam bits off the mirror. Cleaning mirrors is usually a recipe for scratching mirrors. Flip the camera upside down and carefully clear the old foam out with the pad on the bottom. They function as much as a light seal on many cameras.

I'd avoid Q-tips if your camera's foam is sticky. Whittle a popsicle stick or wooden coffee stir stick into a chisel point and scrape it out. Cotton swabs tend to bond with the goo and create a bigger mess.
 

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