Reverse mounting lens advice needed for macro

[Gavjenks]

To be clear: depth of field is mostly (or entirely? I don't exactly remember) a function of magnification of the in focus plane. Achieving the same degree of macro will give either precisely the same, or almost precisely the same DOF whether you do it via a dedicated macro lens, a reverse ring, a bellows, an extension tube, freelensing, additional optics added, or any other method.

 

[Overread]

Far as I've found magnification is the key criteria with depth of field in macro as well. If things like focal length have any effect then it is likely so marginal that its beyond practical use

 

[IronMaskDuval]

From my understanding, the reverse lens setup is to allow a non macro lens to focus up close (I could be wrong). When I use the reverse setup with a true macro, the subject has to be touching the lens before it can even get into focus range, and this occurs with a reversed 50mm prime. Either way, I've never been able to produce anything of value from it.

 

[Tommyk]

thanks guys i'll stick to just a prime macro lens then. Ok so then lets say I have the 105mm f2.8 Nikon macro lens. In order to achieve more than 1:1 I would need the extension tubes right?. I guess what I really want to achieve is more like 2:1. Any thoughts ?

What I'd like are high magnification insect photos similar to what Thomas Shahan has done with his spider photos except all insect. If the 105mm with tubes wouldn't work what lenses would you guys use and with what extension/ Tc to get those super magnified images
thanks

 

[Overread]

I'd buy a Canon and get a MPE 65mm f2.8 macro which goes from 1:1 to 5:1.

Otherwise read the article I linked to earlier.

Raynox close up lens attachments like their DCR 250 or more powerful MSN 505 and other models would be my choice. Once you go beyond around 65mm of extension tubes (ie one full set) it gets unwieldy to use (it's a lot of length and forward weight).

 

[Tommyk]

I'd buy a Canon and get a MPE 65mm f2.8 macro which goes from 1:1 to 5:1.

Otherwise read the article I linked to earlier.

Raynox close up lens attachments like their DCR 250 or more powerful MSN 505 and other models would be my choice. Once you go beyond around 65mm of extension tubes (ie one full set) it gets unwieldy to use (it's a lot of length and forward weight).

Thanks but I own Nikon D300s. unless I missed the information it looks like those Raynox lens attachments are designed for other brands or point and shoots I only have the Nikon to work with. I didn't see mention of Nikon SLR's anywhere. Also that Canon ens looks great but only have the Nikon to work with so I was looking for Nikon compatible lenses, closeup lenses or actual suggstions of what size lens with tubes. I read the link thank you but I want to be mobile and hand held in the field no bellows . If you can suggest something with compatability with Nikon D300s that would be appreciated. Also I do have a flash unit that will be used so that will definitely be incorporated. Thanks again

 

[Tommyk]

I'd buy a Canon and get a MPE 65mm f2.8 macro which goes from 1:1 to 5:1.

Otherwise read the article I linked to earlier.

Raynox close up lens attachments like their DCR 250 or more powerful MSN 505 and other models would be my choice. Once you go beyond around 65mm of extension tubes (ie one full set) it gets unwieldy to use (it's a lot of length and forward weight).

Found the info out there that it will fit any camera within the filter size range so it will work with the Nikon lenses. Thank you very much Overread that helped tremendously sample images looked pretty good to me although I'ma noob. Thank you guys for your patience with me beginner questions I appreciate the replies, Think I'll look into the DCR 250 to accomplish the magnification

 

[Overread]

No problem and glad you found the info! And yes the Raynox are high grade options and certainly very capable of high quality performance. Sadly I don't have any rough maths for working out how their diopter rating (power) affects the magnification, so experiment a little and see what works.


As a note remember that as magnification increases diffraction often increases as well. As a result you might well find that as your magnification increases you've got to use wider and wider aperture settings (smaller f numbers) in order to retain the best sharpness. With the MPE 65mm at 5:1 I might be at f5.6 or f4.

This is partly as a result of the fact that most (that I'm aware of) methods of increasing magnification result in a decrease in the effective aperture. So play around and find out what gives you a good depth of field combined with a good overall sharpness.

 

[Tommyk]

No problem and glad you found the info! And yes the Raynox are high grade options and certainly very capable of high quality performance. Sadly I don't have any rough maths for working out how their diopter rating (power) affects the magnification, so experiment a little and see what works.


As a note remember that as magnification increases diffraction often increases as well. As a result you might well find that as your magnification increases you've got to use wider and wider aperture settings (smaller f numbers) in order to retain the best sharpness. With the MPE 65mm at 5:1 I might be at f5.6 or f4.

This is partly as a result of the fact that most (that I'm aware of) methods of increasing magnification result in a decrease in the effective aperture. So play around and find out what gives you a good depth of field combined with a good overall sharpness.

Thank you and as with anything I think the downside is my plan of a ringflash will have to be thrown out due to this lens attaching to the front of the lens. Unless there is an adapter ring i could use on the front of the DCR 250. If the raynox is threaded I guess that is an option? If these cant be used with a ringflash Iwould have to use other flash which I don't mind I just am having the hardest time finding something simplistic in a flash bracket that is sturdy enough like a one armed bendable bracket but anything I see out there like that is poorly reviewed. Thanks again

 

[Tommyk]

No problem and glad you found the info! And yes the Raynox are high grade options and certainly very capable of high quality performance. Sadly I don't have any rough maths for working out how their diopter rating (power) affects the magnification, so experiment a little and see what works.


As a note remember that as magnification increases diffraction often increases as well. As a result you might well find that as your magnification increases you've got to use wider and wider aperture settings (smaller f numbers) in order to retain the best sharpness. With the MPE 65mm at 5:1 I might be at f5.6 or f4.

This is partly as a result of the fact that most (that I'm aware of) methods of increasing magnification result in a decrease in the effective aperture. So play around and find out what gives you a good depth of field combined with a good overall sharpness.

Thank you and as with anything I think the downside is my plan of a ringflash will have to be thrown out due to this lens attaching to the front of the lens. Unless there is an adapter ring i could use on the front of the DCR 250. If the raynox is threaded I guess that is an option? If these cant be used with a ringflash Iwould have to use other flash which I don't mind I just am having the hardest time finding something simplistic in a flash bracket that is sturdy enough like a one armed bendable bracket but anything I see out there like that is poorly reviewed. Thanks again

Ok found the front of the dcr-250 has a 49mm filter thread so I can use a flash. Thank again for all the help everyone .

 

[Overread]

I'd avoid ringflash - you can't diffuse it and its limited creatively.

Instead I'd suggest a normal speedlite flash - you can use something like a Lumiquest softbox to diffuse the light and then use some RAM-Mount brackets. Ram mount is made for bikes and holding GPS/Satnavs so for a camera and speedlite they are ideal and much more stable and stronger than a lot of flash brakets (which are oft unsuitable for macro because they wobble too much).

RAM Components - RAM Base - RAM Arm - RAM Adaptor - RAM Cradle

I think I used size C but I can't recall. You'll want a

2: Ball with a 1/4 screw thread attached (one to screw to the camera tripod mount slot or into the screw slot on a lens collar if your lens has a tripod collar)

2: Double Socket Arms

1: Double Ball Adapter to fit between the two sockets.

If you're using the screwthread on the camera base you might want to add another double ball adaptor and double socket arm for a bit more length to the arm setup.