sharp pictures

[kelly5577]

Did you buy the equipment at a camera store? Even if you didn't I would take it to your local camera store and show them what you are seeing. A good camera store will have knowledgeable people who can help you out. And, even if you pay a little bit more, I have found their advice and the ability to test the equipment out first is worth it.

I bought the camera from best buy a last year. I dont think it is a camera issue as much as I think I dont know what I am doing haha I have tried different lenes to see if it was a lens and i still couldnt get focus so I came to the conclusion it is me ha

if I dio take it in because I am not against the idea - can they do a test for a focusing issue? how does that work?

 

[photoflyer]

I had a similar issue with my T5 and my 85mm F 1.8. I think I mentioned this earlier. I took it to my local camera shop. We tried different lenses on my body and my lens on different bodies. In the end, it really came down to, the 85mm was not a good match for the T5. It would focus perfectly in live view mode. But not in normal mode. I had not purchased the camera there.

I subsequently purchased a 6D Mark II body from that shop and the same lens required Micro Focus adjustment to work perfectly sharp at f 1.8. That was something I actually learned about through this forum.

Forums are great and I have learned a lot from the very knowledgeable people on this one. But sometimes it's easiest to just hold the hardware in your hands, see the result and diagnose the problem.

 

[kelly5577]

I had a similar issue with my T5 and my 85mm F 1.8. I think I mentioned this earlier. I took it to my local camera shop. We tried different lenses on my body and my lens on different bodies. In the end, it really came down to, the 85mm was not a good match for the T5. It would focus perfectly in live view mode. But not in normal mode. I had not purchased the camera there.

I subsequently purchased a 6D Mark II body from that shop and the same lens required Micro Focus adjustment to work perfectly sharp at f 1.8. That was something I actually learned about through this forum.

Forums are great and I have learned a lot from the very knowledgeable people on this one. But sometimes it's easiest to just hold the hardware in your hands, see the result and diagnose the problem.

Thanks, if I take it in - take all my lenes??

 

[photoflyer]

Thanks, if I take it in - take all my lenes??

I would take my entire bag. Who knows what you will learn.

 

[vintagesnaps]

You're mixing up large and small aperture settings. An aperture of f4 is open larger than an aperture of say, f11. Look at the differences in the chart in this article.
22 Tips for Photographing a Lunar Eclipse

I thought maybe he'd been on the move because he's so far over to one side of the frame. Take time to frame the shot, to get the subject more in the picture. Trying to get photos of kids especially fairly close with a short lens might take some time to learn how to do.

Before taking the camera/lenses in, maybe do some more test shots. Set up some object(s) in plenty of light and take a few pictures at different settings and see if you can get some in focus and looking sharp.

 

[KmH]

Yep f/4 is a fraction (a ratio) and 1/4 of a pie is a lot bigger piece of pie than a 1/11th piece of a pie.
In other words f/4 is a bigger fraction (and a larger lens opening if the lens focal length stays the same) than f/11 is.
The f is the focal length of the lens. If you have a zoom lens, f changes as you zoom in/out.

So for a 70-200 mm zoom lens here's the math:
When the lens is zoomed in to 70 mm and set to f/4 the width of the lens opening is 70 mm/4 = 17.8 mm wide.

When the lens is zoomed out to 100 mm and set to f/4 the width of the lens opening is 100 mm/4 = 25 mm wide.

When the lens is zoomed out to 200 mm and set to f/4 the width of the lens opening is 200 mm/4 = 50 mm wide.

 

[kelly5577]

You're mixing up large and small aperture settings. An aperture of f4 is open larger than an aperture of say, f11. Look at the differences in the chart in this article.
22 Tips for Photographing a Lunar Eclipse

I thought maybe he'd been on the move because he's so far over to one side of the frame. Take time to frame the shot, to get the subject more in the picture. Trying to get photos of kids especially fairly close with a short lens might take some time to learn how to do.

Before taking the camera/lenses in, maybe do some more test shots. Set up some object(s) in plenty of light and take a few pictures at different settings and see if you can get some in focus and looking sharp.

Thank you. I plan on trying more today.
I will post what i get.

I guess the reason i am so confused is that the black square which is my focus point IA Is on his eye at the time of my shooting. So I'm wondering why I'm missing it so much when it is clearly set directly on his eye. Ugh

I appreciate your help

 

[kelly5577]

Yep f/4 is a fraction (a ratio) and 1/4 of a pie is a lot bigger piece of pie than a 1/11th piece of a pie.
In other words f/4 is a bigger fraction (and a larger lens opening if the lens focal length stays the same) than f/11 is.
The f is the focal length of the lens. If you have a zoom lens, f changes as you zoom in/out.

So for a 70-200 mm zoom lens here's the math:
When the lens is zoomed in to 70 mm and set to f/4 the width of the lens opening is 70 mm/4 = 17.8 mm wide.

When the lens is zoomed out to 100 mm and set to f/4 the width of the lens opening is 100 mm/4 = 25 mm wide.

When the lens is zoomed out to 200 mm and set to f/4 the width of the lens opening is 200 mm/4 = 50 mm wide.

Oh my goodness.... fractions lol i tiffany get it now. Thank you for that explanation.


So let me see if I'm understanding completely now...and i may be wayyy off.

If I'm at 4 stop...that is a huge chunk. So even if my black square focal point os on his eye... maybe it's missing because the focal point is muggy larger trhan just his eye area??

So if i have f7 its much snaller range of a fcoal point?? Somif i focus it in his eye.... it may be a better chance of focusing??

Am.i anywhere closer to understanding??


I focus so much on that black square focal point. I will toggle it up and down until i get that perfect spot at his eye. Then taje the picture. .... is this what I'm even supposed to be doing??? I use the ONE square. I know there are other options to use a cluster of squares...is this more of what i should be doing???

I was told use the ONE and place in an eye


Sorry for the long post... and THANK YOU

 

[KmH]

No.
The size of the focus point doesn't change.
The focus point isn't that square. In your T6I it's 2 narrow slits in that square. One is horizontal, one is vertical - a cross-type focus point.
The center focus point is the most accurate focus point you have. it's more sensitive and it also ha s adiagonal slit.
Yes, put the one focus point where you want the sharpest focus.

From the T6i Specifications:
AF Points
• 19 points
• All AF points are cross-type at f/5.6.
• Center AF point is diagonal cross-type at f/2.8.

Note: AF is always done with the lens as wide open as it can go.

The depth of field (DoF) changes and the more wide open the lens is the shallower the DoF is.
DoF is affected by more than just the lens aperture. It's affected as much by the point of focus (PoF) distance and the lens focal length.
Use an online DoF. Plug in different focal length, f/stop, subject distances (PoF) to see how DoF changes as those parameters change.
Online Depth of Field Calculator

To consistently make high quality photographs you have to be pretty well informed regarding both the technical and the artistic aspects of doing photography.
Here is a good online place to start learning about the techical:
Digital Photography Tutorials

 

[kelly5577]

No.
The size of the focus point doesn't change.
Yes, put the one focus point where you want the sharpest focus.

The depth of field (DoF) changes and the more wide open the lens is the shallower the DoF is.
DoF is affected by more than just the lens aperture. It's affected as much by the point of focus (PoF) distance and the lens focal length.
Use an online DoF. Plug in different focal length, f/stop, subject distances (PoF) to see how DoF changes as those parameters change.
Online Depth of Field Calculator

To consistently make high quality photographs you have to be pretty well informed regarding both the technical and the artistic aspects of doing photography.
Here is a good online place to start learning about the techical:
Digital Photography Tutorials

Thank you!!! I'll check them both out now! I appreciate it

 

[KmH]

I added a bit more info to my post #54.

 

[Cortian]

Thank you!!! I'll check them both out now! I appreciate it

Kelly, you're doing this The Hard Way. Nearly a week ago, in your anyone willing to help and give cc thread, I suggested...

I'm surprised nobody's mentioned it yet. Kelly, read Understanding Exposure, by Bryan Peterson. It will answer your questions about DOF and the like.

There's also a new section on flashes. I haven't gotten that far, yet.

You can find it at Understanding Exposure (Amazon).

You could save yourself a lot of time and frustration by reading that and, and this: Canon EOS Rebel T6i/EOS 750D User's Manual

As somebody noted in another thread: Read the User's Manual three times. Read it through, each time with the camera at hand. Play with the controls you study in the User's Manual, so they become something of second nature.

(I downloaded the PDF for my camera's manual into my iBook repository, so I could always have it to hand.)

Similarly, with Peterson's book: Actually try to replicate photos similar to what he uses to illustrate his points.

In doing these things you will actually learn how your camera operates, how to operate it and what to do to get it to do what you wish.

The membership here is real helpful, and real patient. That was one of the things that attracted me to this forum. But you're being fed information with an eye dropper and, because you don't understand the principles of photography, such as the Exposure Triangle, or how your camera operates, you're taking inaccurate stabs at what you think people mean, so you continue to get poor results.

It would be alike somebody who'd never driven a car, never had driving lessons, but knew how to start it, getting on a car forum and asking "The engine's running, I think, but, when I press the gas pedal nothing happens. What am I doing wrong?"

E.g.: Your last photo. You claimed "He actually was standing still lol and the focus square in my camera was on his eye when I shot it..." Well, if that was true: How did the subject end up way over on the right side of the frame, well away from the center focus point? Something doesn't jibe, but I'd be taking stabs in the dark trying to guess what, and so, I expect, would you.

 

[PhotoPro1]

I think it's your shutter speed and aperture. Try shutter of 320 and aperture of F8. Bump up your ISO as you need to take this shot outside. Use only the center square to focus on the eyes. Let us know what happens, otherwise you will need to have Canon align your lens to your body.

 

[zulu42]

I'm sorry if I missed it, but have we seen any test shots yet? Good light, static subject, forget about background blur... get that camera focusing how you want on an easy shot.

Keep at it! You're getting used to working the camera controls, showing it who's boss. You're beginning to understand the effect of the setting you make. Try not to get frustrated, and take the time to gain a real understanding.

You are right on the verge of making a couple of HUGE steps forward in your photography, and I know you'll be thrilled with the results very soon!

 

[kelly5577]

I added a bit more info to my post #54.

Thanks so much! I appreciate your time, patience, and helpful advice!!