Shooting inside without flash

[TakeTwo66]

I've used the same combination (D700 + 70-200mm VRII + monopod + tilt head) to shoot gymnastics at a practice stadium, with half the lights off. (No flash photography allowed as well). To freeze motion, I waited for the movement to peak (or where it stops momentarily) - and shot wide open at ISO 5000. I mounted a motor, and shot on high - just to increase the chances of getting sharp keepers.

I was actually pleased to see that the pics were more than acceptable for my purposes (small prints, up to 8x10). I would think twice about going more than 11x14" on these without judicious Photoshop PP though. As it was, the noise was easily corrected even just through Lightroom.

In fact, since I was shooting jpegs, I was more concerned about getting the White Balance right - as the lights were a mix of 'daylight' balanced Mercury and Metal Halides. Skin tones were 'Martian' at best, and had to custom WB via a white balance cap.

I've also used the same set up at weddings (including the monopod) with an older 80-200 AF-S (no VR) - and was happy to ditch the 'pod when I got the VRII (unwieldy).

With the 70-200mm VRII, the focusing was much quicker, more accurate -- even in dimmer light. I didn't have to override the focusing at all. Couple that with the nice high ISO output of the D700 - I think you should do fine. Again, unless you're making a 12x18 single prints of the ceremony shots, the noise is manageable. I imagine even with a 12x18 album, your images would be collaged anyway?

If the interior's ambient lighting is bright enough to read (and I guess it will be), then your combo should do fine. Of course, YMMV - and the best bet really is to recon the site before the event just to be sure?

One suggestion though, if you're spending for the monopod + head, you may want to get an Arca-Swiss type QR plate instead of the usual square ones. I found this out the hard way, shooting and moving with the pod attached. The Bogen/Manfrotto square plates that come with tilt head move around too much. Even after tightening the foot down to enough to crimp the cork bed, the foot ultimately moves as it loosens - especially if you pan a lot.

I ended up with a Kirk enterprises Tilt Head and a Kirk lens foot that dovetails into the head clamp. Much more positive.

HTH

 

[Mike_E]

You'll find that limiting your caffeine intake to be of great benefit along with increasing your cardio regimen.

If you have a head on the monopod try having the leg pointing forward of the lens by about 30 degrees and extended so that you can pull the camera down into your forehead putting good pressure on it. This along with your legs in a moderately wide stance will give you a pretty good foundation for your camera.

 

[shaunly]

I noticed in your signature that you shoot with Canon, this explains why are don't feel the need for auto ISO. Auto ISO is a bit different on Nikon body.

As for the OP, I'd shoot in manual, slowest speed possible for the situation, desire DOF, and auto iso. I have my auto ISO max set at hi0.3 as well. Just because its there doesn't mean it'll use it. On a monopod, 1/80th should be no problem. Good luck with your shoot.

auto ISO???? never. take control of your images. and shoot as slow as you are comfortable with

I see a lot of responses denigrating some of automatic controls that can be found on modern consumer and professional camera bodies. These are tools to be used. Being 'in control' does not mean always shooting manual, it means learning how your tools work and when to use them appropriately.

There is absolutely nothing wrong in using aperture priority, shutter priority, auto iso or even variable program. All of these have a particular function and operate in very predictable manners, the trick is to learn when and how to use them. Telling all and sundry that 'shooting in manual' is the only way to go is not an indication of greater skill and understanding but of a misunderstanding of the full gamete of the possibilities in controlling the camera.

As for using auto iso with a d700. The camera is near the pinnacle of technology, there is no reason to not make your task a little easier by tapping into its capabilities. The 70-200 VR-II can be used handheld down to about 1/30 sec with care. So, with auto ISO limit the lower shutter speed to what is comfortable, limit iso to a max of 3200 or 6400 (there might be some noise but that is better than no image at all), set shooting iso to about 1600 for d700, shoot in aperture priority to control your depth of field, shoot as wide as possible while having enough dof for the scene, set your high iso noise reduction appropriately, watch your histogram and adjust ec as needed for the first few shots. For any set aperture the d700 will shoot at selected iso and reduce shutter speed until the lower limit is reached at which point it will start to increase iso past the shooting iso. Set your auto exposure increments in 1/3 stops. As long as you have some light to work with the camera will perform. Expend your energy on the creative framing of images and in setting scenes as required. Set the camera up appropriately and let it do its job.

Try it at home a few times to see how it goes.

ok let me qualify what i said I use shutter priority and aperture priority but i still dont see a reason for auto iso. choose the appropriate ISO for the situation at hand taking in consideration image quality and then adjust your other variable around the ISO. and I dont always shoot M i usually use shutter priority. Back in the day with film ISO was the first consideration and i still believe that is the case today

 

[Trever1t]

thanks. I think I'm prepared. Well it's going to be a brutal day with a formal church wedding and reception and after that I have a coming out party at a restaurant to shoot.....it's going to be a physical challenge.

 

[Patrice]

thanks. I think I'm prepared. Well it's going to be a brutal day with a formal church wedding and reception and after that I have a coming out party at a restaurant to shoot.....it's going to be a physical challenge.

Good luck. Just relax a bit, trust your skills, trust your gear and I'm sure it will work out for you.

 

[Trever1t]

Thank you.

Scouted the Church out this afternoon. 5pm. Wedding will be at 1-3pm so hopefully more available light. To get the DOF I'll need with the lighting I'm sure I will need to use 6400. Spot metering on the subjects or at least center-weighted and damn the background highlights.

here's a sample taken with the available lighting high ISO. These are not posted for C&C, just to represent the low light capability of the D700 and what I am facing for lighting. I am open to any tip/tricks of the trade to take advantage of the lighting and gear I'll be shooting with. These are taken with the D700 and 24-70. I've decided I'll be using the 70-200 due to the distance from the subjects.

This is ISO 6400 pretty much out of the box

Here it is with some noise reduction in LR3 and I must admit I have not really played with those settings before.