With powerful, studio-type flashes, you can just set an f/stop, like say f/7.1, and light the general area with two flashes aimed up on the ceiling/corner juncture areas, and get "reasonable" flash exposures in the f/5.6 to f/10 area, depending on how big the area is, and where the people are within the whole area lighted by the flash.
One, 400 Watt-second Speedotron studiuo flash (which many Made in CHina companies would call a "1200" flash unit, seriously) and an 11.5 inch metal reflector aimed at a ceiling/corner area from 5 feet on a 13-goot tall; stand can light up a large room area, at from f/10 close-in, to f/5.6 at the periphery, at ISO 100. Meaning at ISO 200, you could get f/8 at the periphery; at ISO 400 you could gain another stop, and have f/11 at the periphery.
You learn how to "feel" the light from the flasp POP! You make a simple, educated estimation, shoot the shot, and then in that area you go, "oh, this is the brightest, best-lighted area, needs f/10 at ISO 100; a few feet farther way, you need f/8; a bit farther away, f/5.6--OR, you elevate the ISO to compensate for the difference in flash brightness.
If you have TWO flashes, you can light-up a larger area, and/or get more-even illumination from studio-flash units.
Use an umbrella if you would like to, and fire it off of the wall/ceiling junture area, and it can light-up a LOT of the room.
There is not a lot of need for TTL. SHUTTER speed is NOT important!!!!! These are going to be FLASH-lit pictures...set the shutter to 1/125 and LEAVE it there.