Sports Photography

tevo

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Hello TPF,


Tevo-The-Unemployed just got a job as a sports photographer - the company is called SPORTSWURLZ and I go to high school sporting events and take pictures, and upload them all to the website. Schools sponsor us to come and take pictures, and I get paid (^_^). They provide a 70-300 lens (for my D7000), but I am in the business to get a 70-200 2.8 of some kind. I shot my first game (volleyball) today (with my semi-gabbage 18-105), but it isn't a part of my job - I haven't been assigned anything yet. I just went out tonight to practice. Any advice from experienced sports shooters for a nab like me? I would say 30% of my photos turned out, but I was shooting in Cl/Ch and shot about 1500 photos tonight. Will upload some keepers later.


Thanks in advance!
 
wide open, high ISO. Thats all you can do unless you are a big time photographer and you are connected to the strobes hanging from the scoreboard during NBA games.
 
wide open, high ISO. Thats all you can do unless you are a big time photographer and you are connected to the strobes hanging from the scoreboard during NBA games.

Tonight I shot in the Sports setting on the D7000, which was basically wide open aperture, I set it to 2200-3200 ISO, and shot in continuous low speed @ about 200-250 on average. Shots came out decently, although a lot of them are OOF. How should I set up my AF? I was using AF-C 9 point (VR off of course)
 
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First off 30% keepers is a very low rate, do not use sports mode it is rubbish. Another thing shooting sports can get very expensive because you will need the best lenses to shoot inside and outside low light even with the lens they giving you it will be hard work
 
i am a canon user but i do shoot sports (mostly water polo, hockey and football)
last weekend i was at a water polo tournament and i used the EF 75-300mm III (a very cheap lens) with my 60D. I had my ISO at 2500 and shutter speed at 1/500. I didn't use a flash. The photo turned out fine but in some shots the water droplets had motion blur. mostly for land sports i find 1/500 to 1/1000 is plenty fast.

30% keep rate is not terrible for sports (unless it's caused of operational error). sometimes i miss the perfect moment where the player is taking a shot so that is not a keeper. a canon 1dx should solve the problem (12 fps).
 
I shot some volleyball this fall. Getting white balance correct is very important. Focus and exposure are also very important in keeping noise to a minimum. I use a D7000 so high iso is fine provided focus and exposure are good. You'll need shutter speeds in the 640-1000th range, minimum, to freeze the ball. Players turn out ok at 400-500th. The lens you're being provided won't really cut it for best results. I spent most of the time around 135mm on my 70-200, shooting wide open or at 3.2. I use all manual settings so nothing changes my exposure unless I change it. AF C with 1 or 9 pts. I also set the AEL/AFL button to AF ON. This allows me to continuously focus and removes focus lag on shutter release. The DOF preview button is set to AFL so I can lock focus quickly if needed. When shooting play at the net I shoot all vertical. Play on the floor is usually horizontal with some vertical. A battery grip is a huge help with your camera shooting vertical. Shoot in CH as there's no reason not to. Volleyball isn't real easy, nor is it terribly hard to photograph. It IS fun though. Good luck.
 
First off 30% keepers is a very low rate, do not use sports mode it is rubbish. Another thing shooting sports can get very expensive because you will need the best lenses to shoot inside and outside low light even with the lens they giving you it will be hard work

Agreed. This was my first time shooting a sporting event. I am going to every sporting event I can before I am assigned anything to try and hone my skills.

i am a canon user but i do shoot sports (mostly water polo, hockey and football)
last weekend i was at a water polo tournament and i used the EF 75-300mm III (a very cheap lens) with my 60D. I had my ISO at 2500 and shutter speed at 1/500. I didn't use a flash. The photo turned out fine but in some shots the water droplets had motion blur. mostly for land sports i find 1/500 to 1/1000 is plenty fast.

30% keep rate is not terrible for sports (unless it's caused of operational error). sometimes i miss the perfect moment where the player is taking a shot so that is not a keeper. a canon 1dx should solve the problem (12 fps).

The highest I was getting was 1/250 with 2200 ISO, indoors. My glass was not the best, trying to get my hands on a better lens.

Get that shutter speed up to 1/500 or, even better, 1/1000. Let's see some samples!

I will, preoccupied with some school stuff atm. Haven't had time to sort through anything :p
 
I shot some volleyball this fall. Getting white balance correct is very important. Focus and exposure are also very important in keeping noise to a minimum. I use a D7000 so high iso is fine provided focus and exposure are good. You'll need shutter speeds in the 640-1000th range, minimum, to freeze the ball. Players turn out ok at 400-500th. The lens you're being provided won't really cut it for best results. I spent most of the time around 135mm on my 70-200, shooting wide open or at 3.2. I use all manual settings so nothing changes my exposure unless I change it. AF C with 1 or 9 pts. I also set the AEL/AFL button to AF ON. This allows me to continuously focus and removes focus lag on shutter release. The DOF preview button is set to AFL so I can lock focus quickly if needed. When shooting play at the net I shoot all vertical. Play on the floor is usually horizontal with some vertical. A battery grip is a huge help with your camera shooting vertical. Shoot in CH as there's no reason not to. Volleyball isn't real easy, nor is it terribly hard to photograph. It IS fun though. Good luck.

Alright, so my shutter wasn't nearly as high as it should have been. Last night I shot my 18-105, not the 70-300. I back focus in AF-C, 9 point. I believe the WB was set to auto, or indoor fluorescent with b3. As for the composition, thats essentially what I was doing. I found that I got less blur shooting in Cl, but with a faster shutter and Ch I think I will produce better results. Thanks for the advice!


Edit: I also have a grip.
 
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30% of keepers in Volleyball is great. I am having a HELL of a time with volleyball this year. It's my first year shooting VBall and it's harder than hell. There is someone here who does it and I can't remember who or what post it was in, but I have about a million questions for him when I get time!

My first bit of advice: Get a good neutral, 18% graycard. You can use it to set your custom white balance and to set your exposure.
Get out of aperture priority. Either full manual or Shutter priority. Shutter is your first and foremost need. You'll be maxing out your ISO in a LOT of gyms. There are some with good lights, but most of them? SUCK. Lightroom or Photoshop CS5 and Adobe Camera Raw will save your arse in post processing high ISO images.
Learn to exposure to the max. For indoor sports I expose to the point JUST before skin would show a blow out. Turn on the highlight warnings and watch them.
When you reduce exposure in post processing noise gets better, hidden or goes away.
Football, soccer, basketball, baseball, track... EVERYTHING is easier than Volleyball.
Each sport will have a "sweet spot" for you. That will be where you like to shoot from in relation to the action or team you are shooting. It's not the same for everyone... I like to shoot with the ball coming toward me in football, but the guy I shoot with likes to be lined up with the team who has the ball. We both get some amazing shots and compliment each other well, so neither is the perfect spot... It's just perfect for each of us.
Don't forget that much of the story of the game goes on in the stands and on the sidelines or in the time out huddle.
Don't forget the waterboy, mascot, cheerleaders, manager, statistician...
Have fun. The kids are an awesome to work with!!!
 
30% of keepers in Volleyball is great. I am having a HELL of a time with volleyball this year. It's my first year shooting VBall and it's harder than hell. There is someone here who does it and I can't remember who or what post it was in, but I have about a million questions for him when I get time!

My first bit of advice: Get a good neutral, 18% graycard. You can use it to set your custom white balance and to set your exposure.
Get out of aperture priority. Either full manual or Shutter priority. Shutter is your first and foremost need. You'll be maxing out your ISO in a LOT of gyms. There are some with good lights, but most of them? SUCK. Lightroom or Photoshop CS5 and Adobe Camera Raw will save your arse in post processing high ISO images.
Learn to exposure to the max. For indoor sports I expose to the point JUST before skin would show a blow out. Turn on the highlight warnings and watch them.
When you reduce exposure in post processing noise gets better, hidden or goes away.
Football, soccer, basketball, baseball, track... EVERYTHING is easier than Volleyball.
Each sport will have a "sweet spot" for you. That will be where you like to shoot from in relation to the action or team you are shooting. It's not the same for everyone... I like to shoot with the ball coming toward me in football, but the guy I shoot with likes to be lined up with the team who has the ball. We both get some amazing shots and compliment each other well, so neither is the perfect spot... It's just perfect for each of us.
Don't forget that much of the story of the game goes on in the stands and on the sidelines or in the time out huddle.
Don't forget the waterboy, mascot, cheerleaders, manager, statistician...
Have fun. The kids are an awesome to work with!!!

Great advice, thanks a lot !
 
I shot some volleyball this fall. Getting white balance correct is very important. Focus and exposure are also very important in keeping noise to a minimum. I use a D7000 so high iso is fine provided focus and exposure are good. You'll need shutter speeds in the 640-1000th range, minimum, to freeze the ball. Players turn out ok at 400-500th. The lens you're being provided won't really cut it for best results. I spent most of the time around 135mm on my 70-200, shooting wide open or at 3.2. I use all manual settings so nothing changes my exposure unless I change it. AF C with 1 or 9 pts. I also set the AEL/AFL button to AF ON. This allows me to continuously focus and removes focus lag on shutter release. The DOF preview button is set to AFL so I can lock focus quickly if needed. When shooting play at the net I shoot all vertical. Play on the floor is usually horizontal with some vertical. A battery grip is a huge help with your camera shooting vertical. Shoot in CH as there's no reason not to. Volleyball isn't real easy, nor is it terribly hard to photograph. It IS fun though. Good luck.

Alright, so my shutter wasn't nearly as high as it should have been. Last night I shot my 18-105, not the 70-300. I back focus in AF-C, 9 point. I believe the WB was set to auto, or indoor fluorescent with b3. As for the composition, thats essentially what I was doing. I found that I got less blur shooting in Cl, but with a faster shutter and Ch I think I will produce better results. Thanks for the advice!


Edit: I also have a grip.

Using multiple focus points will screw you every time. Stick to one. I usually use one of the center ones and depending on the sport it could be the top, middle or bottom center point. Football is the next to the bottom-it balances out the field and keeps me from having an ocean of green. For Basketball I use the upper one...
I have found that if I am centering (I KNOW BAD ME...) I have a sense of motion or I am leaving my negative space to allow for the feel that the player is running into it or through the photo... Wrestling I fill the frame a lot or close to it, so the center point works and composure comes naturally. It may or may not work to use the center for you, but it's the best I can find to use and still get to keep 100% control over where my focus falls.
 
I shot some volleyball this fall. Getting white balance correct is very important. Focus and exposure are also very important in keeping noise to a minimum. I use a D7000 so high iso is fine provided focus and exposure are good. You'll need shutter speeds in the 640-1000th range, minimum, to freeze the ball. Players turn out ok at 400-500th. The lens you're being provided won't really cut it for best results. I spent most of the time around 135mm on my 70-200, shooting wide open or at 3.2. I use all manual settings so nothing changes my exposure unless I change it. AF C with 1 or 9 pts. I also set the AEL/AFL button to AF ON. This allows me to continuously focus and removes focus lag on shutter release. The DOF preview button is set to AFL so I can lock focus quickly if needed. When shooting play at the net I shoot all vertical. Play on the floor is usually horizontal with some vertical. A battery grip is a huge help with your camera shooting vertical. Shoot in CH as there's no reason not to. Volleyball isn't real easy, nor is it terribly hard to photograph. It IS fun though. Good luck.

Alright, so my shutter wasn't nearly as high as it should have been. Last night I shot my 18-105, not the 70-300. I back focus in AF-C, 9 point. I believe the WB was set to auto, or indoor fluorescent with b3. As for the composition, thats essentially what I was doing. I found that I got less blur shooting in Cl, but with a faster shutter and Ch I think I will produce better results. Thanks for the advice!


Edit: I also have a grip.

Using multiple focus points will screw you every time. Stick to one. I usually use one of the center ones and depending on the sport it could be the top, middle or bottom center point. Football is the next to the bottom-it balances out the field and keeps me from having an ocean of green. For Basketball I use the upper one...
I have found that if I am centering (I KNOW BAD ME...) I have a sense of motion or I am leaving my negative space to allow for the feel that the player is running into it or through the photo... Wrestling I fill the frame a lot or close to it, so the center point works and composure comes naturally. It may or may not work to use the center for you, but it's the best I can find to use and still get to keep 100% control over where my focus falls.


Multiple focus points are the antichrist, I use single. Usually to the left, middle, or top.
 

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