Sports Photo's

Discussion in 'Photography Beginners' Forum' started by Blazing Angel, Nov 8, 2008.

  1. A4Effort

    A4Effort TPF Noob!

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    ^ You are right but the OP stated that he was a beginner and as a beginner I would not recommend the burst mode because of the blurriness. Once a beginner gets better at it then I would try it. Thats all I tried to say.


     
  2. Blazing Angel

    Blazing Angel TPF Noob!

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    Yes SHE is a beginner ;). I find burst mode quite fun but you are right, most of my pictures are blurred, I definately need to get used to my camera before I can handle that kind of thing. Can anybody recommend what camera I should look into getting. I will be doing photography full time so weddings and studio work. I have a passion for sport though so I'd like to get involved in that as much as I can too. What would be the best camera to cover all these fields, and more importantly which ones are more affordable :D

    Thanks
     
  3. Dao

    Dao No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    If you are using a DSLR type camera, continuous shooting mode with AI Servo type Autofocus will work a lot better. As described above, the camera will autofocus continuously as the shutter button is pressed and held.

    I believe most of the entry level DSLR cameras will do that. But some of the prosumer type DSLR can shoot faster with the faster Frame Per Second (FPS) rate. i.e. Entry Level 3 fps, prosumer 5-6 fps, professional 10+ fps.

    However, lens is also very important to capture sharp, clear and properly exposed photos. In your case mentioned above, Fast Action with Low Light situation. A fast telephoto lens maybe needed. A fast lens mean a lens has a wide maximum aperture so that it allow the camera to shoot at FASTER shutter speed and still able to obtain a poperly exposed photo.

    Usually Fast, sharp telephoto lens = expensive lens :(


    As for the recommendation, you may want to start checking out some Entry Level DSLR type cameras and learn more about them. You maybe able to find some information about the cameras from dpreview.com. Once you step into the DSLR or SLR type area and start learning, you will find a big different between the camera you currently have and the DSLR/SLR type camera. (At least for the money you need to spend around the camera .. lol)
     
  4. cecilc

    cecilc TPF Noob!

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    Blazing Angel - Look ... A4Effort has tried twice to tell you that your blurred photos are caused by shooting in burst mode ... and that's absurdly not true! Don't even start to believe that .... However, your blurred photos are caused by attempting to photograph fast moving subjects with too slow a shutter speed in a dimly lit venue. I don't care if you're shooting in burst mode or taking just one shot .... too slow a shutter speed and "action" result in blurry images .... And your camera's just not up to it ....

    I don't believe that there's ONE camera or set of equipment that would generically work for weddings, studio work, and sports. Many wedding shooters I know own full-frame, high-megapixel cameras; fast, low-light lenses; and lights. And they usually do studio work, too, so those same specs may apply. However, most other sport shooters that I know (and I'll include me in there, too) go for several 1.3 or 1.6 crop bodies with a high-frame rate and large buffer; and fast, low-light, long lenses (and I'll tell you up front - this stuff ain't cheap!). If your passion is for sports photography and you're serious about it, then be prepared to spend some major bucks .....

    Good luck with that .....
     
  5. table1349

    table1349 Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    :thumbup:

    I would have to agree with cecilc. Probably the closest body you could find that would fit both bills would be a Canon 1D MIII at $4000.00. It's a 1.3 crop but has the capabilities for sports photography. I know some wedding photographers that shoot the 1D MIII with excellent results. It would also be capable in the studio for general portrait work. A second option would be a 5D MII full frame body for weddings/studio and a 50D 1.6 crop bodyfor sports. The two would run about the same as a single 1D MIII.They both could be used as second bodies for the oposite function. Keep in mind though that the body is a small part of the equasion. You will need good glass.

    Good studio/wedding glass and good sports glass are not always interchangeable. Sports glass needs to be fast and sharp. Fast aperture and fast focus speed. Portrait glass needs to be sharp but not necessarly fast glass or fast focusing. Wedding glass needs to be fast aperture and sharp but focus speed is not critical.

    There are some lenses that I own for sports shooting that qualify. My 24-70 f2.8L, 70-200 f2.8L fit the need well as does my 35mm f1.4L. Other lenes such at the 50mm f1.2L and the 85mm f1.2L do not have the focus speed to keep up with sports but are unmatched in the studio/portrait relm for their bokeh. Not one of the lenses lI have mentioned goes for under $1,000.00. If you are real serious about field sports photography you are going to have to look at long glass. The 70-200 is alright in relatively close for field events and it is always on my second body, but the 400 f2.8L is by far the best field lens available today. Mine set me back $6,700.00. The three types of photography that you have mentioned are probably the three most expensive in terms of equipment costs.

    I would suggest that you do some research into how far you want/are willing to go and then decide on what equipment you want/need. Only you can decide on what you are willing to spend and what you are willing to comprimise on. Good luck.
     
  6. A4Effort

    A4Effort TPF Noob!

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    I do not want to turn this into an argument. You are right about the slow shutter speed. But when you are in burst mode you camera tends to slow down after repeated shots in burst mode. I do admit that I was partially wrong but not completely. Maybe it doesn't happend with some cameras but with my 30D + 70-200 F/4 lens it did. I am just basing it off personal experience and based on people who I talked to.
     
  7. stsinner

    stsinner No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    I think that in order to take better sport's photo's you should learn the better u'se of the apostrophe.. Then we could take you more seriou'sly.. sheesh.....

    Anyway.. with a nice f2.8 lens, a nice speed light and a good eye, you could take some great pictures.. Your on-board flash won't do a bit of good for you, and neither will a slow lens.. Get yourself a nice 18-200 and a good flash, and you're in business.
     
  8. A4Effort

    A4Effort TPF Noob!

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    I know this was a sarcastic statement but still rude none the less.
     
  9. Blazing Angel

    Blazing Angel TPF Noob!

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    well stsinner its a good thing this is a PHOTOGRAPHY website and not an english language site hey!!
     
  10. cecilc

    cecilc TPF Noob!

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    I'm certainly not trying to make this anywhere close to an "argument" ... but you need to understand this. You're still trying to equate "blurry photos" with "burst mode" when shooting, and they are two separate issues .... I hate to see you confused about this and I'd hate for you to confuse other shooters with this misconception.

    "Burst mode" is a camera mechanical function - period. In fact, burst mode is not even dependent on focus or exposure. You can point your camera in any direction and shoot in burst mode - maybe something will be in focus, maybe not. Maybe it'll be properly exposed, maybe not. But you will be shooting in burst mode ....

    "Blurry photos" is a function of exposure and/or camera/subject movement during that exposure. Again, whether it's one shot or burst mode it won't make a difference if the exposure is incorrect or the camera/subject moves during the exposure.

    If you're going to equate "burst mode" with "blurry photos" then if you take a "blurry photo" in "one-shot mode" then you also have to equate that "one-shot mode" with "blurry photos", too .....

    I would also suggest looking at the "why" of your camera tending "to slow down after repeated shots in burst mode." If you're shooting in an automatic mode, then it's possible that your camera is changing shutter speeds as you're shooting; it's possible that your focus has jumped to a new target and is trying to acquire it before it fires the shutter again .... But you can test this ... and I'd recommend doing that.

    I give you "A" 4 Effort on this .... but please don't equate a purely mechanical issue for/with an exposure issue ....
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2008
  11. A4Effort

    A4Effort TPF Noob!

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    Alright, alright. You are correct about everything you wrote above. I think what I am trying to convey is not coming out the way I want it too. Since I can't convey my message, I am going to stop trying.

    Nice little "A" 4Effort side comment. It really helps me form a clear assessment of your character. (Sarcasm)
     
  12. cecilc

    cecilc TPF Noob!

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    :confused:
     

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