Sunrise shadows at beach, options?

[NancyMoranG]

I am ordering PSE 11 today as my 1st pp product. I will be taking lots of beach photos, birds, sunrise/sets. This is an example of a scene. Sunrise was directly to the right and made very dark shadows in the grasses.
Options for handling this in pp or with filters? other settings? 1/400, 3.2, 13mm, ISO 200.
I used my Windows Photo to raise highlights and shadows.


Sandwich Creek sunrise by Nancy Moran G, on Flickr

thank you for the help!
Nancy

 

[KmH]

When the Sun is low on the horizon (less than 30° above the horizon) and 90° to the lens axis, a CPL filter works well to saturate the sky nicely (blues and greens actually).
CPL = Circular PoLarizing filter.
A CPL is actually 2 pieces of glass and the front glass can be adjusted to control the effect.
Angles are important factor when using a CPL. When the Sun is outside the angles listed above, a CPL delivers an uneven effect in the image frame.
How to Use a CPL Filter | eHow

As far as the shadows they will be long, dark, and have sharp edges because the Sun is an apparently small light source (by being 93,000,000 miles away from Earth).

Because a digital camera image sensor has less dynamic range than the human eye, your best bet is to use the HDR method to add definition to the shadows.
High Dynamic Range photography technique - Bing

 

[Derrel]

Sometimes dark shadows help as a counterpoint to brighter areas, and add depth, drama, and "weight". In this shot, the bright sky area on the top right appears a bit too bright and overexposed, and although I "get" the idea, the concept of the sunlight sweeping across the landscape and illuminating that lovely bridge with golden light, I think the overall look of the entire image might be a bit too bright for that effect to be maximized.

Not being able to see the original exposure, my guess is that the highlights on the right MIGHT be blown totally, or there might also be a bit of what is called highlight recovery possible...

This wide a dynamic range can be tricky to capture in one single exposure. This is when a RAW Capture shot is really,really helpful, and a two- or three-shot HDR or "blend", one optimized for the highs, one for the lows, can really help the photographic process more closely approximate what the human eye can perceive.

 

[NancyMoranG]

Thank you Keith and Derrel, your wisdom and your time is appreciated!
Correct Derrel, the right side of photo is THE sunrise, and to newbie me, it is blown, blown..

yes, I think an HDR is in my future. Will have to try bracketing this week, and learn about blending photos. And with my D7000, will switch to 1 card jpeg, 1 card RAW. Raw will be new to me also.

I will be shooting a lot of this type scape, and the birds, so all info is helpful
Nancy

 

[JTPhotography]

Also, you went wide here at 13mm, covering differing brightness areas of the sky. You might considering zooming in a bit and placing the sun more to your back, thus reducing the dynamic range.

 

[Derrel]

Also, you went wide here at 13mm, covering differing brightness areas of the sky. You might considering zooming in a bit and placing the sun more to your back, thus reducing the dynamic range.

Now that's a good way to handle this type of wide DR scenario; simply LIMIT the excessively bright area by not framing it. JT's got a very good idea there.

 

[NancyMoranG]

Thank you JT and (again) Derrel. I liked the curve of the channel that I felt led my eye, but right INTO the sun. The grasses can be mucky as this was only 1/2 tide, but will try out your suggestions.
Looking forward to our fall colors just starting, and theses grasses wil all start to glow!
that's why I am trying to practice NOW!
Nancy