Switch from Canon 450d EOS. Which mirrorless to consider.

[lbsu]

....
If your obsession is a Mirrorless camera, and you are looking for higher image quality, smallish size and weight, then FUJI X system would be a very sensible choice. ...
Now, why do you need a full frame?

Thank you sashbar for such s comprehensive reply.
I just now read reviews on Fuji Xt1 and came to saconclusion this is my #1 on the list.
Metal body and lenses, light weight Leica like look.
I have some concerns though. It is said in the reviews this cam has not the best dynamic range. I learnt what it is just recently when I started looking for a new cam. From my understanding a low dynamic range means the faces may be too dark and lack details if shot in front of sun or other light background. Is that right? And how this Fuji cam tackles this problem?
Another question is how the cam works without image stabiliser? Is it essential for low speeds and especially for video?
Also, video format is mov. I've found that mov is not good for Final Cut Pro. You need a converter and I do not trust converters as I think they can deteriorate the original quality.

 

[sashbar]

....
If your obsession is a Mirrorless camera, and you are looking for higher image quality, smallish size and weight, then FUJI X system would be a very sensible choice. ...
Now, why do you need a full frame?

Thank you sashbar for such s comprehensive reply.
I just now read reviews on Fuji Xt1 and came to saconclusion this is my #1 on the list.
Metal body and lenses, light weight Leica like look.
I have some concerns though. It is said in the reviews this cam has not the best dynamic range. I learnt what it is just recently when I started looking for a new cam. From my understanding a low dynamic range means the faces may be too dark and lack details if shot in front of sun or other light background. Is that right? And how this Fuji cam tackles this problem?
Another question is how the cam works without image stabiliser? Is it essential for low speeds and especially for video?
Also, video format is mov. I've found that mov is not good for Final Cut Pro. You need a converter and I do not trust converters as I think they can deteriorate the original quality.

Ibsu, any camera will fail if you shoot someone with the sun or a strong light in the background. The face will be dark or the background will be blown out, depending on how do you choose to expose it, with ANY camera. You just need to use a fill flash.

Now, you can fix it in post production if the contrast is not too high and the highlights are not blown but just severely overexposed. You can either use local adjustments, brightening up the subject or just recover highlights, if you have chosen to overexpose the sky/background. In that respect the ability to recover highlights or pull shadows with X-T1 is impressive. But, again, it depends on what digital editor you are using. Some editors do it better than others. CaptureOne Pro RAW convertor/editor is excellent here.I am still amazed at how a seemingly blown white sky is being turned by C1 into a properly exposed one with detailed clouds, good colors etc.

Image stabilizer is really good for low speeds, you can easily lower it by two or three stops compared to standard non-image-stab shooting. It is widely used now, mostly all the time, apart from very high speeds or tripod where it is better to switch it off.

I know nothing about video. If you do a lot of video, FUJI is probably not the best choice, look at Panasonic. If still photography is your thing, then XT-1 will be a big upgrade.

Yes, and by "this site" in my previous post I meant this site: X-Photographers

 

[lbsu]

Some editors do it better than the others...

What about Photoshop raw processor?

 

[sashbar]

Some editors do it better than the others...

What about Photoshop raw processor?

I prefer the latest CaptureOne Pro to Adobe products.

 

[lbsu]

get a camera with a kit 18-55 zoom (which is not really a kit, it is a quality lense and comes highly recommended) plus a couple of used primes from eBay.

Sashbar, thanks for your most helpful remarks.
Which prime lenses I should consider first? One should be for landscapes.

 

[sashbar]

get a camera with a kit 18-55 zoom (which is not really a kit, it is a quality lense and comes highly recommended) plus a couple of used primes from eBay.

Sashbar, thanks for your most helpful remarks.
Which prime lenses I should consider first? One should be for landscapes.

I do not shoot landscapes, so can not give you a proper advice here. All I can say is 35 mm f/1.4 is a fantastic lense, very popular, crazy sharp with excellent color and contrast rendition, and it is not too expensive, about £270 mint on eBay, many FUJI shooters will tell you it is a must buy, but you will probably need something wider for landscapes.
14 mm is a great lense as well, but it is bigger and more costly. There is also the new 16 mm lense, 23 mm is a great lense from what I heard... I guess all three would be great for landscapes. There is hardly a dog in FUJI XF line to be honest, probably 18 mm pancake is a bit weaker than the rest.
I have 35 mm and 56 mm primes, both are top, top glass, and also a little 27 mm pancake lense which is also very good, especially for street shooting, when you want it light and compact.

 

[lbsu]

I've got my new Fuji xt1 with 14 mm and 35 mm lenses. First impression I an very pleased with what i got. Can't wait to test it properly on the next weekend.