The glory of an external flash

Just mounting the flash isn't enough, you still have to control it which is the entire reason to get one.

Right. And the reason I wanted the SB-600 instead of the SB-400 is because it has 2 pivot points instead of one. So when I take portrait-oriented shots, I can still aim the flash upward. From what I have read, the SB-400 only has one pivot point, meaning that if you take a portrait-oriented shot with the flash in the hotshoe, you can only angle the flash to the side of the subject, rather than above it.
 
Yeah. I have an external flash as well. I can't say I've used it enough at all. I tend to not photograph people to much so the flash never felt like a necessary use to me. Mine's got the two pivot points also.
 
Right. From what I have read, the SB-400 only has one pivot point, meaning that if you take a portrait-oriented shot with the flash in the hotshoe, you can only angle the flash to the side of the subject, rather than above it.

Correct, the SB-400 will only tilt one way, but I bought one to go with my D40 a couple of days ago and am finding the same thing as you, the results are incredible, I've just been shooting landscape or bouncing off a wall.

I have found when bouncing off a 9 foot ceiling I need to dial in +2 stops exposure compensation and even direct shooting needs +1 stop, does the SB-600 need much or any compensation?
 
I love external flashes. They have really helped me go from amateur photography to....

No-longer-amateur looking photos..

I love it, but I need a better one. When the one i have is fully charged, its great, when the power is down...it's awful. Bounce flash is awesome.
 
Here's one I took this evening, it's a family snap-shot so no C&C please :mrgreen: - D40, kit lens at 18mm, SB-400 bounced off the 9 foot ceiling, this shot would not have been possible with the built-in flash.

GuitarAb_small.jpg
 
I have found when bouncing off a 9 foot ceiling I need to dial in +2 stops exposure compensation and even direct shooting needs +1 stop, does the SB-600 need much or any compensation?

Not that I've found so far, but we'll see. I have a d40 as well and have really enjoyed it so far (4 months). :)
 
The SB400 is fine as a fill flash on the go, or landscape shots at a party. Indeed when you want to get creative with your angles, the SB400's limitations shine through, not the least of which is its limited configuration capabilities. However it is cheap, and a nice way to get introduced to flash, though the extra 60 bucks for the SB600 makes it difficult to justify going so "low".
 
I have found when bouncing off a 9 foot ceiling I need to dial in +2 stops exposure compensation and even direct shooting needs +1 stop, does the SB-600 need much or any compensation?
Realize, that the camera is controlling the flash, and while it is smart, its not omniscient. Which means, it has no way of knowing you are bouncing the light. For example, say you are standing two feet away from your subject, pointing the flash dead on - the camera isn't going to fire the flash at 1/1 strength. It might dial it all the way down to 1/8th, 1/16th strength depending on your Aperture and Shutter Speed settings, because the SB600 is a strong strobe, and firing at full power at such a close distance may well wash the entire scene out. So it compensates, by dialing down the power.

Now, say you have the exact same setup, yet you have BOUNCED the flash. Bouncing the flash automatically reduces the light reflected back - but the camera has NO WAY of knocking you bounced the flash. So it compensates for the DISTANCE between the camera (and mounted flash), and the subject. So already you know bouncing the flash reduced and spreads the light making it softer - well when you are that close the camera FURTHER cuts down the power. That is why you are having to compensate for exposure. Thats why high ceilings are neccesarily ideal, especially when you are in AUTO-mode on the flash. For these situations, it is best to simply switch to MANUAL mode on the SB600 (or go into MENU settings and adjust the power of the SB400) and experiment with power (1/1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc) to get the best results.
 
I love external flashes. They have really helped me go from amateur photography to....

No-longer-amateur looking photos..

Shhhhh... don't tell people the secret. They all think it's about fancy lenses and bodies when really it's about fancy lighting. ;)
 
Here's one I took this evening, it's a family snap-shot so no C&C please :mrgreen: - D40, kit lens at 18mm, SB-400 bounced off the 9 foot ceiling, this shot would not have been possible with the built-in flash.

GuitarAb_small.jpg

Be aware, particularly with low ceilings and wide angles, of what you see happening in the top of the frame: the light will bleed from the bounced surface into the image. The way to avoid this is probably to increase your flash's angle, or change the way that you are framing the photo. Sometimes it is unavoidable.

Bounced flash is a really fast way to add polish to your images. At the same time it's a great opportunity to work with light-- play with bouncing off of different surfaces and angles-- a shot with the light bounced from the wall will look really different from one with the light coming off the ceiling. Also, it will vary by flash, but some flashes come with a built in bounce-card, a white piece of plastic that pulls out from above the flash. If you don't have one built in you can make one out of an index card and a rubber band. The bounce card will direct a small amount of light forward when bouncing, so that you get a little more 'pop' in people's eyes. Purely bounced flash tends to make people's eyes shadowed, much like shooting at high noon.
 

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