Using a flash

Discussion in 'Film Discussion and Q & A' started by kamelean, Mar 2, 2012.

  1. kamelean

    kamelean TPF Noob!

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    I have a Yashica LM, and I just got a Yashica Quicklite Pro 50DX. I'm have no clue where to start with this, as I have just used a flash on auto on a digital camera. I can't find a manual for this flash anywhere for free. How should I go about setting up the flash?


     
  2. kamelean

    kamelean TPF Noob!

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  3. djacobox372

    djacobox372 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    On manual flashes you typically set the ASA/ISO, and then you use the suggested aperture for the distance. Shutter speed doesn't matter since the flash is instant, and I'm fairly certain the Yashica LM will sync at all speeds.

    In the photo you posed it looks as if it's set to ISO 100, so according to the dial you'd use F2 for 30 feet, f4 for 16 feet etc.

    It's possible that, due to the age of the flash, it may not put out full power. But you'll have to test it to see if you need to account for that or not.
     
  4. dxqcanada

    dxqcanada Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    Leaf shutters have no max sync speed. Shutter speed will control how much ambient light will expose the film.

    Flash dial -> Set the ISO arrow to match your film speed.
    Focus on your subject with camera.
    Look at focus scale on camera to find distance to subject.
    Flash dial -> find matching aperture to that distance
     
  5. kamelean

    kamelean TPF Noob!

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    Ok, I get everything that you guys have said, except the shutter speed. Am I just going to have to use trial and error for that, or is there a rule for it too?

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  6. dxqcanada

    dxqcanada Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    What you can do is take a meter reading using the aperture that is indicated by the flash.
    ... so if the flash gauge says f4.5 ... take a meter reading to find the ambient light exposure shutter speed at f/4.5.
    Then use this as a base to lighten/darken the areas that are not being exposed by the flash.
     
  7. djacobox372

    djacobox372 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    you use the shutter speed to control how
    much natural light affects your photos, it has no impact on flash output since the flash duration is faster then your fastest shutter speed.

    the aperture numbers suggested by the flash assume the flash is your primary light source and natural light is negligible. If thats not the case and u have a lot of natural light, or are using a slow shutter speed to let more natural light in, you may need to compensate by stopping down a bit.

    Unfortunatly your flash has a fixed output so the only way to adjust its impact is to adjust aperture.
     
  8. kamelean

    kamelean TPF Noob!

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    Alrighty, sounds good. I just tried it, and scared the heck out of the cat, hehe. We'll see how it works in a few weeks when the roll comes back. Seems like a good deal though, because I won the flash on eBay for $1.
     
  9. kamelean

    kamelean TPF Noob!

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    Also, I learned not to look directly at the flash when plugging in the sync cord. The fash went off about 8 inches from my right eye. It was so bright, I tasted it.
     
  10. Gromit801

    Gromit801 TPF Noob!

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    Ok, I don't usually laugh at other's misfortunes, but that's funny.
     
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  11. Compaq

    Compaq Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    If you're planning on bouncing it, you'll just have to know your flash unit so good that you can predict what settings to use to get a (reasonably) good exposed photo. Being aware that if your distance to subject doubles, only a fourth of the light's intensity is captured. That's equal to two stops. And then there's light loss in the actual reflection on the roof/wall, plus the distance from roof to subject plays a role.

    Experimentation is key. I was able to experiment on a digital body, which made it much easier (instant feedback).
     

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