Using the Sekonic Flashmate L-308S-U

[gossamer]

So now that I got the light meter to work, and perhaps I should start a new thread, but I have a few questions as it relates to my Flashpoint XPLOR 600. I can effectively communicate with the monolight using the wireless transmitter.

- Why does the light meter and my camera measure in terms of 1/125 or 1/60 when the Flashpoint and wireless transmitter operate in 1/128th or 1/64th?
- I set the Flashpoint to manual, 1/128 and the light meter and camera to 1/125, making it significantly under exposed. When I take a picture with the flash to determine the proper exposure with the light meter, it records 1.0, which is not possible/desirable.

What am I doing wrong? :-(

I just realized what I was doing wrong with the flash. The 1/128 and 1/64 is a ratio(?) of power as compared to full power.

I've learned an awful lot in the last 24 hours - I can't believe I've come this far, and also looking forward to learning more.

 

[smoke665]

just realized what I was doing wrong with the flash. The 1/128 and 1/64 is a ratio(?) of power as compared

LOL. Light bulb came on?

So you're using one light?? What type of modifier? Octabox, umbrella?

 

[gossamer]

just realized what I was doing wrong with the flash. The 1/128 and 1/64 is a ratio(?) of power as compared

LOL. Light bulb came on?

So you're using one light?? What type of modifier? Octabox, umbrella?

Yes, light bulb came on Just one light with a Parapop 38"

 

[gossamer]

I thought that all of you that have been helping me learn how to use a lightmeter, not to mention the Flashpoint XPLOR 600 and a Parapop 38" (I didn't even know how to put it together before yesterday) would like to see how one of the shots I took over the weekend came out. This is with my D500 and the 24-70mm f2.8.

 

[smoke665]

Beautiful lady that seems quite relaxed in front of the camera.

Question, are you saving your images to card as Raw?? If not you should be.

Couple of suggestions, the WB seemed off. Typically I always leave my camera set on Auto WB, then use something like this Vello White Balance Card Set for Digital Photography WB-CS B&H as the first shot in any setup. Then in post I set my WB using the eye dropper tool and the cards.

From personal experience in photographing the older women in my life, I've found that the clamshell setup clamshell lighting: | LIGHTBASICS is hard to beat. By moving the main light more toward on axis with the camera, slightly above the eyes and slightly angled down, then using a "silver" reflector down low and angled up to bring light back into the shadows, it's possible to get nice lighting on the face and de-emphasis the effects of aging. I've also used a white reflector but if there's any uneven redness or age spots, the silver seem to work better. Also, when lighting an older woman, softer light is better, moving the light in close will wrap around, de-emphasizing any wrinkles and even out skin tones.

Lastly when you meter, you want to meter at a couple of different places on the face. The tip of the nose for example and closer to the eyes. Getting the exposure right on the face and letting the background go darker.

Here's a quick adjustment, sorry I've got to run so I didn't have time to do much with it but maybe it will give you an idea.

 

[gossamer]

Beautiful lady that seems quite relaxed in front of the camera.

Question, are you saving your images to card as Raw?? If not you should be.

Yes, only RAW.

Couple of suggestions, the WB seemed off. Typically I always leave my camera set on Auto WB, then use something like this Vello White Balance Card Set for Digital Photography WB-CS B&H as the first shot in any setup. Then in post I set my WB using the eye dropper tool and the cards.

Yes, I recently got a Lastolite card. I also typically use AutoWB. I agree the WB could be off. The problem here was that there were like 15 women I was shooting, in locations all around the house and outside. I just couldn't reshoot for WB every time. I set the WB to the first shot I took of the grey card and may have left it for all locations, and just reverted to AutoWB in Photoshop at the end. It's tough to have to constantly fiddle while the subject is waiting.

From personal experience in photographing the older women in my life, I've found that the clamshell setup clamshell lighting: | LIGHTBASICS is hard to beat. By moving the main light more toward on axis with the camera, slightly above the eyes and slightly angled down, then using a "silver" reflector down low and angled up to bring light back into the shadows, it's possible to get nice lighting on the face and de-emphasis the effects of aging. I've also used a white reflector but if there's any uneven redness or age spots, the silver seem to work better. Also, when lighting an older woman, softer light is better, moving the light in close will wrap around, de-emphasizing any wrinkles and even out skin tones.

I do have two Flashpoint XPLOR 600s, so I'll read through and practice.

The problem I was having was that my light meter said the image was properly exposed, but it was just too much light. Not the effect I wanted. I was stopped down to f2.8 to attempt to blur the background, but also need to figure out a DoF calculator to find the right distance. It's tough to squeeze all that in while in someone's kitchen or living room where there is limited space anyway.

The other problem I was having (and have always had with flash) is that, when shooting in manual with flash, the exposure meter on the camera always shows under exposed because it's metering based on the light in the room without the flash. How do I work around that so the camera thinks it's properly exposed?

Lastly when you meter, you want to meter at a couple of different places on the face. The tip of the nose for example and closer to the eyes. Getting the exposure right on the face and letting the background go darker.

Is it really that specific? Is this for portraits or all shots? If it reads 1/32 on the nose and 1/32+3 on the eyes, when I'm trying to achieve f2.8, which would I choose?

Here's a quick adjustment, sorry I've got to run so I didn't have time to do much with it but maybe it will give you an idea.

I actually think this makes the woman look older. I'm assuming that's not the objective...

 

[smoke665]

I do have two Flashpoint XPLOR 600s, so I'll read through and practice.

Use the instruction then for two lights, plus the reflector.

Yes, I recently got a Lastolite card. I also typically use AutoWB. I agree the WB could be off. The problem here was that there were like 15 women I was shooting, in locations all around the house and outside. I just couldn't reshoot for WB every time. I set the WB to the first shot I took of the grey card and may have left it for all

Just so we're clear, you always leave your CAMERA in Auto WB. You use your shot with the target card to adjust the WB in "post processing" by sampling the target with the eye dropper tool, then synching all other images to this one. Unless your lighting changes substantially you really shouldn't have that much difference between locations in the same house with the same studio lights. When you go outside you will.

The problem I was having was that my light meter said the image was properly exposed, but it was just too much light. Not the effect I wanted. I was stopped down to f2.8 to attempt to blur the background

Studio lighting is a little different then natural light, instead of blurring the background you want to expose for the subject, which in turn will take your background dark. "the other problem I was having (and have always had with flash) is that, when shooting in manual with flash, the exposure meter on the camera always shows under exposed ". If you aren't in full manual you need to be! Your camera meter has nothing to do with an exposure with studio lights unless it's a TTL setup. Set your shutter speed to somewhere around 1/125 maybe 1/160 if there is a lot of ambient light in the room, I like to use f/8.0 as my go to aperture for the prime lens I use. Then meter your subjects face and adjust the output of your lights to get a reading of f/8.0 on your meter at the same shutter speed you set in your camera. That should give you a decent DOF on your subject, and have the background go darker. If you want the background lit, you need to add more lights not open up your aperture or increase the output of your two main lights.

If it reads 1/32 on the nose and 1/32+3 on the eyes

????????? do you mean f/32???? you lost me with 1/32. On my meter and I believe on yours the "+" refers to fractional increases in the f/stop. Look at your manual it should tell you what a "tick" is equal to.

I actually think this makes the woman look older. I'm assuming that's not the objective...

No I was in a hurry and working off your low resolution JPEG. The intent was to show you the effect of darkening the background and I pushed it to far.

 

[gossamer]

I do have two Flashpoint XPLOR 600s, so I'll read through and practice.

Use the instruction then for two lights, plus the reflector.

Okay, will do. This time I was only using one light. I don't think the house was big enough for two lights. I'm assuming that setup would typically be in a studio or outdoors?

Just so we're clear, you always leave your CAMERA in Auto WB. You use your shot with the target card to adjust the WB in "post processing" by sampling the target with the eye dropper tool, then synching all other images to this one. Unless your lighting changes substantially you really shouldn't have that much difference between locations in the same house with the same studio lights. When you go outside you will.

Yes, my camera is always in AutoWB. I've done that in post-processing, but have also used the custom WB option in the camera and directed it to the shot of the grey card.

The problem I was having was that my light meter said the image was properly exposed, but it was just too much light. Not the effect I wanted. I was stopped down to f2.8 to attempt to blur the background

Studio lighting is a little different then natural light, instead of blurring the background you want to expose for the subject, which in turn will take your background dark.

The photoshoot was more of a "Humans of NY" than a profile pic session.

"the other problem I was having (and have always had with flash) is that, when shooting in manual with flash, the exposure meter on the camera always shows under exposed ". If you aren't in full manual you need to be! Your camera meter has nothing to do with an exposure with studio lights unless it's a TTL setup.

Yes, I'm in full manual. That was the information I needed to know.

Set your shutter speed to somewhere around 1/125 maybe 1/160 if there is a lot of ambient light in the room, I like to use f/8.0 as my go to aperture for the prime lens I use. Then meter your subjects face and adjust the output of your lights to get a reading of f/8.0 on your meter at the same shutter speed you set in your camera.

Yes, I've set the shutter speed for 1/125th and metered on that, but I've used f/2.8 because I really like the shallow DOF.

That should give you a decent DOF on your subject, and have the background go darker. If you want the background lit, you need to add more lights not open up your aperture or increase the output of your two main lights.

I will still try that at f/8.0.

If it reads 1/32 on the nose and 1/32+3 on the eyes

????????? do you mean f/32???? you lost me with 1/32. On my meter and I believe on yours the "+" refers to fractional increases in the f/stop. Look at your manual it should tell you what a "tick" is equal to.

No, I mean 1:1/32 as it relates to the power of the flash and "+" refers to adding a third to the light power.

I actually think this makes the woman look older. I'm assuming that's not the objective...

No I was in a hurry and working off your low resolution JPEG. The intent was to show you the effect of darkening the background and I pushed it to far.

Ah, awesome, got it.

 

[Derrel]

My suggestions...first off, set the White Balance to either Daylight, or to Flash, or a Manual degrees Kelving setting like 5100 to 5500, depending on how you like your eggs cooked! (Wink!)

Set the camera to ISO 100 or 125 or 160 ISO if you have plenty of power. Set the camera to ISO 200,250,320,or 400 if you need to make "long throws" with the light from the flash, OR if you want to pick up brightness in the areas that are beyond the reach of the foregound flash.

Now...the camera's meter is wayyyy disconnected from the FLASH system! The ambient light and the flash are two different things.

In Manual mode, the Shutter speed controls the brightness of the ambient lighting: 1/6 second at f/8 will pick up some brighter background lights; bright, sun-lighted windows will likely need f/8 at 1/200 second at ISO 100 or so during the summer months....and even at 1/200 second at f/8 the windows behind the flash-lighted foreground areas **might look** too bright, which would necessitate a smaller f/stop, such as say, f/11 to f/13.

In Manual mode, YOU set the flash up power wise, aim it, and meter it with the flash meter; most people shoot flash-as-mainlight, which makes sense if that's what one wants; sometimes you want to mix flash + ambient light, which means one needs the right ISO, the right f/stop, and the right shutter speed for the ambient lighting.

I prefer WB to be set to Daylight, or to flash, or to a manualy-set degrees Kelvin setting, and not to AUTO WB. Why? Auto WB can yo-yo, or can pick up Flourescent indoor lights, and skew the colors...I prefer to have ONE, single, fixed WB on all the raws.

Shoot Manually-set Flash power levels, and with the camera in Manual exposure mode; this allows you to control the variables of ISO, shutter speed, and f/stop, as-needed.