Which camera should I go with?

[Dave Colangelo]

Generally speaking there is little practical difference between late all mechanical cameras and early electric shutter cameras. The big difference is that the introduction of electric shutters allowed for what is affectively Aperture Priority mode originally called "Auto". Most of the nikons people have listed here have electric shutters (including the FE and F3 I listed). These cameras offer full manually operation and include a decent built in meter as well as an "Auto" Mode.

In terms of reliability that depends how you look at it, I own a few of each and in practice a good example of either is a good camera. On electric cameras you tend to see corrosion, element degradation in the meter elements, burnt out LCD's and the such when it comes to what breaks. On the all mechanical devices you see timing drift, gummed oil, shredded gears, seized components and tired springs ultimately take them down. However, all mechanical cameras can often be serviced and brought back to life.

On the battery note early electric shutter cameras are barely dependent on them. I put a battery in my F3 2 years ago and its still churning just fine I also use it a fair bit. These cameras hardly chew batteries. Even all mechanical cameras may take a battery to operate the internal meter (if there is one). On that front many of these cameras take a type of 3V Mercury battery that is no longer in production and you may have issues getting the internal meter to work without it. There is lots out there on this topic. You may end up with a selenium cell meter which can drift over time so I don't always trust them. You can be completely battery free with a properly adjust mechanical camera and a known, good, selenium meter.

The important thing when buying any used camera is not how it looks but how it fires. A beat up body that was recently serviced is always a better choice than a pristine body thats been sitting in an Attic in a box for years. You need to check the lenses for dust, and more importantly fungus. Check the shutter for operation at slow speeds and high speeds that at least sound somewhat right.

Im seeing a lot of FE's available here in the states for <$150 and i would think you can find them where you are as well.

 

[Kramertron2000]

I decided to pass on the Ricoh, I just think if it ever did break it would be difficult to source parts or repair, and I could get a K1000 or spotmatic f with a lense for not much more and have access to basically unlimited parts/replacements.

Still keeping my eyes peeled for decent dSLRs too.

There is also a Nikon F60 (N60 in the USA) in one of the local second hand shops, which although fairly new for a film camera and has quite a few features, Iv heard is not all that good (and they look quite cheap and nasty), for $65au - cant remember if it has a lense or not, but Id say not for that price.

The problem here in Australia (and particularly the part I live in) is that sometimes there is nothing and sometimes there is lots, but most of the time unless you live in a big city (the nearest to me being 1300km away) you are often forced to buy online. Its the same with my other interest - guitars; the 2 shops in my city that sell guitars pretty much just have the standards (teles, strats, les paul etc), and you have to be at the right place at the right time to get a good second hand deal, or risk buying online. Things are also usually overpriced here too, especially once its labelled "vintage", even if it was crap in its day and worse now.

 

[jcdeboever]

The SP F is a fine camera. The problem with film cameras is getting one in good working order, new light seals, new mirror bumper, accurate or close shutter speeds. To bad your in Australia, I'm not sure who to recommend. Too bad your not in the US, I could definitely guide you better. I have a perfect working (new light seals, excellent shutter, working light meter) Spotmatic 1000 and 2 lenses (55mm and 200mm) that would fit your budget prior to shipping. I recently thought it was sold but the guy backed out.

 

[Kramertron2000]

Yea, Australia kind of sucks sometimes (but lets not go into that ). There are quite a few spotmatic bodies on ebay from japan that are quite cheap and have at least been checked and have descriptions of the condition and any faults. Lenses on the other hand arent too hard to come by from Australia, but for an old camera like that probably not locally.

One good thing we have here is good consumer protection laws, which means if an item isnt as described (even if its from overseas, but that would be hard to follow up), you are legally entitled to a refund, and sites like ebay, as well as banks, paypal etc. will also do refunds for items that arent as described then they chase up the seller to reimburse them.

Back on topic though, if I were to go for something like a spotmatic, what would a good general purpose lense be?

 

[compur]

I use D lenses on my FM2 and can use my G as well. Granted the G will only shoot wide open as I don't have the ability to change the aperture manually from the outside. Of course I may be miss-understanding what you are referring to

For some years after the introduction of AI lenses in 1977 Nikon bodies were made to be partially compatible with the older pre-AI lenses. So, some Nikon bodies made after 1977 have a tab on their lens mount that can be flipped up allowing the use of pre-AI lenses (in stop-down metering mode). The FM/FE and some other models made during this period have this feature but Nikon dropped it when they released the FM2/FE2/FA models warning that only AI or later lenses could be used with them.

 

[Gary A.]

Yea, Australia kind of sucks sometimes (but lets not go into that ). There are quite a few spotmatic bodies on ebay from japan that are quite cheap and have at least been checked and have descriptions of the condition and any faults. Lenses on the other hand arent too hard to come by from Australia, but for an old camera like that probably not locally.

One good thing we have here is good consumer protection laws, which means if an item isnt as described (even if its from overseas, but that would be hard to follow up), you are legally entitled to a refund, and sites like ebay, as well as banks, paypal etc. will also do refunds for items that arent as described then they chase up the seller to reimburse them.

Back on topic though, if I were to go for something like a spotmatic, what would a good general purpose lense be?

I have purchased a medium format film camera and quite a few lenses from Japan and they all were delivered promptly and as advertised. I think Japan is a good source for film stuff.

 

[SoulfulRecover]

I use D lenses on my FM2 and can use my G as well. Granted the G will only shoot wide open as I don't have the ability to change the aperture manually from the outside. Of course I may be miss-understanding what you are referring to

For some years after the introduction of AI lenses in 1977 Nikon bodies were made to be partially compatible with the older pre-AI lenses. So, some Nikon bodies made after 1977 have a tab on their lens mount that can be flipped up allowing the use of pre-AI lenses (in stop-down metering mode). The FM/FE and some other models made during this period have this feature but Nikon dropped it when they released the FM2/FE2/FA models warning that only AI or later lenses could be used with them.

Oh! ok I understand now. I was thinking about it backwards

 

[Kramertron2000]

Any last words before I take the plunge (not a huge plunge considering its only $50au) and buy a Spotmatic F body? Im going to get a lens later (itll take at least 2 weeks to get here anyway, and I need to get some practice in with a digital camera before I even start messing around too much with the film).

This is the one Im planning on getting:
Pentax Spotmatic SP F SPF 35mm SLR Film Camera Body Only SN4958172 | eBay

Next question is what my first lens should be. Something suitable for general purpose use (ie. Some close-up stuff but not really macro, people, scenery etc.)? Im thinking one of the takumar/pentax SMC 50mm lenses would be the way to go.

 

[jcdeboever]

Any last words before I take the plunge (not a huge plunge considering its only $50au) and buy a Spotmatic F body? Im going to get a lens later (itll take at least 2 weeks to get here anyway, and I need to get some practice in with a digital camera before I even start messing around too much with the film).

This is the one Im planning on getting:
Pentax Spotmatic SP F SPF 35mm SLR Film Camera Body Only SN4958172 | eBay

Next question is what my first lens should be. Something suitable for general purpose use (ie. Some close-up stuff but not really macro, people, scenery etc.)? Im thinking one of the takumar/pentax SMC 50mm lenses would be the way to go.

That camera looks good but you never know about shutter speeds and seals. Takumar 55 1.8 m42 is a good lens. looks like he has some of those.

 

[Kramertron2000]

Wow - I didnt even think to check the seller's other items even though they have dozens of spotmatics listed. They have a few Nikon's that are cheaper and have working light meters. Some of the Nikon lenses are cheaper than the Takumars too.

Some of their Nikkormat FTns look good. Im looking at this one:
Nikon Nikomat FTN 35mm SLR Film Camera Body Only SN4159685 | eBay
But there looks like there is some damage on the inside of where the lens mounts (picture 12), so maybe one of the other ones would be better.

The FTn looks like it has more features (and they all seem to have working light meters), but also look more complicated to use.

 

[Dave Colangelo]

Id go for the FTN. I have almost the identical one (mine is a Japanese import Nikkormat, same camera different text). They are solid as a brick, literally they are basically carved from a brick of aluminum and will survive just about anything (and mine has).

That meter does require the 3V battery which is easy to get but somewhat specific. I usually cary a new hand held meter around with my older stuff just to confirm, unless I can verify the internal meter across the range .

That camera uses the early lens/meter index couple (but its all F-Mount) you can find more info here. A great deal of the used lenses out there have the tabs but you should watch out when you are buying the lens to ensure they are there.

The damage looks like light corrosion, assuming its superficial you should be able to get it off gently with a Q-Tip. Even if you dont go for this one the FT is a great camera.

 

[Derrel]

The Nikomat (SIC) for $13.50 looks good. Nikkormat and Nikomat, same camera, different markets. Solid, great 1960's Japanese build quality; these have the shutter speed adjustment around the lens mount area, not on the top deck...an older idea that multiple manufacturers have used over the decades.

The 50mm f/2 Nikkor is a decent lens, available in various eras. The 50/1.4 is also decent. The 55mm f/3.5 pre-Ai Micro~Nikkor is a good but very inexpensive macro lens. There are a LOT of Nikon F-mount lenses available on the used market.

 

[Kramertron2000]

Awesome. I think Ill go for the Nikomat FTn then, one of the others at the same price without the corrosion (also without the shoe mount on the top, but I cant see myself using a flash or anything to begin with).

Thanks for the lens suggestions too Derrel. That seems to be one of the biggest advantages of going for Nikon over the Spotmatic - having so many options for lenses. The working light meter is also helpful.

 

[Kramertron2000]

So I did it - got one of the Nikomats. Now I just have to be patient and save to get a lens or 2. Thanks for the help guys. If anyone else can recommend some glass fire away.

 

[webestang64]

That Nikon should work great for you. I miss my F2 that got stolen I'm waiting for a nice to come into the shop.