Which camera should I go with?

Discussion in 'Film Discussion and Q & A' started by Kramertron2000, Jul 30, 2018.

  1. Kramertron2000

    Kramertron2000 TPF Noob!

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    Thanks for the tips.

    You're right - a good picture is a good picture.

    Id definitely like to have a go at processing my own pictures when I start using film. Having a chemistry background, I find the whole process fascinating. When I go back to uni I should also have access to a darkroom (a lot of the older biochemistry techniques that use x-ray and radiation, as well as stuff that uses fluorescence requires it for processing and visualization), so that will definitely help.

    To start with Ill probably just get it processed at my local camera store, but Im not sure how it will turn out.


     
  2. Kramertron2000

    Kramertron2000 TPF Noob!

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    So - update:

    Camera should be on its way. At the earliest it will be here at the end of the week, latest maybe end of next week or sometime the week after.

    I bought a Nikkor 50mm f/2 lens from Japan, which should arrive next week sometime or the week after (possibly another week after that depending on the mail - I was only able to get it shipped economy). I chose one of the later models with the rubber grippy bits mainly because they can focus an extra 12cm closer, which will be better for plant pictures.


    I think to start with Ill probably get a roll of black and white (probably something in the 200asa - TriX?) and a roll of colour (maybe just kodak gold 400 or 200 or something). For the B&W I was thinking of stand developing with coffee, mainly for the simplicity and because its forgiving (correct me if Im wrong here). I can get film developed and printed) by camera house, but they have to send it to Cairns (400km away) and it takes a week, costs $20au a roll and who knows if itll be any good. Ill probably get the colour roll developed that way until I get into doing it myself.

    I was also thinking about picking up a cheap scanner, mainly to do a quick check to see which ones are worth keeping and getting processed professionally.
     
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  3. john.margetts

    john.margetts No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    If you are starting out with developing film I would not use caffinol nor would I use stand development. Get yourself proficient with D76/ID11 as a developer using standard agitation. Once you are proficient with basic development, then try caffinol or try stand development - I would not try both together as you will have no way of knowing what is causing any of the problems you will get.
     
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  4. jcdeboever

    jcdeboever TPF Supporters Supporting Member

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    TriX or known as 400TX is 400 speed film.
     
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  5. Kramertron2000

    Kramertron2000 TPF Noob!

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    Thanks :)

    Im a bit confused with all the different films available (mainly because there are so many rather than what the are). Locally all I can get is Kodak colourmax 400, a 400asa fujifilm and TriX from what Iv seen. I had a look on ebay thisafternoon though and now my head is spinning with all the choices :drunken_smilie:

    No doubt my first couple of rolls will not be great, so there probably isnt much point in going for anything special - especially when I start attempting to develop it myself.
     
  6. Dave Colangelo

    Dave Colangelo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    As for black and white film and home processing.

    First forget brands for a minute and just consider film speeds for a second. You can get a wide variety of BW film from 50 speed all the way up through 3200 100 and 400 are good starting places. There are sill a variety of makers out there but Kodak and Ilford are the big kids on the block. Frankly it does not really matter which film you start with they are all pretty decent these days. Whats important is that you pick one film, and for the first few rolls, stick to it. Learn the film stock, what it does well and what it does not do well. Practically 100 or 400 speed is by far the most commonly used stocks (in my experience). Ilfords FP4 is a good place to start (125ISO) or HP5 in 400 speed, TriX is also a great stock and would be a solid start.

    As for home processing as others have mentioned cafinol is not the place to start its a bit inconsistent and harder to control than proper developer. Ill echo other sentiments that you should get comfortable with ID11 or some other standard chemistry. My personal advice is to buy the Ilford stuff, their documentation is VERY good and quite easy to follow. Its perhaps worthy of another thread but for home processing you will need the following,

    - Roll of Film (lets say FP4 125ISO)
    - Daylight Developing Tank (Paterson's are nice and easy to load and a good place to start)
    - Iford DDX (1+4 dilution)
    - Iford Stop Bath (you dont actually need this you can use a water bath. I it largely because their documentation calls for it and I get very good results with it).
    - Ilford Rapid Fixer (1+4 dilution)
    - Distilled Water (you can grab this at your local drug store usually by the gallon you can use tap water but it really depends on your local water. Where I live the water if very hard and can cause drying issues)
    - Completely Dark room (you will need this for loading the film into the tank. A closet with a good tight door will work. You can also get a changing bag but no need to spend the $10)

    You can get all of this stuff online delivered to your door. It ends up being far cheaper than a lab.

    Forget the scanner for now (unless you can find a dedicated film scanner locally). To scan film negatives you need a proper film scanner that has a back lighting unit. You really cant get substantial scans otherwise. You can digitize negatives with a digital camera, do a quick search there are lots of methods out there that are well documented, results vary.
     
  7. Kramertron2000

    Kramertron2000 TPF Noob!

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    Thanks for the suggestions. Ill probably just get whatever film I can get locally cheapest (still have a couple of places to check out that might carry some).

    Ill give developing myself a go as soon as possible because it should work out way quicker and cheaper. The only issue is temperature- I live in the tropics, and even in winter it rarely gets below 25°c during the day, and night temps at the moment (end of winter) are in the low 20s.

    I mentioned the scanner because I saw one at officeworks for like $60. Its a film scanner, but the reviews arent great, hence suggesting just getting it to check which shots are worth getting printed by someone else.
     
  8. Dave Colangelo

    Dave Colangelo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Check your local big box stores (here in the states thats Walmart, Target etc.) a lot of these places still cary film and its very good price wise if they have it. If they dont have it in stock see if they can order it for you, most stores like that in the sates will offer free in-store delivery if they dont have it on hand.

    Just use an ice bath, thats how most people do it any way (to keep proper temperature control). Again worthy of another thread (and I know there is a thread here somewhere on it) but you can use ice water to chill a container of developer down to temp then dunk the tank as needed to keep it cool.
     
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  9. Kramertron2000

    Kramertron2000 TPF Noob!

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    Yeah, Big W (our big box store) is the only one other than the camera chain-store Iv checked so far, but Id say Kmart and Target probably also carry film.

    I didnt even think of an ice bath to be honest (odd, because Im a biochemist and using one is fairly standard practice for a lot of what I do). Does going lower than 20°c matter?
     
  10. Dave Colangelo

    Dave Colangelo No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Ilford stuff (as thats what I know off hand) is processed at 68F (20C) and I have no trouble holding that with an ice bath even when my apartment is well above that in the summer. Ilford also offers temperature correction charts in their data sheets that are very accurate I have had lots of success processing anywhere from 68F to 78F, as long as you can hold that kind of range you should be ok.
     
  11. Kramertron2000

    Kramertron2000 TPF Noob!

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    Awesome. Good to know. Thanks
     
  12. Kramertron2000

    Kramertron2000 TPF Noob!

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    So my lens got here today (ahead of the camera for some reason even though I ordered it after the camera).

    Its in really good condition, but I realized as soon as I unwrapped it I made a silly mistake.

    Its a non-AI lens that doesnt have the little rabbit ears clippy thing to set the light meter :boxing:

    A bit annoying, but not a huge deal I guess - until I get a battery that will suit the camera and some o-rings I was just going to use the app on my phone for metering anyway. From what I understand though, I can still use stop-down metering too.

    Now I just want the camera to get here! I have the lens, and a roll each of Tri-X and fuji superia 400 ready to go.
     

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